BUILD THREAD Rustier then I thought!!!

[Texas82GP]

91-03 harness....
Rostra (24222798 (350-0032) / 24241218) Wire Harness, 4L80E Internal (Male) W/Temp Sensor (1991-2003) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076QL9RLZ/?tag=gbody-20

04 up.....
Rostra (24224906 (350-0071) / 24229664) Wire Harness, 4L80E Internal (Male) W/Temp Sensor (2004-Up) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076QLJ5Q6/?tag=gbody-20

Shop around. You might do better on price on the 04 up harness from a transmission parts house.

 

[RabbitHoleSS]

No need to run an oil cooler with the engine in a car (no towing). You could, but it isn't needed. Your new oil pan will have the provision for the oil cooler blocked off.

On the leak on the 4L80E, replace the harness. It's not expensive or difficult. It's like $50. There are two styles (early and late) if I remember correctly so watch out for that. Put the transmission on the stand, pull the pan and take a picture of the routing and connections. There is a special tool to push the bulkhead connector into the transmission case but it isn't absolutely necessary to have it.....
Transmaxx Teckpak TGMHR Electronic Connector Remover 4L60E https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072JCH5QT/?tag=gbody-20

The harness bulkhead connector is leaking in one of two places. Either at the o-ring around the outside of the connector or its leaking internally like mine was (common problem). I've seen it said that the bulkhead connector leaking internally can cause shifting issues and even transmission failure due to poor electrical connection resulting from the fluid in the connector so be sure to address it.

When my builder rebuilt my 4L85E for my truck, he reused the harness. I got it all together and filled with fluid only to find it leaking. I had to drop the mid section (y-pipe) of my exhaust, pull the pan and replace the harness in the truck. I wasn't happy that he reused the harness when I found out what a new one (made in USA) cost. Right then, I would have probably paid $1000 not to have to pull it back apart....

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That's awesome info. I appreciate it. I think mine leaks from inside the connector(like ur pictures)Atleast there's fluid in it.and I would have sporadic shifting issues. Especially going into overdrive. Sometimes it was there. Others it wasn't. I'll probably look into changing the solenoids while I'm in there. Hopefully they're cheap like the 4l60e.

 

[Texas82GP]

That's awesome info. I appreciate it. I think mine leaks from inside the connector(like ur pictures)Atleast there's fluid in it.and I would have sporadic shifting issues. Especially going into overdrive. Sometimes it was there. Others it wasn't. I'll probably look into changing the solenoids while I'm in there. Hopefully they're cheap like the 4l60e.

You're welcome. Glad to help. I recently watched a few 4L80E videos on YouTube on the Precision Transmission channel. The builder was the one who cautioned that fluid in the connector could cause problems. Neither the 4L65E that came in my truck nor the 4L85E that is in it now shift into overdrive if the temperature sensor is reading below 70°.

 

[RabbitHoleSS]

I would have the engine buttoned up but I went to install the pickup tube that came with the super shop pan and it was marred up.

After consulting the forum it was unanimous, don't use it. So now I wait for them to send holleys pickup tube. I had tightened down the rockers the day before. When I went to spin the cam to push the lifters up, I couldn't budge it. So I undid them all and it spun free and pulled right out. I used 5/16 wood dowels with plenty lube to hold up the lifters. Although I doubt they were needed. I could shove them both in before spinning the cam. I put a new retainer in as cheap oil pressure insurance.

I put the sprocket on, lined it up dot to dot. Then pulled the sprocket off and installed the chain/sprocket. It should be right this way.
I spray bombed the block with Duplicolor ford blue Engine Enamel, and front cover some metallic color.

Since I can't put the Pan on and put the engine in. I started messing with the L96 injectors. The bottom oring is the same. The top is smaller(barely) so I'll swap them out. The l96 injectors are noticeably bigger though, I think 50lb vs 24 lb.

After 1st test fit, I was left with a solid 1/8" gap.

I ground down the mounting bosses and they snapped into place.

It seems like a pretty good junkyard/used upgrade. I think they're some of the biggest stock high impedance injectors should be hood to 500 tire if the stock lq4 truck injectors are 90% IDC at 250hp.I also have the ev6 connectors and wiring that were on the l96 intake. I'm gonna look into soldering those onto my harness instead of buying ict adapters. I snapped a knock sensor. Looks like either I'll have to buy a set or the ict delete valley cover both are around 50$. I'm not sure how necessary they are for tuning/not detonating, but the ict cover is shiny.

