noisy sbc

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Well I know for a fact I have a button as its built into my cover. The timing set says includes bearing but we shall see. All I know is I'm bent out of shape bad. Been 8 years 2 engines just ordered a complete fuel injection setup new tank etc and here things looking bad again and I still haven't driven the car. Didn't get a wink of sleep last night and dragging me down today at work. Uhhh
 
I would just check everything, I had an issue with my setup when I first put it together. 1st roller too. My milodon front cover had a wear plate and I got nylon thrust button from COMP. I switched cams because 1st cam had too low of vacuum and when I switched to new cam I didn't realize I needed to change thrust button. Make sure thrust button in your cover is the right size for your cam. I have a 12-422-8 Cam, 211 thrust button, 65555 front cover and 08-2001T-9 timing set. (My timing set came with a torrington bearing also)
 
Fox80 said:
I have not seen a timing chain set come with the thrust button or Torrington bearing.

My last timing set did. It's even a filter option on Summit Racing's site.
 
And here we go. This is becoming all to familiar.
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It looks like the cam lock plate the machinist wanted to use ate into timing cover. Haven't pulled the land and timing cover yet. So what's next?

Ran a compression test as well. All cylinders checked out at 175psi
 
That is very strange, I wouldn't take the lock plate off maybe shim out the center cover and reset the cam end play. Or machine the heads of the three cam bolts and the tabs on the cam plate. The set up for SBC I have always used have the button under the cam plate, so I guess in theory the plate could come off and loctite the bolts in, I just like the mechanical lock of the plate. Are you sure you have the end play correct? How does that not make a noise while on the stand spinning it by hand? If the cam walk lets the plate hit the cover then your cam button isn't controlling the end play like it should, the button should touch the gear face before the plate would ever touch the cover.
 
I have always used that style cam lock plate along with a roller cam button with a thrust washer or Torrington bearing with any SBC or BBC I have assembled and they all work perfectly together if end play is adjusted properly.
Though I have never used the Cloyes style cover with the built in roller cam button it would only be a different way of making the same adjustment.
I can not think of any other explanation other than the camshaft endplay was not adjusted properly.
Hopefully internal damage is at a minimum but since the engine was ran the damage I would look for is obviously metal shavings in the engine and any
unusual wear on the cam lobes and lifters and possibly wear on the timing gears/chain since it was forced to ride against the timing cover putting the chain on an angle in relationship to the crank gear.
 
What about the bearings?
 
I know you don't want to hear this but I personally would tear down the entire engine and do a complete inspection and thorough cleaning.
I don't know how long you ran it like this but hopefully nothing got to the bearings but as you already know there is only one way to find out.
 
I don't mind tearing it all down again. I just don't know what the crank was turned to for new bearings. If everything looks OK do I just replace bearings and reuse rings? What about can bearings?
 
The back of all the bearings will be marked with the undersize on them .010,.020,.030 you can just get new bearings if you need to, or just inspect everything and reinstall them. If you start changing parts make sure you check your clearances. I wouldn't change the rings, your main concerns are the rod and main bearings, and the cam bearings if metal passed through the motor, and the cam, lifters, and timing chain if the end play wasn't set correctly like said above. If the bearings are all junk a thorough block cleaning is in order as well as a new oil pump
 
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