BUILD THREAD Project Olds Cool (Recognition!!)

[Rktpwrd]

Oh, and just an addendum to the above post, I feel “kinda” sorry for you guys. This fall is pretty much a carbon copy of last year’s work, and you all have to sit through the same stuff you’ve seen me do before.
But it’s progress, and I want to show all the hard work and effort that’s still going into it.

I am on the homestretch now however, there’s not much left to do before it gets torn completely down for final block sanding for paint. I’m still very much aiming to have it in color by late spring.

So please bear with me, the end is in sight!

 

[Canon_Mutant]

Slacker! 🤣

Hard to believe but I am actually making progress. I just cannot get to the paragraphs and pictures point . . .

And let's face it. It's paragraphs and pictures OR tire smoke . . . or it just ain't happenin'

 

[Rktpwrd]

Ok, so I didn’t get to shooting color on the inside of the fender tonight, not enough time after dinner (and an unplanned nap).
Lol

So I just piddled around with some smaller stuff, got the bolts and shims that were originally missed blasted...

...then separated and painted respectively.

The two tiny silver screws are to mount the factory hood light, they were looking a little shabby so I shot them at the same time as the shims with some VHT Cast Aluminum. After mounting the light, I also installed some brand new split loom over the wiring.
Looks better already:

InjectedCutty hooked me up with the hood spring from his stock steel hood earlier this month to replace my pranged one, so after getting color on it yesterday I was finally able to reinstall it and the hood catch. This finally lets me put a big “X” through this loose end. Thanks Scott.

The only other real order of business was something I did on the weekend, but didn’t include in yesterday’s post. I had picked up a torpedo style LED bulb...

...and replaced the standard incandescent bulb in the dome light. Cleaner and brighter light, and best of all, no more burnt or discoloured lenses.
🙂

I kinda dropped the ball tho, as I forgot to grab matching bulbs for the adjacent map lights. Probably go back next weekend and grab those too, along with the courtesy ones for the floor under the dash.

That’s it for now, looking after all these niggling little details are probably what drive most guys nuts, but I actually enjoy it. The devil is in the details as they say, and nothing improves an overall appearance more than having everything nicely detailed IMO.

Hopefully tomorrow night I can stay conscious after dinner long enough to get the inside of this fender shot.
🤞🏻

D.

 

[Canon_Mutant]

Holy Crap! You are blasting and painting your bolts? Well, I never . . . 😵

Oh, yeah, I’m swapping ALL of my metric bolts to (mostly) stainless SAE . . . 🤔 oh, just because . . .

We need to start a “who is the most anal” support group thread?

 

[Injectedcutty]

The progress is looking killer D, it's nice seeing the fender all one color after getting the flush mount mod done! Hopefully that finger is healing up too so that you can keep hammering away on paint by spring time.

 

[69hurstolds]

Holy Crap! You are blasting and painting your bolts? Well, I never . . . 😵

Oh, yeah, I’m swapping ALL of my metric bolts to (mostly) stainless SAE . . . 🤔 oh, just because . . .

We need to start a “who is the most anal” support group thread?

Just make sure your stainless bolts are in places able to handle the required stresses. Equivalent size stainless are usually more plastic/ductile than graded steel bolts.

It seems a bit crazy to refurbish the bolts, but I'm more insane than that in some respects. I've amassed a truckload of NOS fasteners for mine where I probably went overboard with that. Interesting, I couldn't get all the NOS bolts exactly like the factory. For example, they replaced the tri-lobular body mount bolts with regular bolts and simple silver flanged crimp nuts for the green nylock yellow cad plated flange nuts for the master cylinder. Didn't know that until I got a box of body bolts from the dealer with regular bolt threads, silver nuts, etc. Nobody will see most of them anyway, but I know.

True, there are some that will need tumbling/refinishing, but D's progress is crazy on the details. Injectedcutty 's and oldsofb 's builds (prepping and painting EVERYTHING front and back and an excellent HVAC rebuild respectively) are a couple more that count the thread engagements on their fasteners and wonder why nobody else does. There are others, as well that pay attention to the extreme details. This is what makes a good resto/rectification great.

 

[Injectedcutty]

Just make sure your stainless bolts are in places able to handle the required stresses. Equivalent size stainless are usually more plastic/ductile than graded steel bolts.

It seems a bit crazy to refurbish the bolts, but I'm more insane than that in some respects. I've amassed a truckload of NOS fasteners for mine where I probably went overboard with that. Interesting, I couldn't get all the NOS bolts exactly like the factory. For example, they replaced the tri-lobular body mount bolts with regular bolts and simple silver flanged crimp nuts for the green nylock yellow cad plated flange nuts for the master cylinder. Didn't know that until I got a box of body bolts from the dealer with regular bolt threads, silver nuts, etc. Nobody will see most of them anyway, but I know.

True, there are some that will need tumbling/refinishing, but D's progress is crazy on the details. Injectedcutty 's and oldsofb 's builds (prepping and painting EVERYTHING front and back and an excellent HVAC rebuild respectively) are a couple more that count the thread engagements on their fasteners and wonder why nobody else does. There are others, as well that pay attention to the extreme details. This is what makes a good resto/rectification great.

Yep, yep and yep. It helps I worked in the fastener industry for a good bit, and seeing what stress can do to fasteners will make ya think twice about using corrosion resistant stuff in areas where tensile strength is paramount.
No joke, watching a class 8.8 or grade 5 equivalent bend under stress instead of snap like a quenched class 10.9, 12.9, grade 8, or 304, 316, A2 and A4 equivalents changed my thinking and I've employed that into my build as does others. I have strong hardware where needed, and pretty stuff where it's ok to have it.

Done now, back to D's amazing work!

 

[fleming442]

You mean "hey, I caught a thread and got a full turn on it" isn't good practice?

 

[Rktpwrd]

You mean "hey, I caught a thread and got a full turn on it" isn't good practice?

Industry standard, 3 full threads past the end of the nut!

 

[Canon_Mutant]

Yup, hence the word (mostly). My grade 5s are mostly if not all Armor Coats and the 8s are just yellow zinc since we learned good ole cadmium causes 3 headed toad babies.

For the record, I actually “love” the details D. You have actually reminded to go back and check some things I forgot about.

In rare cases, even before I did it twice!