Yes. I even printed a copy of the listing from Amazon’s website. Since this will not be a daily driver, hopefully they will last 10 years.
PROJECT " LAID BACK 2 " - 1978 SALON 2 DOOR AEROBACK
- Thread starter JAMCAR223
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Thanks for the tip. I purchased a couple too. I daily mine in the summer. I'll let you know on the quality.
Lift is here and installed. Some of you guys have already seen it in the "What did you do to your shop today?" thread.
Finally got around to cutting, and installing the coils springs. Moog #5660 with a half coil removed. An "inside the coil" type of compressor was used to install these springs. If you didn't know, installing coil springs into a bare chassis can be tough with no weight on the frame. You go to jack up the lower control arm to attach the spindle, and with no opposing force ( motor / body ) on the frame, it makes it hard to attach the spindle. You can see in the pic, I compressed the coil 2" and had no trouble at all getting the spindle attached. The key is to get the spring as short as possible so you can push up on the lower control arm to attach the spindle.
Spindles attached.
I removed the ABS wiring from the Detroit Axle hubs, and installed the Riff Raff greaseable zerk fittings.
Got new u-joints. Going to install these, and paint the driveshaft in the next few days.
I have made (2) trips to the machine shop lately, and they have started on my motor. I should have it back in (3) weeks. Hoping for the best 🤞.
Finally got around to cutting, and installing the coils springs. Moog #5660 with a half coil removed. An "inside the coil" type of compressor was used to install these springs. If you didn't know, installing coil springs into a bare chassis can be tough with no weight on the frame. You go to jack up the lower control arm to attach the spindle, and with no opposing force ( motor / body ) on the frame, it makes it hard to attach the spindle. You can see in the pic, I compressed the coil 2" and had no trouble at all getting the spindle attached. The key is to get the spring as short as possible so you can push up on the lower control arm to attach the spindle.
Spindles attached.
I removed the ABS wiring from the Detroit Axle hubs, and installed the Riff Raff greaseable zerk fittings.
Got new u-joints. Going to install these, and paint the driveshaft in the next few days.
I have made (2) trips to the machine shop lately, and they have started on my motor. I should have it back in (3) weeks. Hoping for the best 🤞.
When I did coils on my Crown Vic, same design, I did them easily with no compressor and no fear for my life. You think you could have gotten them in if you had more weight on the front? I'll be doing coils at some point in the Monte myself, so want to be mentally prepared for whatever lie ahead
The spring compressor was used because I had no opposing weight on the frame. I have done this a couple times in the past while doing frame off restorations, and at no point was I afraid. Tips - lubricate the threaded shaft of the compressor before, and during use. Operate the tool with a 1/2" hand ratchet, DO NOT use an air impact, as you lose the "feel" of the tool, and you can strip the threads on the shaft. There are other ways to do this job - ratchet straps around the frame & a floor jack. Strapping the frame to the floor, if you work in a body shop.. I'm not going into those scenarios. The way I do it is easy, and in my opinion... safe.
Got the other side (driver) parking brake cable.
Last weekend I installed new AC Delco u-joints in the driveshaft. Used my Bernzomatic hand held torch to melt the glue out of the u joints. Then used an air hammer to remove the old u joints. Cleaned the holes with a scotchbrite pad, and used the vice to press in the new joints. No press needed.
Today I cleaned the drive shaft on the wire wheel, gave it (2) coats of primer, then (3) coats of chassis paint. I polished the yoke on the wire wheel. Turned out great. I have $25 in this renewed drive shaft.
Never mind the plant hiding in the garage.^^^
I cleaned the original pitman arm on the wire wheel, and painted it also.
And new shoes !! US Mags "Rambler" Front: 17x7 w/ 225-45-17 Road Hugger GT Ultra tires. Rear: 17x8 w/ 245-45-17 Road Hugger GT Ultra tires. ( I still have the 18" Camaro Rallys ).
I have a Discount Tire at the front of my neighborhood, and got the tires from them. They did a great job, and did not f-up my wheels. They gave me nice chrome valve stems, and since the back side of the rim is black, they used black weights. 👍
Last weekend I installed new AC Delco u-joints in the driveshaft. Used my Bernzomatic hand held torch to melt the glue out of the u joints. Then used an air hammer to remove the old u joints. Cleaned the holes with a scotchbrite pad, and used the vice to press in the new joints. No press needed.
Today I cleaned the drive shaft on the wire wheel, gave it (2) coats of primer, then (3) coats of chassis paint. I polished the yoke on the wire wheel. Turned out great. I have $25 in this renewed drive shaft.
Never mind the plant hiding in the garage.^^^
I cleaned the original pitman arm on the wire wheel, and painted it also.
And new shoes !! US Mags "Rambler" Front: 17x7 w/ 225-45-17 Road Hugger GT Ultra tires. Rear: 17x8 w/ 245-45-17 Road Hugger GT Ultra tires. ( I still have the 18" Camaro Rallys ).
I have a Discount Tire at the front of my neighborhood, and got the tires from them. They did a great job, and did not f-up my wheels. They gave me nice chrome valve stems, and since the back side of the rim is black, they used black weights. 👍
Thanks! I think they will look good on the car. White paint w/ all black trim.
I have not forgotten. I have a couple of options now.
Guys, not trying to scare anyone but hope y'all have better luck with the Detroit axle hubs than I did. Mine only lasted a couple hundred miles before making noise!!!! I thought I had a clamping issue with the caliper, but it was the hubs.
I went to Napa and forked out loot on Napa house brand which are actually SKF units.
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