New carburetor issues

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Charcoal85

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May 29, 2023
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I’ve seen a bunch of guys with their monte’s and elcos slapping on an aftermarket carb on their 305’s as a replacement to the quadrajet. However this leaves a lot of sensors unplugged and from what I found, affects the TH200’s ability to consistently shift smoothly and lock up. I need some help figuring out what these other guys are doing to make their carb swap seamless.
 
Stick with the factory CCC Qjet, its superior to aftermarket carbs. Do not let internet lugheads fool you into believing otherwise.
 
For what you spend on an aftermarket carb and replacement distributor, you can get a qjet properly rebuilt from a high quality reputable guy (not an auto parts store or ebay), replace your vacuum lines, and refurbish or replace any wonky sensors to have it all work to 100%.
It’s good advice, but my other problem is that thing was BEATTT so it’s probably sitting in the dump somewhere 🤣
 
It’s good advice, but my other problem is that thing was BEATTT so it’s probably sitting in the dump somewhere 🤣
With the number of engine swaps, ls transplants, etc out there it's not that hard to get a core to send out for rebuild. If you looked for a 1985 v8 Monte, El Camino, or Grand Prix here in the US, all used the chevy 305 and should have basically the same core compatible with how the factory set up your car.
 
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First thing to get understood here is "Where you is at? Specifically, do you want to stay with the Q-jet or do you want to swap it for something else? Choices at this point include but are not limited to a Holley, Edelbrock AVS, QuickFuel, Demon and a few others in the carb category, finding a reputable builder who knows and has extensive experience with the Quad and all its variants, or considering Fuel inJection, which is a mile deep rabbit hole that I am not about to dive into.

Second point, is the state of the ignition system as a whole. Is it otherwise completely stock and in good working order? If you still have the CCC box is it working or has it been decommissioned? Is the matching distributor still installed or has it been pulled and an HEI of some kind plugged in instead?

The point to all of this is that, with the CCC controlled system, or any of its successors. there is no adjustment to the carb beyond the idle. The controller makes all the changes needed by way of compensation for acceleration and braking, timing advances and retards, usually based on input from both a Throttle position sensor and input from a coolant temperature sensor. The temperatuere sensor can look something like a small plastic tree since it has multiple ports; one being the vacuum delivery line and the rest being vacuum output or feed lines that are active or idle according to how hot the engine is.

You also mentioned the Transmission, a TH200-R4, and that fact that it has the electric lockup. This T-box does not depend on vacuum to shift gears. It gets its input from a TVS cable that is attached to the same lever that the accelerator cable is. The short story is that, as you accelerate, tension on the cable increases, which causes internal ATF pressure in the box to increase. At a preset point, the pressure gets high enough that a change in gear occurs. The key point with that cable is that it has to be set as precisely as possible in terms of its initial or static tension. Too tight and you get premature, very hard shifts from gear to gear, too slack and the shifts are late or delayed.

The fun fact about the lock up is that it is not influenced by the carb or distributor. If you review the wiring diagram, it is actually wired to be active as soon as you start the car. Earlier versions that were installed in the TH350's were wired to only affect third or high gear and only at highway speeds. In the TH200 and the 700R4 the lockup is active in all 4 gears. Your foot on the brake pedal to slow down or stop is what unlocks or defeats it and as soon as you accelerate again, it comes back on.

The final point here is what other mods or parts have been installed or removed, hedders, cam, intake, rockers??

If your motor is totally OEM stock and you have no desire to change that state of affairs, then the previous suggestion posted above is and remains valid; go find a reputable builder, ship him/her a correct core for your year/make/model/CID motor and pay the $$$ that they will ask to build you a good carb that you can install and run.

The hardest part to all that is finding that core. Q-jets have been the default carb for GM for decades and the numbers tend to change from both year to year and make/model to make/model. You may seriously need to locate a parts yard that has a substantial inventory of carbs that has accumulated over the decades and hope your carb is in that stash and still in good shape.



Nick
 
First thing to get understood here is "Where you is at? Specifically, do you want to stay with the Q-jet or do you want to swap it for something else? Choices at this point include but are not limited to a Holley, Edelbrock AVS, QuickFuel, Demon and a few others in the carb category, finding a reputable builder who knows and has extensive experience with the Quad and all its variants, or considering Fuel inJection, which is a mile deep rabbit hole that I am not about to dive into.

Second point, is the state of the ignition system as a whole. Is it otherwise completely stock and in good working order? If you still have the CCC box is it working or has it been decommissioned? Is the matching distributor still installed or has it been pulled and an HEI of some kind plugged in instead?

The point to all of this is that, with the CCC controlled system, or any of its successors. there is no adjustment to the carb beyond the idle. The controller makes all the changes needed by way of compensation for acceleration and braking, timing advances and retards, usually based on input from both a Throttle position sensor and input from a coolant temperature sensor. The temperatuere sensor can look something like a small plastic tree since it has multiple ports; one being the vacuum delivery line and the rest being vacuum output or feed lines that are active or idle according to how hot the engine is.

You also mentioned the Transmission, a TH200-R4, and that fact that it has the electric lockup. This T-box does not depend on vacuum to shift gears. It gets its input from a TVS cable that is attached to the same lever that the accelerator cable is. The short story is that, as you accelerate, tension on the cable increases, which causes internal ATF pressure in the box to increase. At a preset point, the pressure gets high enough that a change in gear occurs. The key point with that cable is that it has to be set as precisely as possible in terms of its initial or static tension. Too tight and you get premature, very hard shifts from gear to gear, too slack and the shifts are late or delayed.

The fun fact about the lock up is that it is not influenced by the carb or distributor. If you review the wiring diagram, it is actually wired to be active as soon as you start the car. Earlier versions that were installed in the TH350's were wired to only affect third or high gear and only at highway speeds. In the TH200 and the 700R4 the lockup is active in all 4 gears. Your foot on the brake pedal to slow down or stop is what unlocks or defeats it and as soon as you accelerate again, it comes back on.

The final point here is what other mods or parts have been installed or removed, hedders, cam, intake, rockers??

If your motor is totally OEM stock and you have no desire to change that state of affairs, then the previous suggestion posted above is and remains valid; go find a reputable builder, ship him/her a correct core for your year/make/model/CID motor and pay the $$$ that they will ask to build you a good carb that you can install and run.

The hardest part to all that is finding that core. Q-jets have been the default carb for GM for decades and the numbers tend to change from both year to year and make/model to make/model. You may seriously need to locate a parts yard that has a substantial inventory of carbs that has accumulated over the decades and hope your carb is in that stash and still in good shape.



Nick

There is some adjustment available through PROM chip selection. LG4 chips are a mild tune, L69 chips are a hotter tune, and ZZ4 chips are even hotter tunes but require an 87 up computer.
 
Regardless to what carb you end up using, TV cable adjustment is absolutely imperative. Done incorrectly, you can burn up the trans clutches really fast. There are special linkage adapters made for aftermarket units, and many diagrams pertaining to this critical adjustment all over the net.
 
Plus 1 on the above. To that end I did post a thread on the how to of adjusting that TV cable on this board some time ago. It is likely to be found on the Non G-Body forum because the T-mission was a 700R4 and the ride was my Non G-Body, Gee-Body G-10 van. There is a good search engine resident on this site that can find reference stuff for you if you ask it politely.



Nick
 
Whats wrong with the. E bay carbs.might have to adjust the auxiliary air valve ..not rocket science I would get one for the nonemission motors...and get one for a 305 0r 327 ect.not and olds 455! For those who don't know what an auxiliary Air valve is....it's the thing looks like a closed choke but on the back 2 barrels .
 
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