Several years ago I got a new header panel from GBodyPaarts. Much better quality and thicker than OEM. Coated on both sides, unlike the factory panel that is in there. At the time they offered it with or without the J channel welded in. I didn't know any better so I chose without and welded it in myself. The width of the insulation determines where to weld it in. I used their rubber kit too, but I think it was not as good as it should have been.
Project: T Top Stop Leak
- Thread starter Winkernod
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I didn't really give a lot of thought to replacing the whole header as I felt that as thin as factory metal was it was still really solid. Maybe I made a mistake, only time will tell.
When you said that you thought the seals were not as good as they should have been what did you mean?
I don't want to say their product was inferior, let me explain. I didn't measure the bottom of the old OEM rubber verses the new. So I can't say it wasn't the exact same but I think they were bigger. The placement of the J channel should match the new rubber so it will hold it in. I welded my J channel as per my original header, not my new rubber, not knowing what I was doing, at the time. So I had to cram my new rubber in and it looks like sh*t. My fault, not gbody parts.
I'll know better next time.
Just because I have had a large issue with the T-top repair kit that I ordered from GBodyparts please check this thread
gbodyforum.com
So you get the right kit and deal with great people and business I got this kit I installed from Dixie Restoration Depot
T Top ridge rail fitment
Just wondering if anyone here has used any of the t top repair kits that give you the seal channels and the center ridge plate and rail. most of all I want to know how well the ridge rail fit the contour/ curvature of the glass To me this doesnt look right
gbodyforum.com
So you get the right kit and deal with great people and business I got this kit I installed from Dixie Restoration Depot
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