Ok I need help again. Crank no start.

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JuuCeD82ReGaL

Greasemonkey
Jan 27, 2008
110
0
0
Marietta Ga
Ok first offf whats up to every1 on here. Been away fixing up the regal and living life. So today I moved and was moving the car to the new house. It has been running decent until today when I started it it fired up and I let it idle for about 10 15 min. Then I drove it about a mile and when I started to go on a main street with a slight hill it bogged out on me. So I start it again and it fires right up but when I give it gas it will rev high as u want then immediately bog out like its getting no gas. So I replaced the sparkplugs again because as I mentioned before they are always oil fouled but I replaced them. Checked the fuel filter and its fine, still new. Replaced fuel pump which I must add was a serious b*tch and a half! Took me 3 hours on side of the road! Just for 2 bolts and a gasket to stay in place while installing. Anyway after the fuel pump installed I tried to start it and now it will just crank. I sprayed carb cleaner and it runs off of that then dies. I know im gettin gas because I can see when I loosen the connection that goes to the carb where the fuel filter is it spirts gas out. WTF my baby is sittin on the side of the road as we speak ready to be freakin stripped of parts and Im at my wits end. I only have 50 bucks on me till this thursday and that sucks cuz 50.00 wont help me with a tow. And in 4 days im sure someone will decide to mess with my car. What else should I do any1? I am really desperate this point and need every1s feedback. sh*t I just want to move my car to my new house and put it in the garage and start workin on it. Aghhhhhh!!!!!! :x Im venting sorry!!!!!

P.s. When I pulled the sparkplug wires off to change plugs, one of them popped off while the metal connection from inside got stuck on the tip of the sparkplug. I got it off and tried to recrimp it back on the wire and it let the car start up while force feeding the carb with starter fluid but it just will die out when hitting the throttle. Would faulty plug wires not allow the car to burn gas enough to stay at idle and actually run under load while accelerating? I dont get it the car ran idling for 15 min fine then drove decent for about a mile then just wants to not run period.
 
Sep 1, 2006
6,687
34
0
Tampa Bay Area
Did you install the fuel filter backwards? An easy way to eliminate the filter as the problem is to temporarily remove it and see if it runs. If not, look down the throat of the carb and pump the throttle arm once or twice. Do you see fuel squirt from the accelerator pump? If so, and it is a strong stream, you are getting fuel and the problem is in the carb. If not, check to see if you have a small hole or a dent in the chassis fuel line, or the fuel hoses. A hole here can act like a straw with a crack in it, and will pull a lot of air, and not enough fuel to keep the car running. If not, the problem could be a plugged up "sock" at the end of the fuel pickup tube in the tank. To me, it all sounds like a fuel delivery problem since the starter fluid allows it to run, and it idled fine. If you can get fuel into the carb and back out again, you should be able to get it to run.

There is also a possibility that you could rig up something using the washer pump and reservoir to get fuel to the fuel bowl via a hose ( maybe attached to the vent tube or the evaporative vent in lieu of the carbon cannister hose) so that you could just keep feeding it until you get it home. It would stall a lot, but may make it. If you try this and it burns the car to the ground though, don't blame me please. It is not the smartest thing, but it may work. (The idea is not mine, but comes from an episode of "Car Talk" I heard on NPR 8 years ago!) A gas can, a section of hose and a small pump ( or a boat fuel tank ) could also get the job done, but either of these suggestions should be considered DANGEROUS and only undertaken if you are willing to live with the consequences if it all goes wrong.
 

JuuCeD82ReGaL

Greasemonkey
Jan 27, 2008
110
0
0
Marietta Ga
Thanx for responding. I appreciate it. So what u had said about air getting into the fuel system is not good? Let me mention that a few weeks ago I had gotten a gas tank from the salvage yards because the one I had leaked bad. It was from a 84 buick regal. They gave me the fuel sending unit with the tank and I noitced the tank I got had a decent size dent in it but no leaks. So when I installed it I fired it up and it actually ran enough for me to back it up in another parking spot in apartments. So then I cut it off and ended up wanting to move the car again and it just wouldnt start or stay running only unless forcefeding it . It actually did what the car is doing now. Anyway I pulled the tank off and checked the fuel sending unit. it was some what bent at the bottom from the impact of the tank being dented. the copper tubing on bottom of sending unit sitting on bottom of tank inside I just opened it open a little and left it alone. Then I noticed on top of the gas tank where your fuel sending unit sits you have connections. On the tank I got from the junkyard that was a "84 regal" has 3 lines comiing off top. My old tank only has 2 lines. I tried to crimp the line closed that was in the center and hooked the other two lines up the way I thought it should be looking off of the old sending unit. That didnt work so I opened it up some and it started and ran a few weeks till all this started happening. So... if there is 3 pipes coming off the sending unit from the 84 regal and 2 pipes coming from mine. What is the other line for? Air? because it ran when I opened it up.
 
