Project 85 Black 442 frame off restoration

[joesregalproject]

They banned the sale of body shop primer and paint to the general public in BC. This was a smart move.

No personal offense there friend, but that is a perfect example of why I am thankful to live in the USA, where I usually get to choose what's best - not some bureaucrat.

I can still buy paint, potato chips, Coca Cola and guns. All of the things that other governments KNOW are bad for me....

x2, I don't need some politician controlling every aspect of my life. But the way it's looking, the US is gonna slowly follow Canada's lead right into that crap.

 

[Burnhard]

In the shops that I was in we used all brands of auto body paint. I'm not against these products I enjoyed the auto body trade . I just feel that they are for the spraybooth with the right safety gear.Not the home garare/carport/shed/etc
All the old tech paint/primer/clear coat had Iso cynates in the hardner/activator.Auto body products were made for the auto body trade not for the back yarder.

Some old school paint and primer had lead and mercury and other heavy metal in them. So when you sand/grind paint
on your car the lead becomes air born as well as what ever was in the solids.

Auto body old tech two part/component paint/ primer/ clear
You have your paint that is made up of solids, pigment,binders,etc
Then you have your reducer/solvent
Then you have your hardner/activater = iso cynate

Last time I was in a body shop was two years ago and had a good discussion with the guys head painter,prep man,and manager we talked about the new water born paint and were the trade was going. They said that the clear still had iso cynate hardner.

I do not know what primer/paint tech that you are using new old?

I do not want to hijack your thread. I like your build and Thank You for what you are doing for the G body community.
Good luck with the rest of your build.

Burnhard, Thanks for the kind words.

To answer your question about the type of product I am using which is a Keystone Epoxy Prime made by Cumberland...rubber seal...pretty sure. I am pretty sure it would be considered new technology, but thanks for the information as I will look into types of products I am using and be aware of the information that you brought up

Sorry I don't know that brand.You can call the paint manufacture and talk to there tech department if you have questions.

 

[tobyp]

ok, back to the build right?

Was able to get alot done to the drivers side over the past few evenings. I was able to get the rocker sized, front a piller post bottom in place, and also get the outer lower wheel house in place ready for attachment to the inner and outer rocker panel. I was able to grab one of my monte carlo door shells I have that I am fixing to test gap fitment, which was quite handy and the shell allowed me to gap the rocker correct and tack it into place correctly. Next steps will be a final weld, sand and grind, etch prime and start on the passenger side, which I am in need of a good outer rocker panel if anyone out there can come up with one.

 

[clean8485]

Nice work. Glad to see that you're restoring the car as well as this. Keep the updates coming.

 

[tobyp]

got a decent donor trunk floor and body mount braces. I actually received an entire back half floor board from the back seat floor to the trunk. Anyways, seperated the trunk deck floor, and also the back seat floor and noticed a bit of rusting around the floor body mount (rear). The mount itself was ok, just the outer layer skin was rusted a bit. So it got cut out, sand blasted, etch primed and new piece welded in place. Next step will be sandblasting the rest of the floor and getting a good layer of epoxy primer and top coating with chassis saver satin black, taking the old trunk floor board completely out and welding in the new trunk floor.

 

[tobyp]

Got to finally epoxy prime and topcoat with chassis saver my LCA, UCA, front bumper shocks and other odds and ends. I will be sandblasting and using the chassis saver appied by HVLP to all non sunlight exposed suspension and under side panels. When this product is applied over an epoxy primer it is harder than powder coating. It gives a nice sheen and matches the frame well.

Next step to the trunk floor pan, I need to get this body strong enough for the rotisorie

 

[tobyp]

So I took advantage of a warm afternoon to make a sandblasting room out of my first up tent. It's hillbilly..but it works quite well. THe only issue I had was moisture in the air making the media stick quite a bit. I started the floor pan and 4 hours later....after much cussing and complaining decided to pick another less humid day to sandblast. Regardless, the results are very nice. I look forward to getting a nice coat of epoxy and chassis saver on this piece.

 

[Bweavy]

Heidi is up for saint hood.

So no sand went any where or?

 

[tobyp]

Heidi is up for saint hood.

So no sand went any where or?

nope, no sand went out of the tent

 

[tobyp]

ok, so it took too much time and I coughed up enough crap from sandblasting in my hillbilly sandblast room I decided to remove as much grime and crap from the trunk floor with a wire wheel and KBS brand paint stripper...that I must add is good stuff. This way I can go back into my tent this weekend and do a quick sandblast of the surface and prep it for paint. While I was out in the garage I sandblasted the spindles as well. I try to get enough items cleaned up so doing the epoxy prime and chassis saver is worth getting all out and cleaning up after. Getting closer to tearing out the trunk floor!