Ok I give, what's the trick to getting the shifter cable installed and then to work

[Ribbedroof]

It appears that you have not tried adjusting length at the stud?

What retailer did the cable come from? It may have been mis/re-packaged along the way.

My bet is the stud needs to be moved, it is possible that over the years things have moved a little (saggy body mounts, etc), and adding a different cable will surely require adjustment. To my knowledge, this is the only adjustment point on GM floor shift automatics.

 

[Ribbedroof]

Following my previous suggestion, although physically challenging for you, is, IMO the shortest route to finding the problem. I wish I was close to you to assist. I had a small fight with the cable on my Malibu, and was able to rectify it, so I do understand it can be very frustrating.

EDIT: There is also adjustment at the backdrive rod that could prevent the components (shifter, trans, column) from working in harmony...this is why I suggest disconnecting it first, to ensure the shift cable operation is un-impeded by other components.

 

[Ribbedroof]

Something was obviously wrong in the current setup, as shifter cables almost never bind or break without outside forces. In my personal experience, I have had 2 failures (many years ago), both were on the same car ('70 LeMans Sport), and the result of a previous owner installing the wrong battery with no battery retainer....which allowed the positive terminal to short against the fender in a hard corner while doing a little "spirited" driving. This melted the cable jacket to the cable, which meant no shifter movement until I disconnected the backdrive rod. I was young and a litle bit of a slow learner, evidently.

 

[azmusclecar]

Okay I loosened the bolt for the stud that attaches the cable to the transmission lever. I got very little adjustment out of that.

Please, tell me this..........How am I to get the cable to come out of the housing anymore than it will at present?

The attachment at the shifter, solid mount with the rubber cable encasing affixed solidly with a metal clip......and EVEN
WITH the cable NOT attached to anything, the cable will not pull out any further than to let the shift lever go to Neutral.

How can you adjust the cable INSIDE the casing? The travel of the cable........the casing has fixed points which cannot be changed.

Unless someone can explain to me how to get that cable to move FURTHER towards the shifter connection, I need to stop.....

The entire LENGTH of the cable is NOT the issue. IT'S THE TRAVEL of the cable inside...........this really shouldn't be that hard
to install..................

I can see ALL the adjustments made when a B&M shifter cable is used..........makes sense. But this? The cable should simply
have a range of travel where whatever it moves at one end is the exact same at the other end...............

 

[azmusclecar]

I can see where the original cable had chaffed and rubbed through the outer casing and water had gotten inside the casing. When I tried to
pull the cable to make movement on the original, the cable broke down inside the casing.............and that was that.

 

[1evilregal]

I had a similar issue while putting in a new cable. when I realized I had the wrong cable, I put the old cable back in, and had some similar issues. turns out that the rod mechanism leading back up the column was binding up, causing my original issue of "gobbling up trannys like a budding p*rn star", as another member put it. try unhooking the rod at the transmission and see if you still have the problem.

 

[azmusclecar]

I had a similar issue while putting in a new cable. when I realized I had the wrong cable, I put the old cable back in, and had some similar issues. turns out that the rod mechanism leading back up the column was binding up, causing my original issue of "gobbling up trannys like a budding p*rn star", as another member put it. try unhooking the rod at the transmission and see if you still have the problem.

I will certainly do THAT IF.you can tell me how what you are suggesting is going to make that cable travel any further in the shielding.........

How is the travel for the GEAR pattern inside the transmission going to get any shorter as the lever moves to each and every gear notch?

If th ecable only comes out of the sheathing 3 inches and I need it to come out four..........how is what you suggesting going to make a difference
when each and every gear stop on the transmission lever is correct and the shifters gate is correct......but the issue is at BOTH ends of the cable?

I don't mean to sound indignant but I need to understand the WHY I am doing this and HOW it will make a difference before I DO it to just
throw another idea at it.

Who here can tell me how to get more travel from the cable???????????? Have that cable move longer inside the sheath...an inch or so.
Where is that person?

 

[Ribbedroof]

Have you unhooked the backdrive yet?

You have left questions unanswered.

Did you follow my prior post in order? I get the feeling you're jumping around from here to there, fixating on the cable...it may or may not be the problem.

There is no adjustment in the cable. Much of the help you have been given has not been answered, like travel of shifter arm and shifter, independant of the cable. And actual cable travel when not installed. Without a logical diagnosis path, it's MrSony's world all over again.

I tried to post a sequence that would require the least amount of up and down under the car....I don't know how else to try to assist further

 

[Ribbedroof]

THERE IS NO MORE TRAVEL IN THE CABLE.

What I have presented is a method to verify if you indeed have the cable that belonged in the box.

Why are you fighting a logical diagnostic path?

 

[TURNA]

Did you compare the 2 cables?

Are they they same length?

Is everything in the same location?

I like pioneer but I cant believe that pioneer make a cable specific for the factory Hurst Dual Gate