I'll store this rec port intake/tb/rails for later use. My plan is to fit the drive train together on the chassis, so I can modify my crossmember for the 4l80e. Then I can seperate them to swap out that transmission harness and converter.
Oh and fix this crap tomorrow.

The driver spring perch is right. The spring was on it perfect last summer when I had it in. When the pinion flange is at 0° the perch is at -3°. I think this is right so I'm gonna cut the passenger off and weld it on in the same position. Then I'm throwing the axles back in, checking the pattern on the gear, buying some wheel adapters and running it as is. I'll build(or have SSM build) the 8.8 I want(9" ends , 31 spline trutrac and SSM UCA bridge) at a later date.

 

[RabbitHoleSS]

Well I been waiting for the pickup tube that hasn't arrived. So I started messing with the harness. I used lt1swap.com pinouts/ info. I have the driver injectors,coil,02 sensors on 1 fuse, the pass side injectors, coil,02 sensors on another. Then all the other pink wires on the 3rd. It was a bit intimidating until I dove in.

I have the a/c circuit bundled up for when I add it in. The cruise circuit is off to the side and all the sensors,obd and switches are off in there own bundle

I spent about 8 hours on it. Very tedious figuring out what's what, checking continuity, labeling and removing wires. I have a pretty good handle on how everything gets hooked up. And since I was already irritated I decided to replace the motor mounts.

If your doing this, go buy a 15 mm swivel from the start. That bottom bolt is a beootch without it. The top bolts are easy. Just use the box end of a wrench in the frame and a ratchet out of it. Don't use impacts and use the top ratchet to loosen. If you use the ratchet in the frame to loosen it'll keep falling off.Also there's a top and bottom. The above pic shows how to install it upside down. Many profanities were used during this process. I also lost one of the nuts. I'll buy one tomorrow. This is my least favorite part of this so far.

If the pickup tube comes tomorrow, I'll be putting the drivetrain in and building my crossmember. I made a list of parts needed to finish the swap with $$ next to it. Mistake. I figure another 2k in parts not including tuning. Most that's the converter,headers and fuel module. When it's all said and done I'll have 3k in parts not including the drivetrain.So I'm thinking the only cheap ls swap is a bone stock swap(although I know alot of guys spent 5k on a 355 build). It's not particularly hard but I also wouldn't call it easy.

 

[RabbitHoleSS]

This is why I'm up so early.Bone in pork butt. I figured I'll update the thread while watching the smoker.

I finally had time to get in the garage yesterday and the pickup tube came in this week. It's much higher quality.

Supershops oil pan pick up tube fugly.

Should I run it or return it? Do you think it'll lose oil pressure?

gbodyforum.com

To use the truck windage tray you have to cut the front 1/4 off and notch about 3"×1 on the passenger front corner. This wasn't enough... so I cut another 1" out.

If you don't take enough out it barely hits the tube and you'll wonder why the pickup won't go in. 🤔 Then you'll disregard the instructions (don't use the bolt or a clamp to pull the tube in) it will rip the oring So I headed to the autopart store. Gm part# 12584922 / Fel-Pro 72401. Once clearanced properly it popped right in.The oring provided by supershops is to small.
As I was trying the last bolt, it wouldn't thread but it would go thru the gasket. I guess there's an extra hole in the pan.

I have 2 questions about the Pan if anyone has answers. 1) Does the cooler line block off plate need rubber gasket maker?> 2) Do the plugs for turbo return lines need Teflon tape or anything before I tighten them down?
Then I threw the cover and crank pulley on. To put the pulley on I used a 1/2" impact, bought a long grade 8.8 bolt and a few fender washers to press it on. It says torque to 240lb. Mine doesn't go that high. So I put all I had with my breaker bar and a cheater on it. Then backed the"tool" out and torqued the factory bolt to 37lb. It had about a 4mm gap between crank pulley and front cover.After putting on the engine mounts it was time to drop it in the car.

I mocked up the transmission crossmember. I have the jegs th350 crossmember. It's way off but the humps look like they might be right.Maybe... I was thinking of cutting the pass side off and putting in a sleeve to weld it straight across. I already cut the mount off. It faced forward and hit the Pan or I would've had to move everything way back. I'll just weld the mount to the back.

