BUILD THREAD Project Olds Cool (Recognition!!)

Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
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Feb 2, 2015
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Alright, for those of you who are already tired of the mass hysteria and panic about the Corona Virus, and would like to get back to cars and G bodies, I would like to present an update.

Over the weekend I practiced some “social distancing” and “self quarantine” 😉 and got down to business. I masked up the trunk lid and laid down some more high build primer after hitting the bare metal spots with etch.

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4 full wet coats went on the repaired areas and tail panel, and 2 over the whole thing. While that was drying, I uncovered the hood and masked it up as well. There is no body work to be done on the hood, just another application of primer so I saw no reason I couldn’t proceed with that as well.

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This morning I mixed up 2 big batches of primer and laid it down on the hood.
Looks pretty good!

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Since 24 hours had passed from priming the trunk, tonight I started blocking it out again. I first went after the tail panel as that’s where the majority of the repair bodywork was done...

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...and was very pleased to find that it blocked out beautifully:

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The area I was most concerned with though was this right front corner:

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This is a difficult area to work, and I had concerns that I undercut it slightly when bodyworking it. My gut feeling was correct, as it technically blocked out but just barely:

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I sanded through several layers of the primer and even burned through to the etch in 2 spots. I’m still not happy with this area, it needs more high build and more blocking yet to be perfect. I kind of suspected this area was gonna give me some grief and need more primer, hence my leaving it masked up for the time being.

From there I went on and proceeded to block out the rest of the trunk lid to see how it would fair as well. Not bad, definitely 100% better than it was...

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...but it still ain’t quite there yet. There’s a couple of problem areas that still need attention, these should hopefully get taken care of with another round of priming and blocking. Here’s some closeups of what I mean:

A couple of burn-throughs of the layers of primer here...

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...some still low spots and a really weak soft body line here:

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...a small burn through on the peak above the trunk lock...

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...another burn-through on the top of the right side body line at the back...

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...and of course the troublesome right front corner and side:

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The name of the game here is patience and perseverance. Virtues that most people don’t have when it comes to bodywork. The priming and blocking processes have to continue over and over and OVER again until it’s right or you settle for less than perfect. I’m not one to settle and am stubborn as all hell, so I’ll keep at it until it’s right.

Now that you see what goes into blocking out bodywork for paint, you can see why I say it’s either straight or it’s not. It’s got nothing to do with what color you’re gonna paint it, white, silver or fluorescent fuchsia. Yes, lighter colors will hide some imperfections, certainly more than darker colors, but if your work is straight it doesn’t much matter. It’ll look good no matter what.

Anyways, it looks like I know what I’ll be doing tomorrow night, more primer will fly and I guess more “social distancing” is still in my near future. 😂

Cheers friends, stay safe and be smart out there. “This too shall pass”.

D.
 
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Tony1968

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Excellence is a better teacher than mediocrity. The lessons of the ordinary are everywhere. Truly profound and original insights are to be found only in studying the exemplary.
And here we have the perfect example with Donovan....
 
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Blake442

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Apr 24, 2007
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Minneapolis
The purpose of sealer is to cover up the burn-thrus in your previous layers of substrate.
They can appear as 'bulls-eyes' in the top coat.
If you've got enough surfacer on there to not bust thru, sure you can skip it, but to get a finish like that you're likely adding as much additional surfacer as you would be adding sealer, so I doubt there's a real difference in final mil thickness...
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
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Feb 2, 2015
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
The purpose of sealer is to cover up the burn-thrus in your previous layers of substrate.
They can appear as 'bulls-eyes' in the top coat.
If you've got enough surfacer on there to not bust thru, sure you can skip it, but to get a finish like that you're likely adding as much additional surfacer as you would be adding sealer, so I doubt there's a real difference in final mil thickness...

Blake, I’d like to sincerely thank you for your input. This is the first real argument for the use of sealer I’ve seen yet that has merit IMO. And sadly, its a realization that I was slowly coming around to all on my own before you posted.

I know exactly what you mean with the reference to “bullseyes” as I’m seeing them through the priming and blocking processes. I also know that the solvent in the base coat I plan on using has the potential to attack these edges and highlight them. So in that regard the use of a sealer just prior to paint makes perfect sense.

There’s been a lot of changes in the nearly 30 years in the industry since I last worked in it, some of which I’m privy to, others not so much. And to be fair, prep and paint on a complete restoration like this is very different than the work I did in production collision shops. We obviously never really had the need to use a sealer on production jobs.

Thank you again for enlightening me to the best reason for using a sealer. I ain’t real happy with the prospect of having to do this additional step at this point, but I accept it.
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Realistically, you can just seal over your break-thru areas if you don't want/need to seal the entire car/panel...

Understood, but for the additional time and material, I can see why most seal over the whole thing. It’s also reassuring piece of mind to know there’s protection on edges and such where there’s a real possibility of a missed burn through or two.
It’s making more and more sense to just do it all the time.

Thanks Blake.
 
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08Malibu

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Feb 9, 2014
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I’ve been painting with PPG Envirobase for the past 4 years, in a shop where sealer is a necessary evil. The envirobase sealer is some of the best I’ve ever used and still
I prefer to paint over properly sanded primer over sealer any day. 9 times out of ten the job comes out much cleaner when there isn’t a coat of sealer. You also get sealer creep at your doorjambs. For some reason sealer goes in further than the base and clear.
You could always seal it, wait a long flash time, then nib sand it. I think the way you’re going over the car, your prep will be spot on and there’s no need to seal it.
 
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Dayzedandkonfuzed

G-Body Guru
Feb 9, 2010
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I don't get it.

I'm on this site every day. Pretty well all day. So much that I have no idea how my bosses haven't called me out on it.

And yet I'm still 7 pages behind this thread every time I see it.

Nice work, but can you please slow down?

 
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Injectedcutty

G body LS mafia
Nov 24, 2014
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I don't get it.

I'm on this site every day. Pretty well all day. So much that I have no idea how my bosses haven't called me out on it.

And yet I'm still 7 pages behind this thread every time I see it.

Nice work, but can you please slow down?

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you're behind again already! As D's unofficially official PR guy, I'm here to inform y'all he was off today and has been laboring away on Olds Cool. It's looking mighty fine, and I'm sure he'll update the thread when the literal dust settles!
 
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