My daily driver project 81 ElCamino

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When torquing head bolts keep going through the sequence until every bolt stops turning. It usually takes 4 or 5 times with aluminum heads and 2 or 3 times with steel heads. Then wait about an hour and recheck them. If they move after an hour, then lather , rinse, repeat. Don't condemn your torque wrench yet, especially if your using composite head gaskets.

To check your torque wrench against another torque a nut onto bolt in a vice and then use the 2nd wrench and check at the same torque (assuming it clicks with no movement), then take the nut 5 lbs tighter and make sure the nut moves before clicking. I'll bet you're using composite head gaskets. They need retorquing after sitting and again after a heat cycle every time. If your surfaces are perfect and your compression is not too high then you can get away with a single torquing, but rechecking is ultra critical to me.

Good luck - Jim
 
I have fought this new motor all day. Went out this morning and made sure the silicone on intake ends were dry. Tried to start and it was not even trying to fire. The 3 prong plug from distributor that connects to distributor cap had a spade pushed out the bottom. Got that fixed. Tried to start it and it popped through the carb. Had it 180 out. Reset dizzy and it fired off. Was running rough though. Put it in reverse and could hear the flexplate hitting the starter gear. I put on a Summit high torque mini starter. I installed the extra spacers but it is still hitting. Removed it and put the stock starter back on. Noticed I was almost out of gas so went to my local gas station which is just beside my housing addition. Came back home and noticed front seal was leaking BAD. Also had oil leak at rear side of engine dripping down onto starter. I removed the belts, pulley and balancer. When I removed the front seal it was effortless. This was a cheapie chrome Proform timing cover from Auto Zone. It already had a seal installed. I tried to put in a new front seal but you could push it all the way in by hand and it would just fall back out. So the big thrash began. I removed the starter AGAIN, pan bolts, alternator bracket, power steering pump, water pump, and timing cover. The timing cover went straight in the trash. I had a cast aluminum timing cover new in package but it was for my 55. I installed the seal and cleaned the block up. Installed the new timing cover and a new Felpro one piece oil pan gasket. Got it all buttoned back up and restarted it. Still had a miss. I checked my plug wires and had #6 and #8 plug wires crossed. Started it back up and now had that nice lopey idle I was looking for. Took it a few miles down some side roads (40 MPH) and came back home. Noticed the oil is dripping from the bottom of the starter still but the oil pan is dry. Back of intake feels dry. Decided to clean up my driveway mess and try again tomorrow.
 
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Sounds like a normal day with a sbc build up. Went through similar issues thursday with mine. Keep truckin'!
 
Had some issues with some brand new parts. The Proform slant edge valve covers don't have a baffle. Its more like a splash shield. My PCV literally sucked oil into the cylinder. The Edelbrock RPM air gap is badly warped and its brand new from Summit. It is not sealing the side intake gaskets on bottom. The side intake gaskets are wet with oil. I never silicone the sides, only the ends. I was thinking these 882 heads may have been shaved/milled but I removed my intake on the old motor and checked both with a small angle finder. Both engines are the same angle on head to block. When I started checking the sides of the intake, that's when I noticed the inconsistencies. I have put together loads of small blocks and they're all I know. This is the first intake issue I've ever had. The car has had a miss and ran horribly. I've drove it to and from work all week and it has gotten worse. I'm going to put on the performer RPM from the old motor tomorrow. I removed the aluminum roller rockers and put on stock rockers. Going to put on stock style short valve covers with correct baffle for PCV and actually be able to put on my old AC belt. The tall valve covers would not let me put on my AC compressor.
 
I slowed down a little and did some cleaning and detailing under the hood. I blasted all my brackets and headers and painted them. I routed some hoses and wiring a little better and replaced some cracked factory wire loom with new. Replaced a lot of hardware with stainless ARP bolts and some stainless nuts/washers. Made a nice improvement in the looks department. Tomorrow I'm going to bend up a new pump to carb hard line. It was missing a firewall to engine ground strap and I found one in my spare wiring tote. Cleaned it up and installed it. I put on the Performer RPM intake and short baffled Edelbrock steel valve covers from the old motor. I'll post a pic tomorrow evening when it's all back together.
 
So I got up early and drove my wifes car to my transmission builder. I picked up my spare turbo 350 I had him rebuild. I just finished installing the B&M Transpac. Came in for a pepsi and a snack then going back out to start getting motor and trans ready to pull. Hopefully have it finished by Sunday. I forgot about how muddy the old motors coolant was so going to remove freeze plugs and pressure wash up in there. Don't want any muddy crap getting in my new aluminum radiator. I bought 2 gallons of antifreeze and three gallons of distilled water to put in it. This whole engine swap has wore me and my wallet out. I've done a lot of small block Chevys and this one has been the biggest pain in the *ss. The lesson I learned on this one is, no more craigslist used heads. Going to buy new from now on.
 
Man your luck has been awful! I've had similar stuff happen on a 350 many moons ago. I hope you can get something going right.
 
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BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL. Thru 12/2 Everything (Including Calendars!!) in the shop is 20% off. use code BLACKFRIDAY24.

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