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Hoses on the PS pump can stay on as well. You just want to get it off the mounting studs and out of the way.
As far as replacing the timing chain...um, if it IS original and it's going to be a good while before the new engine, my vote is yes. Be prepared to jack up the engine, drop the pan a bit, clean out the bottom of the pan and oil pump best you can of plastic gear chunkies, and the job will go much easier overall. It's a PITA but overall you get a better job. If you're going to change engines in the near future, I'd say no. Once you pull the engine up, just keep it coming on out and drop in the 455. Just sayin'.
As far as replacing the timing chain...um, if it IS original and it's going to be a good while before the new engine, my vote is yes. Be prepared to jack up the engine, drop the pan a bit, clean out the bottom of the pan and oil pump best you can of plastic gear chunkies, and the job will go much easier overall. It's a PITA but overall you get a better job. If you're going to change engines in the near future, I'd say no. Once you pull the engine up, just keep it coming on out and drop in the 455. Just sayin'.
I do plan an engine swap in near future. Seeing that it’s a pain to do the timing chain, I’m probably going to pass. Haha. Just getting to the water pump was a pain with all the accessories.
Those are crimp clamps. They used a special crimping tool to crunch the end in place. You can spread them by being careful with a flat blade screwdriver. Those were normally thrown away and the replacement is a typical worm screw hose clamp.
GM did not install the valve covers with gaskets. Although gaskets would be the way to go when replacing. They used a hardening permatex sealer crap that eventually cracks and leaks. Yay!!! Not so permanent. They figured you'd throw the car away before you had to fix valve cover leaks.
You'll have to diassemble all that bullcrap along with the A/C compressor and bracketry, get it out of the way, remove the five 3/8" head screws, and pop the valve cover. Fun job. Not.
If you bust that A.I.R. tubing, or find it needs replacing, you can use GM p/n 22534541 or equivalent aftermarket. Driver side is GM p/n 22534540.
The check valves will screw off the AIR piping. You will probably be getting rid of all that stuff anyway with the 455.
GM did not install the valve covers with gaskets. Although gaskets would be the way to go when replacing. They used a hardening permatex sealer crap that eventually cracks and leaks. Yay!!! Not so permanent. They figured you'd throw the car away before you had to fix valve cover leaks.
You'll have to diassemble all that bullcrap along with the A/C compressor and bracketry, get it out of the way, remove the five 3/8" head screws, and pop the valve cover. Fun job. Not.
If you bust that A.I.R. tubing, or find it needs replacing, you can use GM p/n 22534541 or equivalent aftermarket. Driver side is GM p/n 22534540.
The check valves will screw off the AIR piping. You will probably be getting rid of all that stuff anyway with the 455.
Thanks. I was wondering how you got the damn clamps off. I wasn’t going to replace the valve cover gaskets but I may have the motor in the car longer than I want. So I want it to run nice and not leak. I’ve already order some steel core rubber gaskets.
Keep in mind that since GM didn't use valve cover gaskets, the gaskets you normally find have 10 holes in them for bolts. The 307s have 5 hole covers. They'll still work, but just making you aware. The first time someone sees the difference, they think they got the wrong gaskets.
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