Ok I need help again. Crank no start.

[JuuCeD82ReGaL]

LoL Yea I do have the v6 and come to think about it this is probably as fast as it will go. Including the 500lbs in the trunk. In warm weather it runs good though. What do u think a reasonable price would be to remove the v6 and swap to any 305,307 or 350 v8? Any guess at how much I could be looking at for the swap?
Also with the timing I thinkyour right because like I said before all i was doing was chasing the mark around because it would stall on me either direction I move it to trying to get to tdc. But runs best where it is totally on the other side of the balancer.

 

[JuuCeD82ReGaL]

BuMp!!! Cutlass where u at?

 

[JuuCeD82ReGaL]

Anyone have any kind of ways to adjust the chokes without a gauge? I have my coil cover off and I just cant find where it needs to be because it wont even get up to speed what so ever and idles like crap along with some valve tapping all of a sudden. It doesnt die out out me really when i put it into gear but it just has too much black smoke coming out. Really rich?

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

Well, it all depends for choke adjustment. If it is unaltered, the cover will be pop riveted in place and not serviceable unless you change that. Rebuild kits for these carbs come with the proper screws and clamps to change it to the old school 70's way of doing things. It's the same housing after all, it even comes threaded. For acceleration in stock form, I tested my Cutlass with the V6/2.41 axle back when it had only 62 k on it in 1993. We did it several times, and it took between 20 and 23 seconds to hit 60mph!!! This was a car in perfect tune that had all of it's systems operating correctly. So, yeah. It's about the slowest thing on 4 wheels that does not come from a former Eastern Block country! My best mod for it was to unplug the ECU which made it go 0-60 in about 15 seconds. I left it that way for over a year. Some say it is not a good idea, and maybe it is not. But then again, neither is a 110hp engine in a 3400lb car with Salt Flats racer gearing.

As for why I have not been on the boards in the last few days, let's just say plumbing leaks are a b*tch and I have had to rip up carpeting, and tear out some drywall to dry my house out before mold destroyed it all. Plus, I also had to drain my pool to get rid of all of the dirt that was there from it not having been run in over a year (and the county can now fine me if they see it b/c of a change in the law) , my roof is now collapsing over my back porch, and I am in a race against time before all of this goes terribly wrong!

 

[JuuCeD82ReGaL]

Well it has already been altered before because there are screws that hold it. My problem is when I turn the coil I try to do it fully close with a little pressure coming the other wayclockwise and that makes it run like crap, even makes some gas come out the carb overflowing a little. I just need to find a way to put it in itsplace so that it functions properly. Man I have A Chiltons but it is wrote out confusing and will never buy another. how the heck am I suppose to bend the so called *tang* that connects to the choke. And how am I bending it
to what degree? Confusing :x

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

You don't have to bend anything, just switch to screws to hold the black Bakelite cover with the choke coil element in it to the aluminum housing. Then, you just need to rotate it to move it. You can tell if you are making it tighter by looking at the choke plate. If you loosen it, it will open a little. Set it barely fully closed on a warm day. That way, it will stay closed longer on cold mornings, but still stay closed enough to warm the engine up on the fast idle cam on a warm day and not stall.

 

[JuuCeD82ReGaL]

Well this is what I came up with today. First I put the choke back where Im pretty sure it shoould be, knowing that it has to be closed with a slight opening
like u stated and the coil cover only fits one way so its in the right position to my knowledge. The car runs really good in park with a idle that is pretty high but sounds like it ready to go, but if u put it in drive it wont die or anything it just looses all of its rpm and stumbles horribly. So I blocked the wheels and tried to make adjustments with it in drive playing with the accelerator. Well thats not working so good. I also noticed the accelerator isnt touching the idle sensor deal on the driver side of carb by oil cap. Is it suppose to have pressure on it? And u know what else the coil choke has the tps I think? You know where on the choke housing u can plug that small wire to it that make the choke light show up on the dash? Well its been off since I had the car and it still works by showing up on the dash but it doesnt seem to make a difference. or does it need to be hooked up? Any help is appreciated ya'll.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

The TPS is on the opposite side of the carb, and has a 3 wire plug on the front f the carb. The idle thingie you referred to is the idle speed compensator for when the A/C compressor is switched on. To give you anything more specific, I would really need to service the car in person. It could be any number of things that would cause it to lose power like that, but I tend to think it sounds like either the ignition timing, or the air bleed is out of adjustment (located under a pop riveted piece of sheet metal at the top of the air horn). You may wish to have the carb serviced by a carb shop in your local area.

 

[JuuCeD82ReGaL]

Yea Thanks Cutlass. I was talking with a guy at work and he thinks its the timing also. I know the timing is off because of when I tried to set the timing awhile back, the mark was all the way at the bottom from top dead center and nowhere near the scale to adjust properly, so I just left it where it was at because it would not allow me to match the mark with the scale cause it would bogg down when I turn the distributer. Ran decent enough for me at the time. So Do you think the timing belt could have slipped? Does my 3.8 have a belt or chain? I see in the manual that v8's have the chain but the sorry *ss chiltons book doesnt get into specific detail about the v6's timing chain or belt. How hard is it to get to the timing belt to see if it is wore down or out of alignment? Is replacing and aligning them a pain???

 

[Coveted]

you may want to consider a Swap just because your luggin 500 extra lbs + driver, then if you add passengers its just a whole mess of extra weight.
I dont know about georgia laws or emissions, but a solid 350 swap could be a good start.
You might also want to consider a different rear end gear if your dealing with hIlls
Maybe a 2.73 or even a 3.08 would work better for you.
I wouldnt reccomend a 307 even tho ive got one with transmission forsale cheap, mainly because i believe they are like 140hp.
Thats not much of an improvement, and a 305 tho better isnt better by much.
A good 350 swap if you do it yourself, can be done pretty cheap.
To pay a shop, probably like 1000 all said n done, between motor trans and labor.