Ok I give, what's the trick to getting the shifter cable installed and then to work

[Ribbedroof]

Did you compare the 2 cables?

Are they they same length?

Is everything in the same location?

I like pioneer but I cant believe that pioneer make a cable specific for the factory Hurst Dual Gate

It is listed as such, they have it and the regular with different numbers

 

[azmusclecar]

THERE IS NO MORE TRAVEL IN THE CABLE.

What I have presented is a method to verify if you indeed have the cable that belonged in the box.

Why are you fighting a logical diagnostic path?

Im not fighting it, I have already contacted the seller.........I have been addressing ideas others have thrown at the fix.

If the cable needs to travel 4 inches to low gear on the shifter, and it will only travel 3 inches.........then I quit there
long ago...............

I appreciate yours and everyone's suggestions and diagnostic input but I too have some common sense.........so please give me some credit.

Thank you

 

[azmusclecar]

Did you compare the 2 cables?

Are they they same length?

Is everything in the same location?

I like pioneer but I cant believe that pioneer make a cable specific for the factory Hurst Dual Gate

I cannot compare the two since the OLD cable broke...........the length of the sheathing, is fine.........but I cannot
measure the travel of the cable inside the old one because it broke inside the sheathing from rust.

 

[Ribbedroof]

Is this a measure 4 inches and 3 inches, or a guess?

Did you clean the crud out of the slot at the stud?

DID YOU TRY ALL THE STEPS OR JUST A COUPLE?...because the ANSWER TO YOUR PROBLEM is in that process.

Or, you could just keep guessing what cable you have/need.

I see it every day at work, people get hung up on one facet of a problem and can't see anything else...hell, I've been there myself a time or two

Hope you find a solution I'm out

 

[Ribbedroof]

I cannot compare the two since the OLD cable broke...........the length of the sheathing, is fine.........but I cannot
measure the travel of the cable inside the old one because it broke inside the sheathing from rust.

The old cable should not even be in this discussion. What matters is the travel at the shifter, the shift arm, and the new cable free travel.

Since you don';t have a working OE cable, you NEED to know those three measurements to stand any chance of getting it corrected. It is HIGHLY likely that the cable had been misboxed and/or tried and returned in the wrong box by a previous customer after it left the manufacturer, especially if it's not from a reputable retailer

 

[azmusclecar]

Is this a measure 4 inches and 3 inches, or a guess?

Did you clean the crud out of the slot at the stud?

DID YOU TRY ALL THE STEPS OR JUST A COUPLE?...because the ANSWER TO YOUR PROBLEM is in that process.

Or, you could just keep guessing what cable you have/need.

I see it every day at work, people get hung up on one facet of a problem and can't see anything else...hell, I've been there myself a time or two

Hope you find a solution I'm out

Yes I cleaned the crud out of the slot for the stud and moved it as far back as I could. Thank you for your helpful hints and ideas.

 

[azmusclecar]

Is this a measure 4 inches and 3 inches, or a guess?

Here's your answer..............

 

[azmusclecar]

The old cable should not even be in this discussion. What matters is the travel at the shifter, the shift arm, and the new cable free travel.

Since you don';t have a working OE cable, you NEED to know those three measurements to stand any chance of getting it corrected. It is HIGHLY likely that the cable had been misboxed and/or tried and returned in the wrong box by a previous customer after it left the manufacturer, especially if it's not from a reputable retailer

Agreed..................those 3 things add up to the right cable.............and the old cable is irrelevant

 

[1evilregal]

my linkage was binding up, causing the pivot at the transmission to not seat in the proper detents, hanging the valve body between gears. when I ended up putting the old cable back in(pin/bolt lined up on the exact marks it came off the trans), it wouldn't go past neutral and would only go to the "2" on the indicator. I had always had problems with the key not turning in neutral, so when I unhooked the hard linkage at the cable bracket on the trans, everything started working as it should.

maybe you have a different setup than I have, and it may be getting you confused. do you have this bracket on the trans where the cable hooks to?

the flat side is where the cable attaches, and the "U" is where the linkage to the steering column goes in. if you have this, try unhooking the hard linkage in the "U" shaped section.

 

[Ribbedroof]

my linkage was binding up, causing the pivot at the transmission to not seat in the proper detents, hanging the valve body between gears. when I ended up putting the old cable back in(pin/bolt lined up on the exact marks it came off the trans), it wouldn't go past neutral and would only go to the "2" on the indicator. I had always had problems with the key not turning in neutral, so when I unhooked the hard linkage at the cable bracket on the trans, everything started working as it should.

maybe you have a different setup than I have, and it may be getting you confused. do you have this bracket on the trans where the cable hooks to?
View attachment 112924
the flat side is where the cable attaches, and the "U" is where the linkage to the steering column goes in. if you have this, try unhooking the hard linkage in the "U" shaped section.

Olds lever is somewhat different, but same principle. Disconnecting backdrive linkage has been suggested several times by myself and others, but no idea if it's been tried.