I just ordered my skylark frame mounts for buick 455 engine swap for my 1985 buick regal. I want to this swap as easy as possible and with the help some you all expertise someone who has been there and done it before. I was wondering which holes in the frame do I use to mount the frame mounts. A diagram woukd be great. I appreciate all help I can get.
(Need Help)1985 Buick Regal 455 frame mount holes
- Thread starter 1FastWh1
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you can't use the holes...
from another forum
The engine mounts must be set in yourself, the goal is to get the engine level and centered relative to the drivetrain of the car. The first step is to get the car up on 4 jackstands. It doesn't need to be perfectly level, but it does need all 4 wheels up off the ground. Next, make some centering and levelling measurements:
Run a string from the center of the driveshaft mount on the diff to the midpoint of the front crossmember. Check the center by measuring at various points along the C-channel and frame. Measure carefully, because 1/8" off center here means you're going to have driveline vibrations. You really should have your transmission crossmember centered already for this to work, a G-force is ideal, but at the minimum make sure its mounting holes are well centered in the frame.
Next, place a level on top of the front frame rails and take a reading. In my case I read 1/4 bubble left. Confirm this reading by tanking ANOTHER measurement at the rear of the front frame rails (where the C-channel starts).
OK, we now know where the centerline of the car is, and we know what the level of the frame is.... now do a test fit! Bolt the engine mounts and frame pads to the engine and drop it in, you can "eyeball" the rough fit, checking that it will not hit the firewall, the dreaded heaterbox, and you'll still have enough room to get the oil filter off up front. Try and set the engine back as far as possible for performance and stability.
Now for the fine tuning. you'll have to pick the engine up a bit and try to slide it 1/4-1/16 around. Tape a straightedge to the harmonic balancer, centered and hanging down enough that you can see the straightedge and the string we tied up earlier. Next, place a level on the carb mount on the intake right to left, just like it was sitting on the frame before. Your goal is now to get the level to read the same as it did on the frame earlier, and to have the straightedge and the string line up. Once that is done, check that the entire driveline follows your centering string, harmonic balancer, transmission mount point, driveshaft, and diff.
That's it! The engine should now be levelled right to left and centered in the frame. You've just done pretty much what the engineers at the factory did, with home materials.
Now just mark the pads: Get out some spray paint and coat all around the frame pads. Pull the engine/transmission and you'll see a perfect negative of the pads to give you a pattern to drill out. Drill the holes a touch large, you'll tend to be slightly off when you put everything back in. Also, it's a good idea to leave the pad bolts a bit loose since you'll want to fine tune the fit again once you get the engine/transmission back in.
from another forum
The engine mounts must be set in yourself, the goal is to get the engine level and centered relative to the drivetrain of the car. The first step is to get the car up on 4 jackstands. It doesn't need to be perfectly level, but it does need all 4 wheels up off the ground. Next, make some centering and levelling measurements:
Run a string from the center of the driveshaft mount on the diff to the midpoint of the front crossmember. Check the center by measuring at various points along the C-channel and frame. Measure carefully, because 1/8" off center here means you're going to have driveline vibrations. You really should have your transmission crossmember centered already for this to work, a G-force is ideal, but at the minimum make sure its mounting holes are well centered in the frame.
Next, place a level on top of the front frame rails and take a reading. In my case I read 1/4 bubble left. Confirm this reading by tanking ANOTHER measurement at the rear of the front frame rails (where the C-channel starts).
OK, we now know where the centerline of the car is, and we know what the level of the frame is.... now do a test fit! Bolt the engine mounts and frame pads to the engine and drop it in, you can "eyeball" the rough fit, checking that it will not hit the firewall, the dreaded heaterbox, and you'll still have enough room to get the oil filter off up front. Try and set the engine back as far as possible for performance and stability.
Now for the fine tuning. you'll have to pick the engine up a bit and try to slide it 1/4-1/16 around. Tape a straightedge to the harmonic balancer, centered and hanging down enough that you can see the straightedge and the string we tied up earlier. Next, place a level on the carb mount on the intake right to left, just like it was sitting on the frame before. Your goal is now to get the level to read the same as it did on the frame earlier, and to have the straightedge and the string line up. Once that is done, check that the entire driveline follows your centering string, harmonic balancer, transmission mount point, driveshaft, and diff.
