Motor wont run unless timming is advanced help!

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Yes I do have a lighf and I just changed the balancer before the plugs it was wobbling pretty good
 
I would be willing go bet that the distributor was removed an put back a couple of teeth off of center. It happens all the time.
The gears are helical (angle and curve cut) not vertical and stabbing the distributor can be difficult to get right. A lot of times, you actually have to start stabbing with the rotor either before or after where you want it to end up. Sounds to me like your distributor is in a tooth before where it should be. This makes the initial timing way too retarded.
I'm pretty sure the dirty plug on 7 is a different issue.
I suggest marking the lip of the distributor with where the rotor points at No1, pulling the distributor just enough to clear the cam gear and swing the rotor in the retarded direction and stab it again. If the rotor is advanced (after) the mark you made, you may have solved you problem.
 
I would be willing go bet that the distributor was removed an put back a couple of teeth off of center. It happens all the time.
The gears are helical (angle and curve cut) not vertical and stabbing the distributor can be difficult to get right. A lot of times, you actually have to start stabbing with the rotor either before or after where you want it to end up. Sounds to me like your distributor is in a tooth before where it should be. This makes the initial timing way too retarded.
I'm pretty sure the dirty plug on 7 is a different issue.
I suggest marking the lip of the distributor with where the rotor points at No1, pulling the distributor just enough to clear the cam gear and swing the rotor in the retarded direction and stab it again. If the rotor is advanced (after) the mark you made, you may have solved you problem.
I made a couple of corrections to the original post. Your rotor should be advanced from the original position after you re-stab it.
 
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Timing chain might be loose and jumped time? If you can rock the damper back and forth with the dist. cap off you can see if there is a lot of movement in the crank versus the distributor.
 
the more I advance it the better it runs but no more room to turn the cap and it shouldn't be that advanced anyway
Removing the distributor and changing the position of the rotor will not change how much advance it needs to run good it only gives you more room for adjustment.
 
Timing chain might be loose and jumped time?
I don't know what years GM put them on but some original timing chains came with nylon teeth and would wear down to nothing.
 
I actually did play with the damper today with the cap off not a lot of movement from either one. And I'll try the distributor in the morning its about to rain ,but one slot on the distributor would throw it off that much?
 
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