Replacing body bushings on 1979 Monte Carlo
- Thread starter rmorman
- Start date
- Status
With the body jacked up, I just put the rod thru the frame and wiggled the frame around with to get it lined up. It's not like the they are off a bunch. I'm thinking that the front LH side was off about 1/3 of a hole. At the rear, I put the rod up in the frame and kind of kicked the frame over a little to get it lined up.
Got mine back on the road this weekend, it's amazing how solid it feels now. I think it's actually quieter too, not sure why.
Got mine back on the road this weekend, it's amazing how solid it feels now. I think it's actually quieter too, not sure why.
Quick update. Got the 5/8 rods in each hole. I think my front one was circular, not oblong. The back one was though. See pictures below:
Below are a couple of the front one:
I used a cheap pair of needle nose to keep it from falling out
Here is one of the back one:
This is a view from above where I had to cut the hole:
After I got both in, I noticed that the rear frame was still not square in the body. I clamped a ruler so you could see:
This is the passenger side:
This is the drivers side:
How close do I need to be? I can see from above (where I cut holes) that the drivers side frame needs to go towards the outside. Do I just raise that side and force it?
Also, what are the I.D. of the BODY repair washers?
Thanks,
Russ
Below are a couple of the front one:
I used a cheap pair of needle nose to keep it from falling out
Here is one of the back one:
This is a view from above where I had to cut the hole:
After I got both in, I noticed that the rear frame was still not square in the body. I clamped a ruler so you could see:
This is the passenger side:
This is the drivers side:
How close do I need to be? I can see from above (where I cut holes) that the drivers side frame needs to go towards the outside. Do I just raise that side and force it?
Also, what are the I.D. of the BODY repair washers?
Thanks,
Russ
As I was wrapping up last night, I had a thought. As the nut cages turned out to be in worse shape than I initially thought, I removed the ones that I hole sawed open. After I re-attach the missing sheet metal in the trunk, is there any reason that I can't just get a 2in rubber plug and cut a 2in hole above these body mount locations? That would allow me to just use a regular nut and have access to them if I should need to again. Seems like a perfect plan to me.
I made my own and drilled a 1 1/4" hole if my memory is holding out. You can double check with a good body mount hole in the frame. When I did my body bushings I had stripped my frame of everything and I had the body up in the air. I lifted the bare frame to the body and it was pretty easy to measure and get the frame centered on the body. I had bought 4 longer bolts so I could hang the frame on the body while I installed the other bolts checking the location of the frame to the body as I went. Then I installed the engine, drive train, suspension and after the car was sitting in it's wheels I put the front clip on.
The washers are 1.5" ID.
The rear frame is pretty flimsy. I'm sure once you put the rear bumper back in it will pull together. I took the bumper off, but left the brace on the lower holes. That might have helped. I got the hole lined up under the drivers door, then worked on getting the RH rear alignment pin in. Then double checked that the frame to body gap was the same on both sides, and it was.
Off topic, but what exhaust do you have? Looks nice!
The rear frame is pretty flimsy. I'm sure once you put the rear bumper back in it will pull together. I took the bumper off, but left the brace on the lower holes. That might have helped. I got the hole lined up under the drivers door, then worked on getting the RH rear alignment pin in. Then double checked that the frame to body gap was the same on both sides, and it was.
Off topic, but what exhaust do you have? Looks nice!
- Status
Similar threads
