Operation Lipstick on a Pig
- Thread starter fleming442
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DEXCOOL is the enemy!!!!!!!!!!
Along with GM's use of cheap Chinese made gaskets.
Only reason I ask is because I built one of those 3800's with a turbo.
Finding a decent donor engine was a pain in the @ss.
All of them where super high mileage and beat to sh@t.
Compression test is easy quick and will answer a lot of questions.
Along with GM's use of cheap Chinese made gaskets.
Only reason I ask is because I built one of those 3800's with a turbo.
Finding a decent donor engine was a pain in the @ss.
All of them where super high mileage and beat to sh@t.
Compression test is easy quick and will answer a lot of questions.
Had that disabled. Fuel pump runs as it should. I think there may be another wiring issue.
Turna, this "only" has 90k miles on it, but I'm seeing that they were full of neglect. I would bet my 225k mile 6L doesn't look half that bad.
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OK, figured you did. I bought a ECM for my Dakota 5.9 swap, ready to go my *ss, it did the same thing. Make sure you have constant power and everything is properly grounded. Motors can be a crap shoot. The little 260 in my 88 is sludged up, slowly cleaning it out, betting it isn't high miles either. Of course anyone running a stock 260 probably wanted it dead.
I am betting on your computer locking it out. You need to find some one with HP tuner and have them look at it. When I do this I plan to buy HP Tuner software to have. I bought a 96 Comaro engine and parts that was blown up and a front wheel drive engine with 20000 miles on it. If you go to Fast Fiero there is a lot of information on there for this swap.
Had that disabled. Fuel pump runs as it should. I think there may be another wiring issue.
Turna, this "only" he's 90k miles on it, but I'm seeing that they were full of neglect. I would bet my 225k me 6L doesn't look half that bad.
I am VERY familiar with Passlock lockout due to fighting my Silverado for so many years. The VATS lockout doesn't let it run past the fuel prime. This actually comes up to high idle, 2-3 seconds, before petering out, and the pump relay is engaged until after it dies.
Thanks for the Fiero site; haven't seen that one yet. I've been getting the best info from ls1tech so far....
Put a meter on the ignition power feed and watch when it dies. If that checks out, start going through the sensors, voltage or resistance checks and make sure they have the 5V input.
Ugh, this thing has me at wit's end. What was a consistent start then die has turned to an inconsistent start condition. I decided to do a different fuel pump that allegedly has more pressure with different bypass valve in the bottom of it- didn't work. I've replaced the crank sensor, bead blasted the ICM brackets and dielectric greased the contact points, and installed a new ICM. THE ONLY 2 sensors not replaced are the Cam Position and MAP.
TPSs check good, DBW butterfly works, tach works, oil pressure gauge works, fuel sender works, new plugs & wires, etc. I'M FREAKING LOST!!!!!!
TPSs check good, DBW butterfly works, tach works, oil pressure gauge works, fuel sender works, new plugs & wires, etc. I'M FREAKING LOST!!!!!!
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