BUILD THREAD Project Olds Cool (Recognition!!)

[Rktpwrd]

Awww, y’all are gonna make me blush if ya keep that up!
😅

But seriously, thank you all. I appreciate it. It sounds like some of you are amazed at seeing the repair process, but I assure you, I’m not doing anything out of the ordinary that thousands of thankless body techs across the nation don’t already do on a daily basis for a paycheque.

But I will say, having all the right tools for the job (and maybe a little bit of experience) can make all the difference.

Steel is actually a pretty forgiving medium to work with despite what you’d think. One thing to remember is, once it’s formed, it almost always wants to return to it’s original shape. The repairing process is all about pulling out the damage in the right areas while relieving stress in others. If done correctly, the metal will naturally want to return to how it originally was shaped.

Just don’t ask me to demonstrate shrinking metal. It’s a very difficult technique to learn, and even harder to do correctly. I had to do a series of shrinks in the quarter panel of Mike’s ‘57 Chevy out of necessity, and it was a major pain.

 

[Rktpwrd]

The filling and blocking process has started.

No power tools to help things out or shortcuts here, it’s just physical sweat equity (literally) that has to be invested. Damn good way to burn off all them extra Christmas calories.

Finished in 40 grit, will start seeing a lot more transparency through the filler after 80.

Then it looks like I’m gonna have to pick up some more finishing putty for the final skim and blocking, I don’t have enough to do the job.
😕

 

[melloelky]

is that jitterbug paper on the bench?or am i not seeing the length?

 

[Pc3]

Donavan when you use the rust converter
For example inside the door. Can you just leave it as is.or should it be coated with at least a primer

 

[fleming442]

Sanding SUCKS!! You can have ALL my sanding!

 

[Rktpwrd]

is that jitterbug paper on the bench?or am i not seeing the length?

Chris, it’s used pieces of the 3M hook and loop paper that you’re seeing there. I save some of the worn but still clean pieces to start sanding with, in case the filler is still a bit tacky. That way it clogs up old used paper rather than a new piece.

The paper itself is 3M’s purple “clean sanding” sheet roll stuff, with perforations to fit any length of block.

I bought it for use with the long 24” block pictured on the door, conventional long block paper isn’t long enough to fit that block.

 

[melloelky]

I'm fimilar with the continuous rolls.i saw the holes in the paper and it reminded me of the jitterbug paper and had to ask..oh bad times gone by.🙂

 

[Rktpwrd]

Donavan when you use the rust converter
For example inside the door. Can you just leave it as is.or should it be coated with at least a primer

Manny you could probably leave it “as is” but for complete protection I wouldn’t recommend it. The rust converter is really just a mild acid solution that stops the active corrosion process. I feel encapsulating it further with epoxy primer is the best practice. That’s why in all the seams and other areas I had rust, I treat it with converter first, then apply epoxy over top.

 

[Rktpwrd]

I'm fimilar with the continuous rolls.i saw the holes in the paper and it reminded me of the jitterbug paper and had to ask..oh bad times gone by.🙂

Oh I know, I hear you there. I remember having the old vacuum hose hooked up to the DA and other sanders in shops I’ve worked at. Good idea in theory, but a PITA to work with.

 

[Rktpwrd]

Sanding SUCKS!! You can have ALL my sanding!

Still much rather do that than masking!!
🤮