Oh, and I'm totally stealing the flush B-pillar trick, too!
BUILD THREAD Project Olds Cool (Recognition!!)
- Thread starter Rktpwrd
- Start date
OMG, now I'm gonna hafta go back through 254 pages to find this.😂
‘Nother update, because there ain’t no lollygagging goin’ on here!
The car is now 100% completely blocked out, I finished up the tops of the doors and underneath the quarter glass mouldings in 320 a couple days ago.
Here she is now in all her dusty glory:
That means I’m into repair mode now. By rights, I should probably be starting from the top and working down fixing all the little issues I come across, but I figured it might actually be better to go after the worst offenders first. That means the trunk lid and hood. So with that mindset, I tackled the trunk first. Sanded all the areas that I knew were going to be too low to fill with more primer in 180 grit, then skimmed them with some USC polyester finishing putty:
This stuff is safe to apply over properly cured and sanded topcoats including primer.
Then blocked with 80, 120, 180, and 220. Felt like I was starting all over again!
The tape on the edges and the masking paper underneath is to catch any “oopsies”. This putty is quite runny which is great for filling low spots and pinholes, but you really gotta watch the edges. It’ll drip right off before you know it.
Once I finished blocking it out and addressed all the edges, I gave it a thorough wipe down with wax and grease remover then masked it up.
This bish is ready for another 4 coats of high build!
Some of you might be wondering why I’m getting ready to shoot primer on just this panel already? There’s lots more little repairs to do on the rest of the car, why not just repair everything first, then prime everything at the same time?
Couple reasons.
First of all, it’s much easier to tackle the entire car if you break it down into one panel at a time. Get just this panel done, get it right, then move onto the next. That’s gonna include blocking it out to 220 again without burning through anywhere. Fingers crossed there. 🤞🏻
Second, it’s a lot less daunting of a task to mask just one panel than it is the whole car. And we all know how much I love masking. Sure, I’ll use more tape and paper that way, but those are relatively cheap in the big scheme of things.
And thirdly and most importantly, the Omni high build primer I’m using has an extremely short pot life. At a maximum of only 5 minutes flash time between coats, I’m damn lucky to get 4 full wet coats on before it begins to harden and becomes unusable. There’s almost no possible way I could go around the whole car and get coverage on everything I’ll need to with that small a spraying window.
So yeah, there ya have it. The update, such as it is. Repairs have begun, the trunk will get shot Saturday, and once the trunk is right I’ll move onto the hood.
Until then, cheers!
D.
The car is now 100% completely blocked out, I finished up the tops of the doors and underneath the quarter glass mouldings in 320 a couple days ago.
Here she is now in all her dusty glory:
That means I’m into repair mode now. By rights, I should probably be starting from the top and working down fixing all the little issues I come across, but I figured it might actually be better to go after the worst offenders first. That means the trunk lid and hood. So with that mindset, I tackled the trunk first. Sanded all the areas that I knew were going to be too low to fill with more primer in 180 grit, then skimmed them with some USC polyester finishing putty:
This stuff is safe to apply over properly cured and sanded topcoats including primer.
Then blocked with 80, 120, 180, and 220. Felt like I was starting all over again!
The tape on the edges and the masking paper underneath is to catch any “oopsies”. This putty is quite runny which is great for filling low spots and pinholes, but you really gotta watch the edges. It’ll drip right off before you know it.
Once I finished blocking it out and addressed all the edges, I gave it a thorough wipe down with wax and grease remover then masked it up.
This bish is ready for another 4 coats of high build!
Some of you might be wondering why I’m getting ready to shoot primer on just this panel already? There’s lots more little repairs to do on the rest of the car, why not just repair everything first, then prime everything at the same time?
Couple reasons.
First of all, it’s much easier to tackle the entire car if you break it down into one panel at a time. Get just this panel done, get it right, then move onto the next. That’s gonna include blocking it out to 220 again without burning through anywhere. Fingers crossed there. 🤞🏻
Second, it’s a lot less daunting of a task to mask just one panel than it is the whole car. And we all know how much I love masking. Sure, I’ll use more tape and paper that way, but those are relatively cheap in the big scheme of things.
And thirdly and most importantly, the Omni high build primer I’m using has an extremely short pot life. At a maximum of only 5 minutes flash time between coats, I’m damn lucky to get 4 full wet coats on before it begins to harden and becomes unusable. There’s almost no possible way I could go around the whole car and get coverage on everything I’ll need to with that small a spraying window.
So yeah, there ya have it. The update, such as it is. Repairs have begun, the trunk will get shot Saturday, and once the trunk is right I’ll move onto the hood.
Until then, cheers!
D.
Donovan
Once you complete these repairs, are you ready to shoot base coat over the high build? Or will you use a final primer sealer or ? Sorry for jumping the gun but confusion remains for me in the process and steps before base coat.
Thanks again for everything...
I’ll be applying the paint directly over top of the final sanded high build primer. It used to be done this way back in the day, and it still works fine today. The final finish that the paint will be applied over will be 600 grit wet.
I’ll probably get flamed for saying this, but it’s my personal preference. I haven’t had one person yet that can convince me why a sealer (read epoxy primer mixed a little thinner) is a necessary step before paint. To me it’s one more unnecessary step, an unnecessary expenditure on time and materials, and one more thing that can go wrong just before paint. Get one run in the sealer at this stage, and your booth time is out the window while you wait for it to dry and sand it out.
Also, there’s the consideration of build thickness. More material = more build thickness. More build thickness leads to the easier possibility of stone impacts taking deep chunks out, and less defined body lines. I’m just not a fan of that school of thought.
I really have no idea when or why everybody thought it would be a good idea to jump on this “sealer before paint” bandwagon in the last few years. The only advantage I see to it is that the finish doesn’t have to be 100% perfect with no burn throughs or bare metal edges. The sealer will provide protection and adhesion there. That’s it.
To each their own in this respect.
That thing is gonna be like glass. That's been polished. Can't wait to see it!
Is this the garbage you speak of? Im glad it was only 10 bucks.Thank you Jeff. I really appreciate the support. It all helps, especially at this stage.
😊
Yes, I will be able to use finishing putty here, not spot putty. Forget about spot putty, that stuff is garbage. It’s non-catalyzed and shrinks as it dries.
For the finishing putty I just have to lightly sand the low areas first with the proper grit so it adheres well, either with 180 or 120. it’s a bit of an educated guess based mostly on experience to know which lows will fill with another application of high build, and which will need a skim and blocking with putty first.
You don't know what you don't know right? Thanks for the knowledge drop. Also thanks for your compressor advice. I've had virtually no water issues since. You saved me time and money on that one. Cant wait to see it finished.
Yep, that be the stuff.
Grasp that tube firmly in hand, walk to your garage door, open it up and stand squarely in the doorway. Do a couple of quick stretches to limber up, then wind all the way back with your strongest arm and heave that thing as far as you can in one fluid motion.
Or maybe jam it under the door to prop it open and let fresh air in, I dunno. Up to you because those are the purposes it’s best suited for IMO.
Seriously though, unless you’re filling a couple of shallow pinholes that’s you’ll be priming over, it’s not really good for much of anything. It’s not catalyzed, it only air dries and shrinks as it does so. No redeeming features there if you ask me. A tube that size will dry out and get tossed in the trash long before you ever get much use out of it. You’re much better off to go with a quality 2 part finishing putty like the Icing stuff I posted above.
You’re very welcome on the compressor advice, water issues are usually pretty easy to take care of. Glad to hear you got them fixed up.
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