That's it! The engine should now be levelled right to left and centered in the frame. You've just done pretty much what the engineers at the factory did, with home materials.
Now just mark the pads: Get out some spray paint and coat all around the frame pads. Pull the engine/transmission and you'll see a perfect negative of the pads to give you a pattern to drill out. Drill the holes a touch large, you'll tend to be slightly off when you put everything back in. Also, it's a good idea to leave the pad bolts a bit loose since you'll want to fine tune the fit again once you get the engine/transmission back in.
On the frame of my buick regal has several other holes already in the frame, so you are telling me none of these can be used to mount frame pads for a buick 455. I'm just trying to get an understanding because others are telling me you can I'm just trying to find out if this is possible which holes to use. I have heard of the string method but that was for the ones that was not equipped with the additional holes to my knowledge. But then again I'm here for info so my ears are open. Any others got any additonal info on this.
The holes cant be used. I modified some v6 mounts and had them welded in in.
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=12117&start=0
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=12117&start=0
1FastWh1 said:
there is alot of info online about what your proposing to do. If you have people telling you that you can use those holes then they must know which ones.
well I'm confused then because if you google the TA motor mount pad kit you get this and there is no mention of a G body
We offer two generations of frame mount pads for the Buick 400-430-455 for use in restorations, updating and transplants. Our pad for the `68-`72 GS/ Skylark is a reproduction of the original and is a bolt in for all `68-`72 A-body cars . Due to it’s compact features this is the frame pad most used for transplants. Our early (`64-`67 GS/Skylark) pad is very similar to the one used on `67 GS 400 models, with slight modification at the motor mount point, to allow the use of the readily available motor mount, instead of the 1967 only motor mounts, these pads also include an optional mounting position to allow for improved header clearance. Use this pad for transplants of 400-430-455 engines into any `64-`67 A-body car, or to update an original `67 GS 400 to use the newer motor mount. Both styles are manufactured by TA Performance and are available in cast iron or cast aluminum. Also available in frame pad and motor mount kits. Motor mounts are brand new not re-built original type rubber. We also have our TA 1820 motor mount bolt kit with grade 8 fasteners, that includes all of the mounting hardware required.
We offer two generations of frame mount pads for the Buick 400-430-455 for use in restorations, updating and transplants. Our pad for the `68-`72 GS/ Skylark is a reproduction of the original and is a bolt in for all `68-`72 A-body cars . Due to it’s compact features this is the frame pad most used for transplants. Our early (`64-`67 GS/Skylark) pad is very similar to the one used on `67 GS 400 models, with slight modification at the motor mount point, to allow the use of the readily available motor mount, instead of the 1967 only motor mounts, these pads also include an optional mounting position to allow for improved header clearance. Use this pad for transplants of 400-430-455 engines into any `64-`67 A-body car, or to update an original `67 GS 400 to use the newer motor mount. Both styles are manufactured by TA Performance and are available in cast iron or cast aluminum. Also available in frame pad and motor mount kits. Motor mounts are brand new not re-built original type rubber. We also have our TA 1820 motor mount bolt kit with grade 8 fasteners, that includes all of the mounting hardware required.
well the comments at the bottom of the video seem to say they used the wrong holes in the block side
The only ISSUE was that I installed the passenger's side MOTOR MOUNT in the wrong holes. I used the Buick 455's #1 & #2 holes ... which causes the engine to sit too far back into the firewall. The correct holes to use are the #'s 3-4 for motor mount installation in this type project.
but either way isn't your problem solved?
The only ISSUE was that I installed the passenger's side MOTOR MOUNT in the wrong holes. I used the Buick 455's #1 & #2 holes ... which causes the engine to sit too far back into the firewall. The correct holes to use are the #'s 3-4 for motor mount installation in this type project.
but either way isn't your problem solved?
Yeh sort of I just wanted to take the guess work out of it and have a smooth swap but I guess this is almost impossible. I just wanted to avoid taking the motor in and out and in out you know. But I guess this might be part of it. I just wish I had some sort of diagram.
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