Thanks for the info Jeremy. Its good to get a positive review about those calipers. Did you get them from the States, or did you deal with a supplier in Canada?
My daily driver project 81 ElCamino
- Thread starter HAFROD
- Start date
BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL. Thru 12/2 Everything (Including Calendars!!) in the shop is 20% off. use code BLACKFRIDAY24.
- Status
Funny that I got them for free from a friend who was clearing out his garage I will get a part number later tonight
there is more to consider than thinking bigger is better. Here is some good info I found when I was looking improving my brakes with the F body spindle and rotors up front. . I ended up leaving the stock calipers and using EBC yellow pads.
"First of all, you'll have to figure what your own pedal ratio is. A higher numeric ratio - 4:1 versus 3:1 for example - will result in more input force at the Master Cylinder for a given amount of force against the brake pedal.
Since there are so many possibilities, I won't even go there, but here's some Master Cylinder info.
Master cylinder size - piston area in square inches - pressure developed from 100 pounds of input force at the MC piston (not on the brake pedal).
3/4" - .441 Sq. In. - 226.757 p.s.i.
7/8" - .601 Sq. In. - 166.384 p.s.i.
1" - .785 Sq. In. - 127.388 p.s.i.
Now, here is the actual force output of the different calipers resulting from 100 pounds of force input at the MC piston. It is often called "mechanical advantage" when discussing hydraulics.
2-15/16 caliper (6.777 Sq. In.)
3/4" MC = 1536.372 lbs.
7/8" MC = 1127.734 lbs.
1" MC = 863.308 lbs.
2-3/4" caliper (5.939 Sq. In.)
3/4" MC = 1346.710 lbs.
7/8" MC = 988.184 lbs.
1" MC = 756.557 lbs.
2-1/2" caliper (4.908 Sq. In.)
3/4" MC = 1112.923 lbs.
7/8" MC = 816.637 lbs.
1" MC = 625.220 lbs.
A 2-1/2-inch caliper actually puts out MORE braking force with a 3/4-inch Master Cylinder than a 2-15/16-inch caliper does with a 1" Master, and nearly as much as a 2-15/16-inch caliper driven by a 7/8-inch Master.
So, you see, it is actually possible to INCREASE braking force using smaller calipers. "
"First of all, you'll have to figure what your own pedal ratio is. A higher numeric ratio - 4:1 versus 3:1 for example - will result in more input force at the Master Cylinder for a given amount of force against the brake pedal.
Since there are so many possibilities, I won't even go there, but here's some Master Cylinder info.
Master cylinder size - piston area in square inches - pressure developed from 100 pounds of input force at the MC piston (not on the brake pedal).
3/4" - .441 Sq. In. - 226.757 p.s.i.
7/8" - .601 Sq. In. - 166.384 p.s.i.
1" - .785 Sq. In. - 127.388 p.s.i.
Now, here is the actual force output of the different calipers resulting from 100 pounds of force input at the MC piston. It is often called "mechanical advantage" when discussing hydraulics.
2-15/16 caliper (6.777 Sq. In.)
3/4" MC = 1536.372 lbs.
7/8" MC = 1127.734 lbs.
1" MC = 863.308 lbs.
2-3/4" caliper (5.939 Sq. In.)
3/4" MC = 1346.710 lbs.
7/8" MC = 988.184 lbs.
1" MC = 756.557 lbs.
2-1/2" caliper (4.908 Sq. In.)
3/4" MC = 1112.923 lbs.
7/8" MC = 816.637 lbs.
1" MC = 625.220 lbs.
A 2-1/2-inch caliper actually puts out MORE braking force with a 3/4-inch Master Cylinder than a 2-15/16-inch caliper does with a 1" Master, and nearly as much as a 2-15/16-inch caliper driven by a 7/8-inch Master.
So, you see, it is actually possible to INCREASE braking force using smaller calipers. "
I fixed the thing that's been nothing but an irritation since I've been driving this car. The tail pipe hangers were not even on the dual tips and the hangers rubber was dried out and hard making it clunk and rattle. I cut them suckers off and made my own out of L brackets, 5/16 bolts/nuts, and a rubber isolator. I drilled holes in the bumper reinforcement and bolted the hangers to it. I had to remove the tail lights to do this. I then welded the bracket to the tips. While my old tail lights were out, I replaced them with better ones I got from Showtime. Now my tail lights are more bright and fresh looking. No more clunking and rattles. This took about an hour and was well worth catching my sweat shirt on fire while welding. Lol True story!
So I had dug through all my spare small block cylinder heads and found 2 sets of 882s. I have one set that I do not remember where or when I got them. They were fresh from a machine shop but never put on. I removed them from the plastic today to find them bad surface rusted. I removed the valves and have them ready to take to my usual machine shop. I just noticed the rocker arm studs have been drilled and pinned. One has been ported on the intake side but the other not. After removing the valves it looks like someone might have used a Dremel and just cleaned it up cause its not any bigger than the other untouched one. Its untouched under the valve so I think someone started on them but only halfassed one. I'm going to do a really nice clean up and blend job. I need to get my spare mock up 350 removed from my 55 and stripped down so I can get that sleeve replaced. Its in the 30s out there right now so maybe I'll get a warmer day in the next week
Found a standard bore 350 block for $50 so I'm going to use the cracked cylinder walled 350s internals. While I was there getting the block, I spotted a complete turbo 350 short tail trans. I got it for $25. This is the first load in the ElCamino. I had bought a B&M Transpac shift kit for the 350 trans in the El Camino but I'm just going to take the $25 trans to get it rebuilt. I'll Transpac it when I get it back from trans shop. I hurt my back AGAIN unloading the parts by myself. I'm waiting on the guy to text me back about that Turbo Buick Century aeroback. Today is supposed to be the day I may own it. The wife sure is gonna be pissed but she won't find out till its here. Lol. The place I work also has a mini storage lot so I can put it there.
My parents just recently moved and we had lived there since 1980. I have/had tons of G body parts there. I made a run there today which is about an hour drive. I had a complete 700R4 there from a friends truck. After I loaded it in my ElCamino, I dug around. Found VERY nice left and right doors for 81-88 Monte. No rust and no dents. One has an aero mirror so I'll put it on my Camino. I found another aero mirror for the other side in my shed. Both are cable remotes. When I lifted up a hood, I found my missing Grand National front sway bar. I knew I had one but thought I lost it. I had taken it off my 87 GN in about 1998 to go drag racing and never put it back on. Found some misc interior plastic trim parts and loaded them up too. I've been looking for a used and abused 87-88 SS Monte Carlo to build. At least I'll have a door if I need it. I thought about craigslisting the doors but I just might need them one day ya know.
- Status
BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL. Thru 12/2 Everything (Including Calendars!!) in the shop is 20% off. use code BLACKFRIDAY24.
Similar threads
