OIL

blk7gxn

blk7gxn

Master Mechanic
Feb 7, 2019
272
43
To each their own on brand / weight, conventional or synthetic , depends on each specific application and build needs. This has been a heated topic for many , and some will argue till their death on what brand, or what weight to use to try to convince you what to use, i think world wars could be actually started on this subject. I'm a firm believer on what the manufacture guild lines recommend. With that being said, our beloved cars are now 31 to 41+ years old, and many improvements to oils have been made in the past few decades. One really needs to research the market for what best fits your own personal needs and engine builds, because their may be an oil out there that's better and can out perform what your currently using . Also ZINC has been removed from most oils in order to prolong the life of our Catalyst converters, a primary lubricant additive now only found in "High Mileage" oils, or in over the counter specific additives. Me personally, I like to use Synthetic 10w30 Mobile One high mileage, and change intervals of 3,000 Miles, that's JUST ME. Please share your ritual and what Oil you use and why. would love to see the responses/conversations here, let the wars begin lol
 
joesregalproject

joesregalproject

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 4, 2012
3,307
113
Pittsburgh, PA
Valvoline VR1 for anything with a flat tappet cam. Subaru gets Idemitsu 0w20 synthetic. Truck jas a roller cam, it gets 10w30 Valvoline Maxlife. Camry gets whatever 5w30 is on sale at Walmart, it's about to croak anyways.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MrSony
8

81cutlass

Royal Smart Person
Feb 16, 2009
1,778
113
Western MN
Everything I own gets the cheapest farm supply store available, differs between store brand and citgo depending on sales.

Cutlass and Wagon (flat tappet cams) get a bottle of break in oil every oil change to add zinc.

Doesn't matter if its my 500hp lq4 2+2 or my 250k mile 5.3 Rainier, cheap dinosaur sqeezings for me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: fleming442
D

Doug Chahoy

Royal Smart Person
Nov 21, 2016
1,055
113
GM says 5 W 30 for cold weather, 10 W 30 for normal conditions. Once my new engine has a few miles on it I plan on Mobil high milage synthetic 10 W 30
 
  • Like
Reactions: blk7gxn
bob64

bob64

G-Body Guru
Mar 30, 2017
717
93
Niagara Falls, Canada
Penn Synthetic 10-30 in all classics, why because of there recommendation on changing there oil, first 5000kms add oil if needed, second 5000kms added oil if needed an change filter, third 5000kms full change. Honestly price wise it's cheaper than non-synthetic oil changes at every 5000kms. As my classics never would see 1000kms a year go to next point, vvvv

As it's synthetic it doesn't break down like non-synthetic oils which need to be changed ever 6 months no matter mileage do to being exposed.

Newer vehicles get Penn synthetic oil but recommend grade, normally 5-30, refer back to first paragraph.

I should also state that for a fresh rebuild in the classics, first oil is cheap oil(?) with zinc additive then change at 50kms to a better mineral(Vavoline) oil with zinc additive and change over to synthetic at 500kms,all 3 changes are 10-30.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: blk7gxn
Dayzedandkonfuzed

Dayzedandkonfuzed

Master Mechanic
Feb 9, 2010
399
43
Anglemont, BC
I run Lucas Hot Rod Oil most of the time, 10w40 leaks a little slower than 10w30 in the Malibu lol.

Here's something that always starts an argument;
The W stands for winter, not weight.
 
  • Like
Reactions: blk7gxn
Thread starter Similar threads Forum Replies Date
TURNA General Discussion 10
dickeymoore General Discussion 4
Steve-R0828 General Discussion 4
Bri guy General Discussion 75
TURNA General Discussion 6

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck ConsolesDixie Restoration DepotMike's MontesP-S-TSouthside Machine PerformanceUMI Performance

contact[email protected]for info on becoming a sponsor