Olds ticket to 9s... LS swap adventure.

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We had a Griffin LS swap radiator in my brother's 78 Camaro. It didn't last long. Poor quality and worse warranty.

Thanks man, not sure what way I'm gonna go but for now old reliable stocker seems to be ok. It might be on borrowed time but it'll have to stick around for a bit longer.


You never need to be 10.0 as a target AFR. 11.0 as a target is as rich as you need to get. 10.0 will wash the cylinders quick - ask me how I know. I’m still battling with the Holley, it’s not the same as a Megasquirt, requires you to be more intuitive, but it works well.

In theory it shouldnt hit 16psi yet, boost kill catches it at 8psi. I dont think the pump 91 is going to make it past 10psi. My knock sensor got noisy at 7psi at 12 degrees. That is good to know though, I'll adjust to 11.0 for the rich overkill.
 
Took the Cutter out for a cruise today, did some wiring and got the lockup converter working. Put about 30 miles on around town and on the highway.

Had a couple conclusions.

1: Needs a damn Rad. It was mid to high 60's f today (20 C for the metrics) and temp on the highway cruising at 70MPH (110km/hr for the metrics) was 210F. I pulled 3 degrees out of the cruise area (At around 28 degrees now) and had it maintain 205f on the return highway trip. This was locked up, 2500 or so RPM and leisurely. I have sprayed out, CLR treated, cleaned the fins and burped the air several times.... Any real enjoyment will require a new rad....

2: The rear diff has a decel whine. Possibly some decel vibration? Hard to say if the wheels are balanced, I haven't even looked for weights. This may be an issue in the future, going to have to double check a few things.

3: Making the whistle is fun.

4. Without the line lock it wont spin the tires. 😉

5: Even with the Sonnax valve I am having some stalling issues when shifting in and out of gear, somewhat randomly. Trying to datalog but its not consistent, might need to add some RPM when I shift out of park or neutral...
 
What thermostat is in it? My 88 was running the same temp with a 195 thermostat, changed to a 180 Robert Shaw high flow, now runs 170 to 180. A new rad may be needed but the Grand National rad surround does help and only cost less than $100 shipped up here.
 
What thermostat is in it? My 88 was running the same temp with a 195 thermostat, changed to a 180 Robert Shaw high flow, now runs 170 to 180. A new rad may be needed but the Grand National rad surround does help and only cost less than $100 shipped up here.

The stock truck thermostat is 185 I believe. I am convinced it's the rad because when you look into it you can see the scale buildup around the inlet and outlets of the tubes in the core. The flow does not look good when the level is low and you can see it. At highway speed with the rad fan (16' semi shrouded oem electric) going I have enough fluid and air flow to keep the motor cool, but It doesnt and it wasnt even a hot day.

The GN shrouding might help, and I'll definitely look at it to add on, but my gut is telling me even a $180 crappy tire special rad is going to solve this.
 
We replaced the Griffin with a Champion. Lifetime warranty and it fit better than the Griffin. Scott has the same Champion radiator in his Cutlass.
 
We replaced the Griffin with a Champion. Lifetime warranty and it fit better than the Griffin. Scott has the same Champion radiator in his Cutlass.

I am looking for a Champion, maybe not the LS swap version but they seem like a quality part, plus I trust yours and Scotts opinions. My parts came in today for the super cheap fan/shroud combo, so I will try that first, but I think a Champion is in my future.
 
I am looking for a Champion, maybe not the LS swap version but they seem like a quality part, plus I trust yours and Scotts opinions. My parts came in today for the super cheap fan/shroud combo, so I will try that first, but I think a Champion is in my future.
If what you get takes the thread in outlet and inlet fittings, get with Scott. He came up with the manufacturer of them and got them at a discount.
 
I am looking for a Champion, maybe not the LS swap version but they seem like a quality part, plus I trust yours and Scotts opinions. My parts came in today for the super cheap fan/shroud combo, so I will try that first, but I think a Champion is in my future.
The regular G body rad from champion is #CC162. That has the driver side upper and no need for thread in fittings.
 
Update time.


What a fitting place to post this, right under everyone saying not to get a griffin rad.


So I bought a Griffin rad. 😐
(Thank you Canadian border patrol and whoever else that makes it impossible to ship stuff here for less than hundreds of dollars more than it should cost. )

Finally showed up today. Shortly after the rain stopped. so did some mock up and test fitting.

The baking sheet plan is going to be a winner.

Did some playing around to get an idea how I wanted to mount the Amazon chinesium fans, seems like this will work. Got a bit of overhang but I have a plan for that.

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I think dual 12" would have been a perfect fit, but whatever. More CFM's for more betterer coolifying

Mocked up on the factory rad the sheet pan is an EXACT fit. Like perfect.
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Mocked up to new rad. Could not ask for a better fit.
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Started cutting holes and drilling stuff. Until I got mad at my air saw, and took a time out.
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I'll get the mockup done and fans mounted until this little gem shows up. Ordered myself an extremely well reviewed AC tig machine. Because #fabricator #instagram.
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Gonna mock up tabs and mounting points then zap it on once the machine gets here.
 
Quick update.

Dropped the fuel tank today, got back into the second pump install. Tank drop was minor, set the fuel prime to 1 min and she didnt take long to pump out the 14gal of fuel in the tank.
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The Racetronix pump wiring bulkhead is an awesome piece. If you want a heavier gauge, high quality wiring solution that is made for regal tanks, this is it. Huge win. The dual pump base plate worked well, needed some tweaking but is not a bad piece. I wouldnt use it again, I would make my own, but lesson learned.
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So popped out the wiring harness, and stripped off the return line as a tab for the stock pump was in the way.
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Got the tab removed and sized up the bottom plate.
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The wiring harness bulkhead needed to be pressed on, I used a socket and C clamp. Was pretty easy. Unfortunately no pics. But here is the almost final product.

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I eventually rounded out the holes in the bottom plate to get the pumps closer together. Wired up the pumps to the harness and went to install.

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It was at this time I discovered that it was not going in the tank with the fuel level sender on the hanger.

So this happened.


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I'll have to revisit this later. For now a custom math channel to get the holley to calculate fuel burned. Yay Holley EFI.

Fired the tank back in, tested and I had to back off my regulator almost all the way to maintain my 43psi fuel pressure. Hell ya!

Next is the ethanol sensor.
 
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