Nail in the coffin

do you think 3500 is a fair price

  • Yes

    Votes: 2 18.2%
  • No

    Votes: 9 81.8%

  • Total voters
    11
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yes that is the rear flex line you need....and then of course you'll need the metal brake lines. If you are replacing the whole line make sure you do not lose the fitting that goes into the proportioning valve. It's for the 1/4" line and I don't know where to buy that fitting.
 
yes that is the rear flex line you need....and then of course you'll need the metal brake lines
Ok so for the rears this is my "rebuild" kit :brake line flare tool with 1/4 and 3/16 adapters, 3/16 line nuts, 1/4 brake nuts, center rear flex hose, 1/4 line, and 3/16 line. i think thats all i need for the lines right? and for the rear drums, ill just wait to order the springs and shoes because it might be a week or so.
 
yes that is the rear flex line you need....and then of course you'll need the metal brake lines. If you are replacing the whole line make sure you do not lose the fitting that goes into the proportioning valve. It's for the 1/4" line and I don't know where to buy that fitting.
oh i already welded the back of that fitting, i believe its just called 9/16 (for the wrench that fits on) and 1/4 tube
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U1MW13Q/?tag=gbody-20
 
ok guys well i honestly dont know where to go from here, i went to replace my brake lines, first off i was going to put the other flare on the 1/4 line, nope apparently my tool cant grip the coated line too well, i scraped off the lines and overtightened the heck out of my tool, i even scored where it was gripping to and my tool just pushed it out the other end. i decided to go to advanced auto, i asked for non coated brake line, he said he had some in 25ft roll, at this point i was desperate so i just said yes. he went to the back to get it and apparently they ran out. i went to oreilly and asked for non coated brake line, the worker (kid) i guess didnt know what non coated brake line was because he brought me out the exact same thing i had in my hand. i went back out to just work on the 3/16 line and decided it would be good to take out all of the old line first. so knowing i didnt have a line wrench i cut the line so i could use a good 6 point socket on it, bad idea because it stripped anyways. i was using my good old hammer and chisel technique for hours but that never worked. i was going to just take off the brake drum but the bolt holding it in would not budge, i used a breaker bar, liquid wrench and a propane torch on that and NOTHING worked. i give up for the day if any of you know how to get out something in that hard of a location that is stripped- let me know. plus the bleeder is literally covered in rust i cant even get a socket on it so i really dont know what i can do about this.
 
So the car has no brakes now?
 
easiest thing would be to change the wheel cylinder, they should be under $15 each. To make it easier on you you could measure the lines from the T to the wheel cylinders and buy ready made lines the length you need them....the retaining ring for the wheel cylinder is tricky to get in place but this video shows a nice way to do it....

 
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I believe it!!!! :banana:
 
so the wheel cylinder would basically remove the bleeder and brake line nut? id also have to get off the massive bolt that holds the wheel cylinder on. also im doing basically like a 1/4 brake line reducer so basically i have a really short 1/4 line and i tuck the center brake hose between the frame and body. i have 3/16 and my flare tool does 3/16 good.
 
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