Thank you. I also put some at the back where the center bar ties to the roof, it has the same gaps. I'm thinking i might fill in the space at the end of the header where there doesn't seem to be anything to support the weatherstrip
Project: T Top Stop Leak
- Thread starter Winkernod
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Thank you. I also put some at the back where the center bar ties to the roof, it has the same gaps. I'm thinking i might fill in the space at the end of the header where there doesn't seem to be anything to support the weatherstrip
Oh ok I’m going to have to do mine on my GN and I think I’m going to do the same thing. Also I’m not sure if you posted or not but where did you get your replacement t top parts as far as the center t bar and other parts? Are you happy with the quality of them?
Be prepared for the worse once you remove the weatherstrips. it will very likely have some rust. Hopefully not too bad. If you read another thread I have going you will understand not all suppliers are the same :
T Top ridge rail fitment
Just wondering if anyone here has used any of the t top repair kits that give you the seal channels and the center ridge plate and rail. most of all I want to know how well the ridge rail fit the contour/ curvature of the glass To me this doesnt look right
gbodyforum.com
Be prepared for the worse once you remove the weatherstrips. it will very likely have some rust. Hopefully not too bad. If you read another thread I have going you will understand not all suppliers are the same :
T Top ridge rail fitment
Just wondering if anyone here has used any of the t top repair kits that give you the seal channels and the center ridge plate and rail. most of all I want to know how well the ridge rail fit the contour/ curvature of the glass To me this doesnt look right
Mine is real bad I’ve already seen the worse on this car and it’s bad. I did read some of it, are you pretty happy with the Dixie restoration parts?
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Ouch that is nasty, there is a whole windshield header repair panel available. How are the A pillars, they are available too. Yes I am very pleased with the kit from Dixie.
I’ve got the windshield panel. I’m replacing the a pillars, I’ve got to get the b pillar patch panels and also replacing the whole floor pan and firewall due to rust
Just checked out your thread and realized I had looked in on that a few weeks ago. Yeah you do have some work to do but you got this. I really like what you did with your other GN Gotta love the patina
That’s actually a 81 Indy pace car earlier than the GN but its much rarer than the (150 1981 Indy’s and 215 82 GN’s) 82 GN I have under the knife. I think I’m going to go with Dixie for the t top parts the fit looks nice on your car
Okay I have finished up the repair/reseal of my T-top. I had a buddy of mine come over to help and very glad to have the extra hands for sure
So here we are laying down 3M VBH sealant tape under the trim
I did the sealant tape on the rear as well right over the edge of the vinyl top
butyl in the corner gaps
More butyl front corners
weather strip sealant (contact cement)
tucking the lip under the trim. That is a real PITA
seals all in
really good profile
Now I didn't get pictures of installing the ridge rail but it was not fun at all. We had the seals installed and pushed the ridge rail down as far as we could and was really happy with the way the rail sat until I put the glass in and it wanted to lift at the front a bit. I was able to finally able to get it to stay in place as the seals kinda settled. The rivet fit perfectly in the rear most hole so we started with that one. With no room to fit the whole end of the rivet gun under the rail we were able to add some small washers to the stem of the rivet and got it to work we then went to the front and it didn't line up so we had to drill a hole through and rivet it we then did the rest and a couple we had to drill.
So here we are laying down 3M VBH sealant tape under the trim
I did the sealant tape on the rear as well right over the edge of the vinyl top
butyl in the corner gaps
More butyl front corners
weather strip sealant (contact cement)
tucking the lip under the trim. That is a real PITA
seals all in
really good profile
Now I didn't get pictures of installing the ridge rail but it was not fun at all. We had the seals installed and pushed the ridge rail down as far as we could and was really happy with the way the rail sat until I put the glass in and it wanted to lift at the front a bit. I was able to finally able to get it to stay in place as the seals kinda settled. The rivet fit perfectly in the rear most hole so we started with that one. With no room to fit the whole end of the rivet gun under the rail we were able to add some small washers to the stem of the rivet and got it to work we then went to the front and it didn't line up so we had to drill a hole through and rivet it we then did the rest and a couple we had to drill.
Another trick to extend your rivet gun tip a little bit to reach stuff is to take another rivet (if you're using open hole type) and remove the stud. Slide the rivet shell on top of a new rivet stem to act as a spacer. I've had to do that when doing the center rivets on power antenna motor casings. That way you don't have to mess with any little washers.
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