Thats good news. I hope you put a good amount of thread sealent on them. Also I hope you didnt go by ARP torque spec. I learned that the hard way on my 406.crucial118 said:Thanks for the replies. I picked up some ARP studs today and it worked. I put in the bottom row, short studs and the front and back medium length studs(the back one, by the firewall, was the one that was slightly off). After the head was on, I put the long ones in and hand tightened all, then torqued. So happy I didn't have to pull the block back out.
sbc cylinder head studs on passenger side with ac box?
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I'm also glad you were able to get it done with the head studs and without pulling your engine.
I usually use aftermarket blocks on my performance builds and they have blind head bolt holes so while the engine is on the stand I put the head studs in a couple days before with ARP lube and let the studs "burp" out the air pockets before I install my head gaskets and heads.
I usually use aftermarket blocks on my performance builds and they have blind head bolt holes so while the engine is on the stand I put the head studs in a couple days before with ARP lube and let the studs "burp" out the air pockets before I install my head gaskets and heads.
Good info for the next build. You were absolutely right about not being able to get the heads on with all the studs too. You have to leave the long ones out to get the head on, then put in the long ones with an allen key. I tried, but it just wasn't happening. Chevy2480, what do you mean? I used the ARP torque specs for the nut to stud, 3 increments to 80ft/lbs.565bbchevy said:
80lbs is way to much with a stock 400 block. Its will squeeze the upper cylinder walls in toward pistons and after awhile will lead to engine failure. I torqued my 406 to the arp spec. But lucky for me after 15min of running studs started to leak so i removed heads to fix studs and found cylinder issue and that was done after a few minutes. The block is suppost to be honed using your studs and a deck plate torqued to spec so that doesnt happen. I will post link to my thread if i can find it.
from what I have been told if you use the arp lubricant then you torque the bolts to the arp specs, if you use something else you use the GM specs
After having the block sent out and plate honed. I torqued them to 50lbs. I talked to arp and a few local well know builders and they all said the same thing 50lb no more on a stock block decks and cylinder walls way to weak. And these guys know there stuff.crucial118 said:
Ya thats what i thought used arp lubricant and as you can see from pic thats not the case on a stock production block.pontiacgp said:
You would think if this is prevalent on stock blocks, that ARP would have changed the torque specs by now, to avoid a possible lawsuit or something. If that's the case, I would question all ARP torque recommendations. Which in turn would cause me(and a lot other customers) to not use ARP at all. I torqued to 80, with the supplied ultra lube, but my torque wrench aint a Snap-on, so it's probably off a little anyway. We'll see, I just can't go against the printed ARP torque specs. I'll give my machinist a call on Monday and see what he has to say. Thanks for the info and pics tho chevy2480.
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