Need a little help with my gauges
- Thread starter bazthespazz
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Going out on a ledge here. While you had the gauge pod out and cleaned the circuit board did you do a voltage check or at least a continuity check on the wires at the harmonic clip? I do not know how far the paint and body people disassembled your car but I had an issue when I changed my 79 to gauges in that the temp gauge would not read. I had ground, 12 volts , but the feed from the sending unit to the firewall bulkhead was pinched and broken when the previous owner had the left inner fender out. Start with the basics. as far as removing the metal clips from the back of the pod, I use a thin tape wrapped screw driver to gently lift one side of the clip while pushing it through from the other side. I've done 4 dashes and so far they all have worked. That black green and red wire set is also used with the cruise control system.
I'm the one that stripped it down and I pulled both bumpers, all the window trim and door sweeps. That's as far as I went. Everything was working when I dropped it off. I didn't do a continuity check when I had the pod out, I wish I would have thought about that. Can anybody tell me which wires in the dash connector are ground, continuous 12 Volt and which go to each gauge? As I mentioned at the beginning, the clock and all the dash lights worked. While I had the pod out I swapped the factory clock out for a Tic-Toc-Tac and now the clock isn't even working.
I copied this from another site and have found it quite useful. Gives all the pin locations and wire colors. May be worth re-pulling the pod and look for the corner of the printed circuit for a fold over. (Been there, Done that) While you have it out check the printed circuit with an ohm meter for any breaks.
Thanks, this will definitely help. Is there a connector where the wiring harness plugs in to the firewall?
Could that be a likely spot for a loose connection? Is the back of the gauge pod supposed to have a hole in it with sides where the dash plugs inserts and makes contact with the printed circuit? Mine has a recess that's not very deep and it has a bottom to it so the contacts on the printed circuit kind of fold over the sides then make another fold and sit flat against the back of that recess.
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OK, today I got a chance to pull my dash pod again and check my connections. Using the diagrams some of you supplied, I found that the Black/Pink, number 16 on the cluster connector, shows no power when the key is on. Also, no power at the "Gauge" fuse with the key on. What's my next step? Can I jump another wire from the fuse box to power my gauges?
I wish I had something positive to say. I will say this I had mine out a 1/2 dz times it bounced from one thing working and not another and vise versa bought new circuit board ,adjusted clips checked printed circuit I finally said f@%k it.
settled with everything working except the blinker lights not working at the cluster but working at the outside bulbs .
Checked grounds replaced bulbs I was starting to wear out the mounting tabs. I tried styrofoam under circuit printer for better contact nothing.checked the connections nothing!
Good luck hope you figure it out..
settled with everything working except the blinker lights not working at the cluster but working at the outside bulbs .
Checked grounds replaced bulbs I was starting to wear out the mounting tabs. I tried styrofoam under circuit printer for better contact nothing.checked the connections nothing!
Good luck hope you figure it out..
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Been there, done that. I've had it out 3 times now. While I had it out I installed a Tic-Toc-Tach, which works, and upgraded my dash lights to LED's. When I got it back together, the lights behind the Speedo don't work now. Still no gauges.
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