BUILD THREAD Rustier then I thought!!!

[RabbitHoleSS]

It started out without the box behind the mount (driveshaft loop bolts onto that) and the cutout for the exhaust.

The small piece of aluminum angle is a mount for an extra trans cooler if needed. Weighs about 20-22lbs. Was 16 before I started adding on.

Thanks alot, That's exactly what I looking to build, driveshaft loop and all. I took the factory loop out.

Paint the engine???? Pressure wash and go lol.

And looks like you have squirrel ‘left behinds’ on the valley cover. Wouldn’t be a good motor with those.

I'm leaning that way tbh.We'll see how it goes. Dirt/debris was caked in the crevices deep. And it leaked oil from the fill tube forever. I couldn't see the headbolts. I forgot to remove the tac/harness and pedal assembly too. Good thing it's still I my driveway.

 

[motorheadmike]

Paint the engine???? Pressure wash and go lol.

And looks like you have squirrel ‘left behinds’ on the valley cover. Wouldn’t be a good motor with those.

I dunno... scrubbing it down and fogging it with the most ridiculous colour on hand/on discount is always a great solution. Mostly to keep the crusties from falling off and into your eyes down the line.

 

[64nailhead]

I took the factory loop out.

That loop is there to hold the driveshaft up when you’re doing rear end swaps and forget to unhook the driveshaft from the rear lol. If you’re going to put in a loop, then get something that is NHRA approved. Jegs and Summit sell the partial loops for another $20-25. It’s an easy add on when you order from them.

Is it a driveshaft loop or hoop? Or does it matter 😉

 

[Northernregal]

I got off work early and came home to jump on the engine removal. I pulled the intake and underneath was filthy.View attachment 193452
I used the valley bolts/holes as pick points. I was yanking on it like this with my chainfall doing the pulling while the hoist does the lifting.View attachment 193454 But I forgot to disconnect the fuel lines from the side of the transmission. Once I broke that loose it came right out. When working alone you must think outside the box 😆. Technically my better half pulled the chain on the chainfall while I made sure we weren't breaking sh*t.View attachment 193455
I'll remove and label the harness tomorrow and try to clean up the engine a little bit. I need a converter to save myself disappointment when it's done. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Looks nice and filthy, so it's probably a winner!

I take the rockers out and pressure wash mine. Roll it over when done to dry out the intake runners, valves will keep the water out of the cylinders.

 

[RabbitHoleSS]

Looks nice and filthy, so it's probably a winner!

I take the rockers out and pressure wash mine. Roll it over when done to dry out the intake runners, valves will keep the water out of the cylinders.

It's only got 60k miles on it. But it's as dirty as the rest of the truck. I figure another 150k and it's ready for a ebay turbo.
So pull the valve covers, rocker pedestals and go to town?
I have to get an engine stand too I was thinking about having to lay down under a hanging engine to remove the oil pan. So I'll separate them, put the engine on a stand and swap converters while I'm doing it.

I dunno... scrubbing it down and fogging it with the most ridiculous colour on hand/on discount is always a great solution. Mostly to keep the crusties from falling off and into your eyes down the line.

I like your line of thinking. I ate 3 lbs of rust dust with my mouth and 2 more with my eyes while removing it. It's peeling crusty paint/metal from everywhere. I like the cheapest on sale paint idea or maybe I'll just let my boy pick whatever color he wants.

 

[Northernregal]

It's only got 60k miles on it. But it's as dirty as the rest of the truck. I figure another 150k and it's ready for a ebay turbo.
So pull the valve covers, rocker pedestals and go to town?
I have to get an engine stand too I was thinking about having to lay down under a hanging engine to remove the oil pan. So I'll separate them, put the engine on a stand and swap converters while I'm doing it.

I like your line of thinking. I ate 3 lbs of rust dust with my mouth and 2 more with my eyes while removing it. It's peeling crusty paint/metal from everywhere. I like the cheapest on sale paint idea or maybe I'll just let my boy pick whatever color he wants.

Yup. Pull the rockers and pedestals, then go to town with the pressure washer. Hit with some degreaser now and then and it'll come out really nice.

Dirty is good for some reason with these motors, regardless of mileage.

 

[Texas82GP]

Ill probably fire up the heater and paint it. I'm not sure what to use, I haven't really looked into painting engines.

I would clean it up and paint it. It's better to work on it that way and you'll be happier with it. LS Engines are awesome but their pretty homely looking. A little lipstick will go a long way. I've always had good luck cleaning it up with mineral spirits on on paper towels (throw mess away) and a pocket knife for the thick stuff. Then I do a final wipe with lacquer thinner on a micro fiber. Tape it up and go. I like the VHT engine paint. I painted my 4L85E with it. I used the primer and the paint. I've also had plenty of good results with Duplicolor Engine Enamel.

I need a converter to save myself disappointment when it's done. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Yeah, if you're going to move the power band to the right, you're going to want a good converter. I went with Circle D on my truck. They're here in Houston. Great people and great product. Check out post 23 in my truck thread...

Post in thread 'Texas82GP's GMT900' https://gbodyforum.com/threads/texas82gps-gmt900.72340/post-684915

How much cam, what tire size and what rear gear are you going to run? My truck has a 5.3 with the GMPP Hot Cam, 4.10 rear gears and 32" tires. I daily drive it. It is 100% street able even with that "high" stall speed. You might not need quite so much with a shorter tire though. The converter is everything though. The tight stock converter with a cam is a dog, naturally aspirated.

I took the factory loop out.

That's actually a floor pan brace. You're going to want to tie that back together somehow. I have a loop bolted in there on my car...

