Glad to see you back at it. I've been struggling with getting and keeping interest in my Regal for the last couple years so I can relate.
Straight quarter panels are overrated. Smear it with mud and send it.
BUILD THREAD Rustier then I thought!!!
- Thread starter RabbitHoleSS
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Glad to see you back at it. I've been struggling with getting and keeping interest in my Regal for the last couple years so I can relate.
Straight quarter panels are overrated. Smear it with mud and send it.
People pretend like these things had Bugatti fit and finish from the factory. In reality they are shitboxes slapped together by blitzed highschool dropouts... and I prefer it that way.
Thanks for the kind words and encouragement. I thought about the full qtr replacement but it intimidated me so I thought patching would be easier lol. That might be what I do eventually. It's probably the best course of action at this point. But....
there's this line of thinking also. Which is where I'm headed. Honestly it's where I should've been all along, since I was once a blitzed hs dropout. Lol. I need to figure out what I'm gonna do about an ecu. I was gonna make my own harness and get hp tuners, but after some research I think the Terminator max might be the cheaper/safer (epa)option now. I'm cleaning the garage out so I can bring the new engine and Trans in. It's a mess. So that's my revised winter goal. Frame back under the body with the drive train in, including the rear end.
I finally got my garage clean(enough to get the hoist thru). I took the front end off the truck to make it easier and ensure I can get both engine and Trans out together. I have it down to the Trans crossmember and driveshaft. I'm gonna unbolt the exhaust manifolds in the garage, hopefully I can heat them with a torch and not break them all. This is the only pic I took the first night after work.
I've been under the impression this truck has a separate transmission controller but I can't find it. It's definitely not under the battery tray. I also decided to use the stock pcm since holley wants my next born son for a terminator max(I should've bought it last yr) I talked to a local tuner everyone seems to use. He charges 450$ or 600$ for speed density for n/a builds. I should have it out this weekend to swap the cam,springs and oil pan. I have a cheap jegs th350 crossmember I'm gonna try to adapt to the 4l80e. It seems like I can just get some c-channel,slot it and weld it to the opposite side of the crossmember.
I've been under the impression this truck has a separate transmission controller but I can't find it. It's definitely not under the battery tray. I also decided to use the stock pcm since holley wants my next born son for a terminator max(I should've bought it last yr) I talked to a local tuner everyone seems to use. He charges 450$ or 600$ for speed density for n/a builds. I should have it out this weekend to swap the cam,springs and oil pan. I have a cheap jegs th350 crossmember I'm gonna try to adapt to the 4l80e. It seems like I can just get some c-channel,slot it and weld it to the opposite side of the crossmember.
You can easily adapt the factory crossmember to the 4L80. Or you can fabricate one with your welding skills My son has bought one, used a fabricated one from a stock pre '81 crossmember and mine has a completely fabricated one that cost me less than $50.
I can supply a photo of mine if you're interested because it's out at the moment.
I can supply a photo of mine if you're interested because it's out at the moment.
Yea the pic would be awesome. Thanks for the tips and help. It's really appreciated. I'm not trying to spend 350 on the Gforce crossmember at this point.
I have the drive train sitting on the crossmember and some blocks ,but my levelers chains are too short if the intakes still on. I was tired after changing my s10s transmission solenoids and removing the manifold to head bolts on the swap engine.So I'm removing it after work to get it in the garage so I can change the cam,springs and oil pan. Ill probably fire up the heater and paint it. I'm not sure what to use, I haven't really looked into painting engines.I bought pac 1219 springs since they're 25$ cheaper then 1218s (sloppy tax)and still considered drop in springs. I figured a new cam retainer plate because they're cheap. Super shops oil pan ss11009. It even came with holley shipping paperwork. The cam(Elgin 1840) came with paint or something in between the lobes hopefully I can clean it off. I forgot to take my clamshells off the 350 when I sold it, so I had to buy some umi mounts. I'll deal with headers later once the engine is in and wiring done.
I got off work early and came home to jump on the engine removal. I pulled the intake and underneath was filthy.
I used the valley bolts/holes as pick points. I was yanking on it like this with my chainfall doing the pulling while the hoist does the lifting.
But I forgot to disconnect the fuel lines from the side of the transmission. Once I broke that loose it came right out. When working alone you must think outside the box 😆. Technically my better half pulled the chain on the chainfall while I made sure we weren't breaking sh*t.
I'll remove and label the harness tomorrow and try to clean up the engine a little bit. I need a converter to save myself disappointment when it's done. Any suggestions are appreciated.
I used the valley bolts/holes as pick points. I was yanking on it like this with my chainfall doing the pulling while the hoist does the lifting.
I'll remove and label the harness tomorrow and try to clean up the engine a little bit. I need a converter to save myself disappointment when it's done. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Paint the engine???? Pressure wash and go lol.
And looks like you have squirrel ‘left behinds’ on the valley cover. Wouldn’t be a good motor with those.
And looks like you have squirrel ‘left behinds’ on the valley cover. Wouldn’t be a good motor with those.
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