If the humps are to close together I'll build my own and use c channel as the humps and rec. tubing for the rest. It feels good to see progress again for sure

 

[Tony1968]

Well I been waiting for the pickup tube that hasn't arrived. So I started messing with the harness. I used lt1swap.com pinouts/ info. I have the driver injectors,coil,02 sensors on 1 fuse, the pass side injectors, coil,02 sensors on another. Then all the other pink wires on the 3rd. It was a bit intimidating until I dove in.View attachment 194351
I have the a/c circuit bundled up for when I add it in. The cruise circuit is off to the side and all the sensors,obd and switches are off in there own bundleView attachment 194352
I spent about 8 hours on it. Very tedious figuring out what's what, checking continuity, labeling and removing wires. I have a pretty good handle on how everything gets hooked up. And since I was already irritated I decided to replace the motor mounts. View attachment 194353
If your doing this, go buy a 15 mm swivel from the start. That bottom bolt is a beootch without it. The top bolts are easy. Just use the box end of a wrench in the frame and a ratchet out of it. Don't use impacts and use the top ratchet to loosen. If you use the ratchet in the frame to loosen it'll keep falling off.Also there's a top and bottom. The above pic shows how to install it upside down. Many profanities were used during this process. I also lost one of the nuts. I'll buy one tomorrow. This is my least favorite part of this so far.View attachment 194355View attachment 194354 If the pickup tube comes tomorrow, I'll be putting the drivetrain in and building my crossmember. I made a list of parts needed to finish the swap with $$ next to it. Mistake. I figure another 2k in parts not including tuning. Most that's the converter,headers and fuel module. When it's all said and done I'll have 3k in parts not including the drivetrain.So I'm thinking the only cheap ls swap is a bone stock swap(although I know alot of guys spent 5k on a 355 build). It's not particularly hard but I also wouldn't call it easy.

FYI... I can't really tell whose LS swap mount you are using BUT it looks to me that the frame mounts are too far forward. Maybe this is why trans cross member is off?
I know those nut/bolts 🔩 are a pita. I had to loosen them to get engine in then re tighten. Royal pain
You are kicking azz though. Keep up good work

 

[RabbitHoleSS]

FYI... I can't really tell whose LS swap mount you are using BUT it looks to me that the frame mounts are too far forward. Maybe this is why trans cross member is off?
I know those nut/bolts 🔩 are a pita. I had to loosen them to get engine in then re tighten. Royal pain
You are kicking azz though. Keep up good work

Thanks.The pads are in the same spot as when the 355 was in it. I know because I didn't clean it. I just used the dust as a guide. Im using ict swap plates and umi sbc replacement clamshell. They came with instructions. So I'd hope I put them in right lol.The crossmember isn't off. It's not for the 4l80e. It's a th350 crossmember. The 4l80e Is about 6" longer, depending on your output shaft. The choices to put a 4l80e in are buy a gforce, hooker or make/modify your own. They're like 350 shipped. I'm pretty sure I can make it for 1/5th that or less if I can this one work.

Gratuitous "Butt" pick. About halfway done. Hopefully I got up early enough not to piss everyone off when it isn't done and their all hungry.

 

[RabbitHoleSS]

Well here's what 40$ and 5hrs gets you.
I started by going to my local steel shop and digging in the drops. I got 3× 20" rectangular tubing. 3"×1.5×.125 wall. And 2 pcs of c channel. One is bigger then the other, I couldn't find the same size in the drops 😅.

That was just tacked together, but I could tell it was gonna be way too bouncy at the humps so I added gussets on top. It was still bouncy. I laid the transmission on it and it deflected 3".I clamped it down when welding the gussets to try and compensate for the flimsy humps. It didn't work. It still deflected a few inches under the weight of the transmission.

So I figured I'd gusset the inside. I had some 1/4" angle I cut into pcs and welded them to the humps.

I chamfered all the edges and preheated a few areas that had multiple layers of 1/4"since I'm using a 110v machine with .035 flux. I feel like all the prep paid off. Seems to have good penetration. I also ran it with gas like a mig. It seems to weld alot better that way.

I mightve went overboard with the "preload" but I can straighten it back out.

Atleast it doesn't deflect anymore. I jumped up and down on it and it didn't move maybe 1/4".

I'm gonna weld on the bracket I cut off the th350 crossmember tomorrow. Then weld on the frame side mounts and it's done.
I also went to the junkyard out of boredom and got an 03' van pcm( ser. # 106) has iac drivers for a/c and can run dbw. I took the harness too just in case. It seems like it would be easier to adapt to glovebox pcm mount.

 

[RabbitHoleSS]

I also welded the spring perches on straight and checked the gear pattern. It looks good to me but then again I have no idea what I'm looking at. And the only compound locally was blue. Kinda hard to see