What are your fuel trims looking like? Also, if it ran bad enough to get a misfire code you might have freeze frame data stored in the computer.
Operation Lipstick on a Pig
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I really wish I could help but this just isn't my bag so I came up with a formula
Wires+cutter+sbo+carb=smooth.....
Glad to help👍
Wires+cutter+sbo+carb=smooth.....
Glad to help👍
I wasn't looking at converters.... someone mentioned it, maybe...
Anyway, I checked the coil packs, and got 6.17, 6.16, and 6.16k ohms. So I'd say they'r good.
On to fuel: put a gauge on it, and 40psi free rev in park to 6,000. Put it in gear and powerbraked it to 4000, pressure dropped to 20. Seems to be vacuum related, no?
Also, reflashed the PCM and corrected the speedo, but it didn't help either.
Somehow, the P0140 (downstream O2 sensor) got turned back on while it was sitting, so we turned that off- no more check engine light.
Anyway, I checked the coil packs, and got 6.17, 6.16, and 6.16k ohms. So I'd say they'r good.
On to fuel: put a gauge on it, and 40psi free rev in park to 6,000. Put it in gear and powerbraked it to 4000, pressure dropped to 20. Seems to be vacuum related, no?
Also, reflashed the PCM and corrected the speedo, but it didn't help either.
Somehow, the P0140 (downstream O2 sensor) got turned back on while it was sitting, so we turned that off- no more check engine light.
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It may be your ignition control module. i had that issue with my wife's old firebird.
At first I changed the coils then it was the module.
Now that I think about.
At first I changed the coils then it was the module.
Now that I think about.
Disconnect the vac reference from the regulator. Hook up a gage that can go inside the car and drive around. I would suspect plugged filter or weak pump.
Or, reset the fuel trims with HPtuners. Drive down the road and see if the LTFT or STFT are adding percentage. If over 20% it will throw a check engine light, or at least it did for my l67 fbird.
Also, check to make sure you engine coolant temp and air temp sensors are reading what they should be. I had the issue where my new coolant temp sensor on my l67 fbird was scaled like 100F negative and it thought the coolant temp was like 0F when it was 100F so fueling was all off and got bad mileage, ran rough, and would start poorly.
Or, reset the fuel trims with HPtuners. Drive down the road and see if the LTFT or STFT are adding percentage. If over 20% it will throw a check engine light, or at least it did for my l67 fbird.
Also, check to make sure you engine coolant temp and air temp sensors are reading what they should be. I had the issue where my new coolant temp sensor on my l67 fbird was scaled like 100F negative and it thought the coolant temp was like 0F when it was 100F so fueling was all off and got bad mileage, ran rough, and would start poorly.
I appreciate all the info, but it's all over my head. I'm a part swapper- not much of a troubleshooter.
The more I think about it, the more I think I have the fuel lines backwards. I can't remember if I went with the little rhyme I made up or not (wire tie=supply). The tie is on the return now.....
Feed is front. 3/8" feed 5/16" return. Pressure to the return side might have blown the regulator.
If you only have 20 PSI power breaking that is a problem. It should be more. 95-99 pressure is different than 00+.
The pressure should go up as the throttle is cracked as there is less effective negative pressure on the other side of the injector. They will build vac almost instantly though in my experience at idle so its tough to see if the FPR is working with vac reference.
Engine off, key on, pressure check, should be say 50PSI
Engine on, pressure check, at idle should be roughly 10-13 PSI less than with engine off to compensate for negative pressure in the manifold, say 40PSI.
At cruise it should be roughly 5PSI less than at engine off key on.
http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forum...llo-all-need-fuel-pressure-specs-for-series-2
If you only have 20 PSI power breaking that is a problem. It should be more. 95-99 pressure is different than 00+.
The pressure should go up as the throttle is cracked as there is less effective negative pressure on the other side of the injector. They will build vac almost instantly though in my experience at idle so its tough to see if the FPR is working with vac reference.
Engine off, key on, pressure check, should be say 50PSI
Engine on, pressure check, at idle should be roughly 10-13 PSI less than with engine off to compensate for negative pressure in the manifold, say 40PSI.
At cruise it should be roughly 5PSI less than at engine off key on.
http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forum...llo-all-need-fuel-pressure-specs-for-series-2
Lines were correct- looks like a clogged filter. Cleaned it out, and all seems to be good. One wheel peels for days!
Awesome congratulations how is it out on the road with the gears in it?
Well, it is still missing a couple cylinders and it's still too freakin loud, but not bad- rolls out pretty good. Wageslave doesn't stand a chance!
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