Sep 1, 2006
6,687
34
0
Tampa Bay Area
An excellent question! Unfortunately, I don't know the answer. One is for the return line from the charcoal cannister, one is the fuel feed, and the other may have something to do with the roll over valve. ( If the car rolls over, this check valve shuts off fuel from feeding the engine, hopefully stopping a fire.)

My first check would be the accelerator pump squirt test because it can be done in a moment and takes no tools. If it passes this test, it should run because it is getting fuel. Other than that, if there is fuel present in the carb, and it won't feed out of the carb, you have a plugged passage somewhere inside the carb. Something may have fell in the vent tube of the carb and got sucked into the passage. My funny story for this involves a baby cockroach that somehow had found it's way into the carb of my AMC ( Holley 750). It would get sucked into the jet and block the idle feed restriction, thus starving it for fuel whenever I hit the gas. My solution (temporarily) was to squirt carb cleaner down the passage from the venturi and dislodge it, thus letting it run and get me going until it plugged it again. It may be something stupid and simple like that, I don't really know unless I actually look at the car. There are quite a few things it could be, but I would start at the carb to determine that it is getting fuel, and work backwards to the tank from there. If you think you are, you may wish to take a small lid from a milk bottle, or other small container and carefully fill the float bowl with fuel to see if it will start and run until dry. If so, the carb works. Then check your lines, etc. Remember that air that gets constantly sucked in is the enemy of fuel delivery. I would also loosen the gas cap or remove it to see if you maybe restricted the air that replaces the fuel lost and caused a vacuum starvation problem. That may be due to blocking the third line. If this is the case, removing the cap will temporarily fix it until you can get the right sender. There are a thousand little things to check that I kind of know by instinct and am sure I have left some out. I hope this helps you take a step in the right direction.
 

JuuCeD82ReGaL

Greasemonkey
Jan 27, 2008
110
0
0
Marietta Ga
Ok well thanks again for some of the troubleshootin tips. I lucked out and got one of my friends to use theyre insurance with roadside assistance to tow my car. So im about to go see if it didnt get stripped or anything overnight. I called the storage company that its sitting in front of and they said its still there so thank the lord on that one. Here in Atlanta tow truck drivers are real shady and they will tow a gbody in a heartbeat for parts. Not to mention it has been broken in before at the trunk lock before I bought it. So all u need is a screwdriver and u have access to 6 new deep cell group31 batteries and Hydraulic setup for free. I hope its still there.... Anyway I know ya'll who have been reading this have some theorys about whats going on with the fuel situation. MAN FEEL FREE TO SPEAK UP. ANY INPUT IS GOOD INPUT. :)
 

JuuCeD82ReGaL

Greasemonkey
Jan 27, 2008
110
0
0
Marietta Ga
85 Cutlass ur the man. I did the accelerator pump test and at first u could hear it plenty but I got a light and didnt see anything in carb while doin it. So I took the filter out and hooked it back up and the b*tch fired right up and stayed running! :mrgreen: I replaced the fuelfilter not to long ago but that was the culprit.
 

JuuCeD82ReGaL

Greasemonkey
Jan 27, 2008
110
0
0
Marietta Ga
Ok So I get a new fuel filter and try to see if it will run and it does in park until u put it in gear then it wants to die. I then took out the fuel filter and tried it and it will run even when i put it in gear with my foot on the brake it maintains its idle. Even when I looked inside the carb when doing the accelerator test it seem I have to push the accelerator alot of times to get a good flow coming out the injectors in carb. But with no filter there is good flow. Should I get a see thru glass filter and install it inline before the carb, and just do away with stock filter? Is the carb not getting enough fuel thats why it dying when put into gear>????
 
Sep 1, 2006
6,687
34
0
Tampa Bay Area
You have been installing the filter wrong then. If you put it in in the wrong sequence ( I forget which goes first, the spring or the filter) or backwards, it will loose the ability to flow gas.
 

JuuCeD82ReGaL

Greasemonkey
Jan 27, 2008
110
0
0
Marietta Ga
Heck I got a haynes book. Cant see pics very well but I have the spring
in the carb first then the blocked side of filter against spring facing carb and open side of it facing front of car where i tighten it up at.
 
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