Seeking Assistance/ Paint For Air Cleaner Top

[melloelky]

well whichever type of paint you decide to use, follow their directions and you should be on the rite track.prep is key.

 

[MrSony]

I always use duplicolor satin black for everything that was/will be painted black on my car. looks factory.

 

[synoptic12]

well whichever type of paint you decide to use, follow their directions and you should be on the rite track.prep is key.

Yes, surely. As to the pictures I enclosed, do they appear to be properly prepped?

 

[synoptic12]

I always use duplicolor satin black for everything that was/will be painted black on my car. looks factory.

* Not certain, but I may, may have used Duplicolor last time. Rust-Oleum has been around a long time and will use that brand. No offense to DupliColor.

 

[565bbchevy]

Yes, surely. As to the pictures I enclosed, do they appear to be properly prepped?

For any items I prep with contours I like to use Scotchbrite pads to get into any nooks and crannies so I have a nice even finish and even though an air cleaner lid is typically not going to see extreme amounts of heat I would still use engine enamel or high heat paint and primer with low and semi gloss looking closest to the factory finish.
I personally use Duplicolor ceramic engine enamel on anything engine related but I am sure Rust-Oleum will work just fine and as stated don't mix brands.

 

[synoptic12]

I always use duplicolor satin black for everything that was/will be painted black on my car. looks factory.

* Is Dupl

For any items I prep with contours I like to use Scotchbrite pads to get into any nooks and crannies so I have a nice even finish and even though an air cleaner lid is typically not going to see extreme amounts of heat I would still use engine enamel or high heat paint and primer with low and semi gloss looking closest to the factory finish.
I personally use Duplicolor ceramic engine enamel on anything engine related but I am sure Rust-Oleum will work just fine and as stated don't mix brands.

Those Scotchbrite pads are good, used them before but not on my car. I'll hit the surface with those prior to prime and paint. Thanks again.

 

[melloelky]

Yes, surely. As to the pictures I enclosed, do they appear to be properly prepped?

yes and no,if you sanded the entire thing with 100 then i'd say it's on the coarse side but if you scuffed the rest after chemical removal with say 400-500 you're doing fine.metal that's in good shape doesn't require a lot of "tooth" or for the mechanical adhesion.hand sanding w/paper will always come out rougher by default.pressure,directional inconsistency etc.he's rite the red pads are a good choice.you're gonna be fine.

 

[synoptic12]

yes and no,if you sanded the entire thing with 100 then i'd say it's on the coarse side but if you scuffed the rest after chemical removal with say 400-500 you're doing fine.metal that's in good shape doesn't require a lot of "tooth" or for the mechanical adhesion.hand sanding w/paper will always come out rougher by default.pressure,directional inconsistency etc.he's rite the red pads are a good choice.you're gonna be fine.

I believe you're spot on here, 'Excellent synopsis". I was uncertain of bare metal not requiring a lot of adhesion, 'tooth' as you refer. Should I hit the coarse metal with the Scotchbrite or 4-500 grit to eliminate any coarseness? This is a trivial thing but do not wish to perform this task again. Thank you very much for the beneficial information.

 

[melloelky]

it wouldn't hurt.100's pretty coarse to spray over,especally with spray cans and the like.they're on the thinner side of things and the smoother it is the the better it'll come out.get more of a cosistant finer scratch.if you were priming and sanding with subsquent rounds of primer etc it wouldn't be as necessary.

 

[synoptic12]

it wouldn't hurt.100's pretty coarse to spray over,especially with spray cans and the like.they're on the thinner side of things and the smoother it is the the better it'll come out.get more of a constant finer scratch.if you were priming and sanding with subsequent rounds of primer etc it wouldn't be as necessary.

Thanks, I'm glad you provided that information. I corrected three misspelled words on your reply, "O.K".