If the harness is too short to reach all the way around, and the kick panel is too much trouble, what about running a shallower non-ac glove box inner and using the newfound space behind the closed glove box to mount it up inside the dash?
If the harness is too short to reach all the way around, and the kick panel is too much trouble, what about running a shallower non-ac glove box inner and using the newfound space behind the closed glove box to mount it up inside the dash?
This is what we did on my brother's 78 Z28. We used a PSI harness which was setup for the PCM to be in the cockpit. It was too short to follow the routing of a G-body CCC harness though. It was setup to pass through the firewall just behind the passenger bank of fuel injectors. We put the PCM behind the glove box.
It all depends on how the harness is setup and if you want to modify it. Having the PCM under the hood doesn't look as smooth but might be easier. What harness are you running?
This is what we did on my brother's 78 Z28. We used a PSI harness which was setup for the PCM to be in the cockpit. It was too short to follow the routing of a G-body CCC harness though. It was setup to pass through the firewall just behind the passenger bank of fuel injectors. We put the PCM behind the glove box.
It all depends on how the harness is setup and if you want to modify it. Having the PCM under the hood doesn't look as smooth but might be easier. What harness are you running?
I'm using the Holley Terminator system. After searching and getting several answers most are either using the factory hole or drilling another behind the intake and mounting the ecm near the glove box or in the p/s kick panel.
Picked away at the car today and got some things done. Installed the headers temporarily. Had to dimple one tube on the right side where it's close to the frame. Drivers side will require trimming of the lower a arm mounting tab but that should be it.
Installed the throttle body adapter, throttle body, fuel rails, Deka injectors, drivers side coil packs, laid the harness over the engine and figured out how it's going to run. Also got the radiator hoses in I was hoping would work. Bottom will be great, upper is a tick too short. I can cut it and install a length of tubing in it, but I'd like to find a one piece hose that fits. That can come.later though.
I love your car. Its definitely 1 of my favorites on the forum.I'd like to use those speed engineering headers with holley mounts but im not sure if the mounts will make the headers hit the crossmember.How close are the headers to the crossmember? Have you decided on a clutch yet? I'm looking forward to seeing the install. Good luck.
If you are OK dropping another $300, griffin has dual pass radiator that cleans stuff up a lot.
I have speed engineering 4th gen F body headers on my GP, they have the same issue on the upper control arm you do. I almost bet they are the same part.
I recommend the Champion over the Griffin, if you were to go this way. The Griffin only lasted 4,000 pampered miles in my brother's LS Swapped 78 Z28 (same radiator for an LS swap in a G-Body). I hope 81cutlass gets better service out of his. Griffin doesn't stand behind it either. The Champion is made overseas but lifetime warranty and good workmanship. It's been in my brother's car for three years now. I agree with using the swap radiator. It really cleans it up instead of having that super long upper hose.
I love your car. Its definitely 1 of my favorites on the forum.I'd like to use those speed engineering headers with holley mounts but im not sure if the mounts will make the headers hit the crossmember.How close are the headers to the crossmember? Have you decided on a clutch yet? I'm looking forward to seeing the install. Good luck.
Thank you for compliment! The headers end a ways in front of the transmission crossmember if that's what you mean. They don't come close to the engine crossmember with the ICT mounts. Don't use Holley mounts. Use the ICT billet mounts with stock clamshells. Plus they are only like $39 IIRC Yes I already bought a clutch. Using a stock LUK replacement for an LS7. Figured if it could hold up to 505hp it should up to this.
If you are OK dropping another $300, griffin has dual pass radiator that cleans stuff up a lot.
I have speed engineering 4th gen F body headers on my GP, they have the same issue on the upper control arm you do. I almost bet they are the same part.
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