Olds ticket to 9s... LS swap adventure.

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I was hoping that you would drop those pistons/rods in as is as a guinea pig, but I get it 🙂

Good excuse to validate your timing and put a pointer on it!
 
Mine goes to 6,000.... :popcorn:

You are the exception, and I appreciate that you like it spicy.


I was hoping that you would drop those pistons/rods in as is as a guinea pig, but I get it 🙂

Good excuse to validate your timing and put a pointer on it!

Man, I wanted to, I really did. Once I got the actual equation and got a really good weigh method I was seeing 18g bob weight differences from stock. Would it have been ok? Probably... Did I want to spend MORE money to slap all the goodness into the B motor? No. I need a 7000 rpm shift, shaking the bearings out at 7k isnt going to work.
 
I for one am glad you are doing the whole balancing act. I've often wondered but have never seen it documented about testing an unbalanced engine compared to balanced. In other words, power differences and harmonics. It'd be interesting to see
 
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I for one am glad you are doing the whole balancing act. I've often wondered but have never seen it documented about testing an unbalanced engine compared to balanced. In other words, power differences and harmonics. It'd be interesting to see
I would think it's more about longevity than power. A smoothly operating system is easier on components as most of the stresses have been relieved, letting them work as designed without premature failure.

I think my short block would go higher than 6k, but I need more head. Doesn't every man?
 
Hey, my mild Olds 350 saw 5000+. My fragile 403 stroker will see 5500. We don't need rod bending boost or a million rpm to make power.
 
Hey, my mild Olds 350 saw 5000+. My fragile 403 stroker will see 5500. We don't need rod bending boost or a million rpm to make power.

Very true, I need 6800 rpm to hit 160mph though.
 
It was in no way to insult your build. As long as you have a true 100+ amp alternator and your build runs on the cool side, the under drive pulley will work fine. My siamese bore 403, tiny Euro grill 88 Cutlass and supposed 100 amp alternator sucked, ran hot and under charging. Flemming runs the same pullies on his 67 that I had but his car no doubt has better air flow. I noticed my 70S runs way cooler. With those parts, your rev limiter should tickle the moon and a very good call on balancing. It is going cost me a ton to balance mine as well but I saw what an unbalanced crank spun to 5500 in a 403 does, knock, knock😢
 
Very true, I need 6800 rpm to hit 160mph though.
I have 3.50 rear gears with 26 inch tires so at 6500 rpm I'm at 200mph
Lol 😆 🤣 😂
Which is over drive and drive shaft speed at 9500 would be scary 😳
I know I don't have the horse power to move a brick that fast but 140 in drive at 6500 is very doable
 
This exact scenario happened when I was building the wagon... project scope creep. Truth is a basic cam and an LSA supercharger would have netted a better result.

The appeal of a 700hp JY engine is undeniable. The appeal of a 1000hp reliable combo is equally undeniable - but, much more expensive.

X2.

There tons of stories out there about what has been done on a stock bottom end (SBE). IIRC someone has made 1400whp on a SBE 4.8, or something darn close to it with boost in the 50-60 psi range. The issue is how many SBE's did it take before they found the perfect tune and the perfectly balanced SBE? The sloppy 8f8 calamity is descriptive enough for those that followed it - and he's a decently practiced tuner.

I fully understand properly building a motor, and I understand the expense of that as well.

Hopefully Northernregals's build can get him to his goal without boosting it to the moon (mid 20's and above). It would seem that he should be able to hit 9's reasonably with 15-18psi on a 6.0 if his turbo and plumbing are up to the task.

I know I'm down with watchin 🙂 🙂 🙂
 
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