 

[RabbitHoleSS]

I would clean it up and paint it. It's better to work on it that way and you'll be happier with it. LS Engines are awesome but their pretty homely looking. A little lipstick will go a long way. I've always had good luck cleaning it up with mineral spirits on on paper towels (throw mess away) and a pocket knife for the thick stuff. Then I do a final wipe with lacquer thinner on a micro fiber. Tape it up and go. I like the VHT engine paint. I painted my 4L85E with it. I used the primer and the paint. I've also had plenty of good results with Duplicolor Engine Enamel.


Yeah, if you're going to move the power band to the right, you're going to want a good converter. I went with Circle D on my truck. They're here in Houston. Great people and great product. Check out post 23 in my truck thread...

Post in thread 'Texas82GP's GMT900' https://gbodyforum.com/threads/texas82gps-gmt900.72340/post-684915

How much cam, what tire size and what rear gear are you going to run? My truck has a 5.3 with the GMPP Hot Cam, 4.10 rear gears and 32" tires. I daily drive it. It is 100% street able even with that "high" stall speed. You might not need quite so much with a shorter tire though. The converter is everything though. The tight stock converter with a cam is a dog, naturally aspirated.



That's actually a floor pan brace. You're going to want to tie that back together somehow. I have a loop bolted in there on my car...

View attachment 193496

Thanks for the knowledge drop.
The cam is an Elgin 1840. Lift .585/.585
Advertised Duration 283/286 Duration At .050" Lift 228/230 112 lsa. 4.11 gear, 26.5" tire(I think). That little bit about the Floorplan brace stung inside since I forgot to weld the mounts back in when I did the floor. The bottom of the car is done (Was done). I thought it was a loop so I didn't worry about it. I still have it. That converter is nice ,but it looks like it might be a bit out of my range lol.I seen these guys mentioned as a quality remanufactured option. For cheapskates like me. I'm still undecided. Probably should call one of them and get some guidance.

Florida Torque Converter

Florida Torque Converter has the largest inventory of remanufactured torque converters in stock ready to ship. High quality remanufactured in the USA torque converters. We also do High-Performance and Race Torque Converters, Allison 643 Torque Converters, Industrial, Forklift and Heavy Machinery.

www.floridatorqueconverters.com

 

[RabbitHoleSS]

I let my boy pick the engine color(nothing is on sale)

He picked ford blue. It was 75 today so I broke out the pressure washer on the engine. Used some degreaser that was probably unnecessary. It was mostly crusty paint/rust. I got it pretty clean and I'll paint it tomorrow since it'll be 70 again. After I cleaned it.

My truck had oil cooler lines, that I bent when I pulled the engine in the dark. I'm not sure if I should run them or not. I also pulled the water pump,ac, and harmonic balancer. I had to use the Chrysler balancer puller. I'll swap the cam tomorrow, I started to pulled the front cover so I could easily use the TDC method to change the valve springs I had 2 bolts out when I realized i didn't drain the oil.. disaster averted.The heads were clean, no sludge or grime. Definitely cleaner inside then out.

I used the Lisle valve compressor,magnet and pick. It works, just lube it up often but it takes forever. I'll buy the tool that does 2 at once next time.
I also need to find out how to fix this from leaking.

Next on the list is the cam,oil pan and harness.

 

[Texas82GP]

I let my boy pick the engine color(nothing is on sale) View attachment 193761
He picked ford blue. It was 75 today so I broke out the pressure washer on the engine. Used some degreaser that was probably unnecessary. It was mostly crusty paint/rust. I got it pretty clean and I'll paint it tomorrow since it'll be 70 again. After I cleaned it.View attachment 193762
My truck had oil cooler lines, that I bent when I pulled the engine in the dark. I'm not sure if I should run them or not. I also pulled the water pump,ac, and harmonic balancer. I had to use the Chrysler balancer puller. I'll swap the cam tomorrow, I started to pulled the front cover so I could easily use the TDC method to change the valve springs I had 2 bolts out when I realized i didn't drain the oil.. disaster averted.The heads were clean, no sludge or grime. Definitely cleaner inside then out.View attachment 193765View attachment 193763
I used the Lisle valve compressor,magnet and pick. It works, just lube it up often but it takes forever. I'll buy the tool that does 2 at once next time.
I also need to find out how to fix this from leaking. View attachment 193764
Next on the list is the cam,oil pan and harness.

No need to run an oil cooler with the engine in a car (no towing). You could, but it isn't needed. Your new oil pan will have the provision for the oil cooler blocked off.

On the leak on the 4L80E, replace the harness. It's not expensive or difficult. It's like $50. There are two styles (early and late) if I remember correctly so watch out for that. Put the transmission on the stand, pull the pan and take a picture of the routing and connections. There is a special tool to push the bulkhead connector into the transmission case but it isn't absolutely necessary to have it.....
Transmaxx Teckpak TGMHR Electronic Connector Remover 4L60E https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072JCH5QT/?tag=gbody-20

The harness bulkhead connector is leaking in one of two places. Either at the o-ring around the outside of the connector or its leaking internally like mine was (common problem). I've seen it said that the bulkhead connector leaking internally can cause shifting issues and even transmission failure due to poor electrical connection resulting from the fluid in the connector so be sure to address it.

When my builder rebuilt my 4L85E for my truck, he reused the harness. I got it all together and filled with fluid only to find it leaking. I had to drop the mid section (y-pipe) of my exhaust, pull the pan and replace the harness in the truck. I wasn't happy that he reused the harness when I found out what a new one (made in USA) cost. Right then, I would have probably paid $1000 not to have to pull it back apart....