Operation Lipstick on a Pig

[fleming442]

26mpg!!! I think I'm on the right track with the fuel gauge. Now that I've established a safe range (300+ miles), I tried a 1500 ohm resistor to ground on the sender lead. The gauge would peg full at startup, then dive to empty triggering the 'check gauges' light, and stay there for about 150 miles before returning to full. After that, it was another 150 miles down to 1/4 tank. So far, the resistor had it return to full after just 37 miles. We'll see how realistic the needle acts now. I may try another 500 ohm resistor to bring it up to 2k as that is what the TSB for the 87-93 B'villes suggests. GM Legos!!!
I still have a problem with fuel delivery- it will stall after a hard exit ramp when completely full, and it also died going around the traffic circle leaving work when the tank was low. Seems like the sump in the tank isn't sufficient (alleged 87 Monte TBI tank) for the low level stall. But the full stall has me baffled (pun intended); maybe the EVAP or return are being overcome when the fuel sloshes to one side? If it's full, it's obviously not uncovering the pickup.....

 

[UNGN]

I still have a problem with fuel delivery- it will stall after a hard exit ramp when completely full, and it also died going around the traffic circle leaving work when the tank was low. Seems like the sump in the tank isn't sufficient (alleged 87 Monte TBI tank) for the low level stall. But the full stall has me baffled (pun intended); maybe the EVAP or return are being overcome when the fuel sloshes to one side? If it's full, it's obviously not uncovering the pickup.....

My '86 T-type shut off on aggressive on ramps with less than 1/2 a tank. The 1/4 mile tracks were always 65-100 miles from where I lived and I would start out towards them with less than 1/2 tank, because I had 5 gallons of race gas in the trunk. The car would always starve at the same spots on the route.

G-body factory tank "baffling" is for acceleration only and NOT for modern tires + sway bars.

 

[Turbolq4]

26!! That's getting into econobox territory!! Awesome work!

 

[olds307 and 403]

Awesome, that is 31 mpg imperial, we got 32 on long warm weather trips with our 2010 3.5 Dodge Challenger.

 

[fleming442]

Update time: last tank was back down to 23 due to schooling a 328i from a 70mph roll on the highway. Kid got scared, couldn't hang, so doesn't really count as a kill.
I put another resistor in line get up to the TSB spec. That didn't work so good. What I really need is a rheostat that I can adjust to find the necessary reading to keep the fuel gauge at full instead of diving to empty.
After about 1500 miles, I have to say it performs pretty dang well. It still downshifts a few times during the commute, but recovers decently. Having Pandora on the radio is awesome.
I still want to change the muffler and finish the dash bezel. Also need to replace the outer tie rod ends.

 

[Wageslave]

If you order one, make sure you get a variable resistor with a linear range instead of one with an audio taper. Otherwise, it will be super touchy at one end of its adjustment and do hardly nothing at the other end.

 

[Canon_Mutant]

Finally got caught up on past reading. This has turned out quite well with all the numerous twists and turns and even near death project experiences.

Maybe you should write a book I should read?

 

[fleming442]

Finally got caught up on past reading. This has turned out quite well with all the numerous twists and turns and even near death project experiences.

Maybe you should write a book I should read?

You just did- with pictures!😛
Thanks, Garth. How about you adopt me?😀

 

[fleming442]

So, now that I have the outer tie rod situation straightened out, I am looking at getting a real alignment underway. There aren't many shops that will mess with the older cars, yet alone "custom" settings per UNGN's high speed experience. My buddy has one of the SPC Fastrax gauges and I was doing an oil change, so I figured I'd throw it on there before I jacked it up. Here's what I got off an eyeball without getting into lasers and a tape measure:
Driver: +1.5° caster, +.25° camber
Passenger: +1° caster, -1° camber

Now, for the $64,000 question: how the **** do I achieve the recommended +5° caster? I get that camber will be equal shims front and back on the cross shaft, but which end for caster? To me, initially, it would be additional shim in the rear, no?

 

[Canon_Mutant]

I have found this resource incredibly helpful Bruce.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0910-diy-alignment-guide/