After the regal post, I was concerned when I seen this thread updated!
False alarm!
My Dodge Truck Project (Cummins Inside)
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After the regal post, I was concerned when I seen this thread updated!
False alarm!
Fortunately this one is hanging around. It runs and drives and could even be called "reliable". That makes it worth keeping around. Plus it can run on used motor oil and French fry grease in case an apocalypse happens.
Parts (and magnets, can't forget the magnets) have been funneling in from Rockauto the past few days. I thought I was gonna be slick and replace the spring shackle without taking the bed off- wrong! No way I would've gotten it with the bed on. Fortunately the bed was easy to remove. 8 bolts, a couple wires and the filler neck and I slid it right back. Wound up being a good thing because it made the other jobs a lot easier.
I also replaced the rear sway bar end links which were totally shot. They should've been an easy job, except that the ball stud end was seized solid into the sway bar itself. Had to heat them up cherry red and air hammer them out. Probably wasn't great for the temper of the sway bar but I didn't see another good option. And then on the drivers side I had to drop the fuel tank to get the upper bolt out all the way. I got away with loosening just the rear tank strap and lowering the back half. Not difficult with the bed off.
I got four new shocks front and rear. The ones I removed had 1996 stamped on them so I'd assume they were original. They were shot, no pressure in them at all. New ones are Gabriel Ultras. They weren't the cheapest ones but not the most expensive ones either. Either way they should be a huge improvement.
And I replaced the front right tie rod. Wound up being the easiest job of everything. New one is a Moog, fit was perfect and I got the alignment close enough for now.
There is one brake line I'd like to replace in part or whole before putting the bed back on, it's very scaly. Other than that, the bed is ready to go back on and it should be ready for inspection.
I also replaced the rear sway bar end links which were totally shot. They should've been an easy job, except that the ball stud end was seized solid into the sway bar itself. Had to heat them up cherry red and air hammer them out. Probably wasn't great for the temper of the sway bar but I didn't see another good option. And then on the drivers side I had to drop the fuel tank to get the upper bolt out all the way. I got away with loosening just the rear tank strap and lowering the back half. Not difficult with the bed off.
I got four new shocks front and rear. The ones I removed had 1996 stamped on them so I'd assume they were original. They were shot, no pressure in them at all. New ones are Gabriel Ultras. They weren't the cheapest ones but not the most expensive ones either. Either way they should be a huge improvement.
And I replaced the front right tie rod. Wound up being the easiest job of everything. New one is a Moog, fit was perfect and I got the alignment close enough for now.
There is one brake line I'd like to replace in part or whole before putting the bed back on, it's very scaly. Other than that, the bed is ready to go back on and it should be ready for inspection.
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So you're not abandoning this one too?
I had Gabriels on another truck, I'd buy 'em again.
I had Gabriels on another truck, I'd buy 'em again.
Any plan to degrease and repaint that frame while it's stripped down anyways?
Nope, hanging on to this one. I had Monroes on my old F150. They were fine I guess. The Gabriels were cheaper for this and reviews were comparable to the Monroes.
I did spray it down with Simple Green and pressure washed it. Someone at some point brushed what looks like rusty metal primer all over it. I was thinking about buying a couple really cheap black spray cans and quickly going over it if I have time.
Buy a gallon of Rustoleum - it works very well for the price over wire wheeled rust. Brush it, don't try spraying (that went poorly for me)
discounttoday.net
this was what I used. I was shocked at the coverage, durability and price.
Rust-Oleum Professional Flat Black Interior/Exterior Oil-based Industrial Enamel Paint (1-Gallon) | Discounttoday.net
About this item The product is Gallon, Flat Black, Enamel, Long Lasting Durability, Corrosion & Chip Resistant Elegant and smooth finish The product is manufactured in United States Professional Gallon Flat Black Enamel Maximum strength rust inhibitive primer suitable for consumer or commercial...
discounttoday.net
this was what I used. I was shocked at the coverage, durability and price.
Not knowing where you’re at (living wise) my brother has many a dodge parts rigs. He got 879,000 miles before “retiring “ his first 98’ or 99’ dodge dually Cummins 12V. The seats are one of his big things he wears out. (Even on his newest one 2014). Normal dodge seat issue is the left side cushion. You’re already up on most of the things. Watch for where they rivet the two main frame sections together. It collects sand and water that will rust them in that spot. Oil coating the frame helps A LOT! NH salts their roads.
Believe me, these days I get time crunch better than I ever have before. Spend too much money making up for it too.
That said, I'd try to make time for it. truck is already blown apart and in the long run, you'd be glad it got it done. Probably an extra couple hours to power wash the heck out of it then dry, maybe blow any crevices or seams with compressed air.
Even if it's still not fully dry when the bed goes on you're ahead of having not done it at all.
Oh yah, if you hate the sway bar connectors , look for a set for a lift kit. Had them on my 4x4. It gets rid of the swivel part and you can use a GM link system. Never went bad on me again. Put 100,000+ miles on them and I don’t think the new owner will have to do them 😏
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