MEBE007's 80 Regal Build Thread almost there

[pontiacgp]

If you need some help with the E curve let me know. Those instructions are hard to understand and this program is worth more than the 3.99 it costs..

http://www.cammhsm.com/MSD/index.html

 

[mebe007]

Thanks bud. Def need help. Have that program hasn't helped much yet lol

 

[pontiacgp]

the way the distributor works is you set the max advance you want then the dials limit the curve of the advance. I found it worked better not using the vacum advance. I ran the switches at 1 -3 with 34 max advance

 

[CruizinKev]

looks great!!!

 

[mebe007]

And I'm still not there. Life has gotten in the way. Still haven't sorted out the e curve. The brand new power steering pump went out along with the alternator. Awesomeness. However I'm finally getting back to work on it. However tone to change things again. I want fuel injection. Thinking fast ez efi however the ez efi intrigues me with its timing control. $330 extra for the distributor and I set idle and total it controls.curve. bye bye scratching my head over the recurve. So I dunno what I'm going to do here

 

[GBoDYon4s]

Nice work everything is looking Great

 

[mebe007]

ok so after beating my head into the wall repeatedly i have figured out my timing issue with the msd ecurve. I understood the principle of how it worked while trying to get it set. my issue ended up being my msd 6al box and my digital timing light. see i got my 6al box used without instruction ( the part where it says use a standard inductive timing light)therefore i followed the instruction on wiring the 6al with the ecurve per the ecurves diagram. long story short i just couldnt get the timing right lol. so started over today. locked it out, got it running set the initial to 34deg at idle using my old fashioned timing light and not my fancy profession digial light with all the gizmos. set it on a 15deg curve all in by 3k 0-6 and have 19 initial. motor seems to run cool, smooth and well. did not hook up vac advance yet. also tried it with a 20 deg all in by 3k and i had less manifold vacuum so im figuring it likes 19 initial better.

so i tinkered with the carb a ad to get the best vacuum reading i could. i dont feel like messing with it too much since im going to be ordering my fuel injection here soon before i get her on the road. so look for an edelbrock 750 to be hitting the classifieds section.

on to the next part. i plan on ordering the fast ez efi 2.0. i will most likely go with the in tank setup. now its kind of funny because as i just about finished making up my mind i get my ecurve working how it should. the nice thing about the fast ez efi 2.0 setup is it has the ability to control timing. im debating spending the extra $300 on their dual syn dist and having everything work together. now i would still tell it initial and total like i do with the ecurve but it has more range instead only being able to get incriments of 10,15,20,25 etc based on total i can set more variations in timing with the computer setup. then the computer decides how much advance it needs when instead of trail and error of different curves. kind of a neat setup imho.

however i can keep my ecurve and have a total msd ignition system and keep it separate from the fuel injection. this may make trouble shooting down the road simpler if i were to lose spark. however it seems that letting the computer do what it needs to do witht he timing would give better performance. what are peoples opinions here? so based on what i am currently thinking unless i change my mind there will also be a very nice msd ecurve hitting the classifieds as well.

at this point im glad to have sorted out some gremlins and be making progress yet again. now that the engine is running decent i hear some noise once she warms up. its kind of a rrrrrring sound. i think its coming from the valve train. the engine has a little run time on it now ( no miles) so im thinking it may just be in need of another valvetrain adjustment. at least i hope thats all it is. i havent had the best of luck with things so far so hopefully it is that simple. ive also never run full roller rockers until this so maybe they are a little noisier. anyways always open to input.

now to prepare for fuel injuction. i need to find a spark plug that works with my heads that is a resistor plug. they are the 14mm thread i believe .750 reach. i also need the plug to be relatively short for clearance with the headers. the manufacturer of my heads (profiler) recommends using NGK R5671A-7 or colder plugs. That is what is in the motor now. so thats my starting point but need something in a resistor plug to cut down on the rf noise so i have no issues with the fuel injection.

lets here it guys anyone have a clue?

 

[565bbchevy]

the manufacturer of my heads (profiler) recommends using NGK R5671A-7 or colder plugs. That is what is in the motor now. so thats my starting point but need something in a resistor plug to cut down on the rf noise so i have no issues with the fuel injection.
lets here it guys anyone have a clue?

The R in your spark plug # I am pretty sure stands for resister, the 7 is the heat range going higher is colder, lower hotter.

As far as your current distributor/MSD set up I would say run it for the time being when you get your new EFI you can always change it
later to work with the computer when you have the extra money and I would spend it first on a good in tank fuel system first that will work
with your new set up.

 

[mebe007]

thanks bud, but ngk states it is a non resistor plug and the r means race. im really debating using my msd system as its already hooked up so therefore less work as its already done. it seems the fast controls timing almost the same way i just dont have to get out of the car lol. i could always add later as you mention

i guess this may help lol
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/docs/RacingSpecs2013.pdf

 

[pontiacgp]

I set my e curve up without the box connected and then connected the box. I set it up to reach full advance by 2500 and I left the connection in place for the e curve in case the box failed so when it does I can just plug in the e curve and carry on. For the plugs it makes no difference to performance if it's a resistor plug but it can cause issues if it isn't

Q: When should I use a resistor spark plug?

A: NGK "R" or resistor spark plugs use a 5k ohm ceramic resistor in the spark plug to suppress ignition noise generated during sparking.

NGK strongly recommends using resistor spark plugs in any vehicle that uses on-board computer systems to monitor or control engine performance. This is because resistor spark plugs reduce electromagnetic interference with on-board electronics.

They are also recommended on any vehicle that has other on-board electronic systems such as engine-management computers, two-way radios, GPS systems, depth finders or whenever recommended by the manufacturer.

In fact, using a non-resistor plug in certain applications can actually cause the engine to suffer undesirable side effects such as an erratic idle, high-rpm misfire, engine run-on, power drop off at certain rpm levels and abnormal combustion.