The passenger side doesn't point straight. I was thinking they curved like the O.E. pipe going to the cat but its been years since I've had exhaust on the car.
Space City 1982 GP Build
- Thread starter Texas82GP
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Ok guys, I got over to the storage last night and got some pictures. First up, here's a look at the driver's side header from up top. It went in with no difficulty and I don't have any clearance concerns on this side....
I know it looks close on the rear edge of the upper control arm but it isn't. I'll try to remember to get a picture from the side.
Here's a look at the passenger side from up top....
This angle shows that the tube for the front cylinder on this side is very tight to the rear edge of the upper control arm, though it is not as bad as this picture makes it look. The bolt is lower and is not a concern...
Here is a look at the relationship of the driver's side collector with the clutch fork. I don't see any problem here. We'll see what I say when I try to get the clutch equalizer (Z-bar) in there....
Here is a look at the passenger side collector. You can see that the collector is pointing towards the passenger side of the car. I'm convinced at this point that this was deliberate to provide clearance for the stock style starter. I have a smaller Powermaster starter so I don't think I'm going to have any trouble getting it in there....
Here's a look at the biggest clearance problem. The collector is hard against the lower control arm mount on the passenger side....
I was over at the storage for about three hours and I did quite a bit of trimming. I trimmed the rear edge of the upper control arm and I trimmed the lower control arm mount. I had the header in and out of there two or three times. If you look at that coating cross-eyed, it scratches. At this point the collector is not up against the lower control arm mount but I have a little more trimming I want to do before I paint the bare metal.
The other issue is clearance between the passenger header and the brake line. The instructions say to move the brake line from the back of the crossmember to the top of it. I'm having some heartburn from this since I have a new stainless line that fits well and I don't want the end result to look like a hack job. I may have to bend my own brake line, or make a new section and join the two with a flared union fitting. Here is a look at how tight it is. Keep in mind, these views are from under the car looking up...
I bought some thermal insulation from summit that has a foil looking outside and a Velcro seam on it but I think the line is just too close for that to be effective here. Your thoughts?
I'll include some pictures of the trimming when I'm sure I'm finished. I hope to get over to the storage and finish the trimming tonight. Then I'll make a decision on the brake line. That's it for now. Thanks for looking in.
Oh, and I don't know if anyone noticed but I've been reducing the file size of the pictures on the last several posts so these pages will load faster and use less data. I hope it helps. Thanks guys.
I know it looks close on the rear edge of the upper control arm but it isn't. I'll try to remember to get a picture from the side.
Here's a look at the passenger side from up top....
This angle shows that the tube for the front cylinder on this side is very tight to the rear edge of the upper control arm, though it is not as bad as this picture makes it look. The bolt is lower and is not a concern...
Here is a look at the relationship of the driver's side collector with the clutch fork. I don't see any problem here. We'll see what I say when I try to get the clutch equalizer (Z-bar) in there....
Here is a look at the passenger side collector. You can see that the collector is pointing towards the passenger side of the car. I'm convinced at this point that this was deliberate to provide clearance for the stock style starter. I have a smaller Powermaster starter so I don't think I'm going to have any trouble getting it in there....
Here's a look at the biggest clearance problem. The collector is hard against the lower control arm mount on the passenger side....
I was over at the storage for about three hours and I did quite a bit of trimming. I trimmed the rear edge of the upper control arm and I trimmed the lower control arm mount. I had the header in and out of there two or three times. If you look at that coating cross-eyed, it scratches. At this point the collector is not up against the lower control arm mount but I have a little more trimming I want to do before I paint the bare metal.
The other issue is clearance between the passenger header and the brake line. The instructions say to move the brake line from the back of the crossmember to the top of it. I'm having some heartburn from this since I have a new stainless line that fits well and I don't want the end result to look like a hack job. I may have to bend my own brake line, or make a new section and join the two with a flared union fitting. Here is a look at how tight it is. Keep in mind, these views are from under the car looking up...
I bought some thermal insulation from summit that has a foil looking outside and a Velcro seam on it but I think the line is just too close for that to be effective here. Your thoughts?
I'll include some pictures of the trimming when I'm sure I'm finished. I hope to get over to the storage and finish the trimming tonight. Then I'll make a decision on the brake line. That's it for now. Thanks for looking in.
Oh, and I don't know if anyone noticed but I've been reducing the file size of the pictures on the last several posts so these pages will load faster and use less data. I hope it helps. Thanks guys.
When I used the 68310 set I didn't have any clearance or heat issues (but they are thinner gauge steel than the 68318 Elite.) Double check to ensure the engine is not perfectly centered (PIA to loosen the frame mounts but it might give the extra clearance on the control arm.) You have the right idea to insulate, but not sure what would be thin enough to clear.
Was that passenger header maybe bent in shipping? It seems as though if you were to bend the collector twords the engine it would clear and dump straight back
This may be blasphemy, but we learned from Engine Masters on YTube that you can "clearance" the header pipes quite a bit with almost no power loss. Underneath in certain spots, that may be a viable solution. I know the idea of beating on new coated headers is tough, but it may be helpful.
Hutch
Hutch
That is how the collector is designed on those.
You'll like the ball and socket collectors but there is one thing I suggest you change. I would cut the collector flange off and replace it with something heavier. I have the headman headers with the ball and socket collectors and the only problem I have had is the collector flange folding over which loosens the bolts and you can't tighten them after that. Nice thing about the ball and socket is there is no gasket to blow out if the collector loosens up a bit
We always ran a 3'' donut gasket insted of a flat gasket on flat header flanges. Gives you some room for air and will not blow out every other month. My right big block header on my Nova is pointed inwards to the drive shaft. That is why I have 3" duel exhaust setting on the shelf for six years. Will not fit and I don't want to load the car up, take a day off work, and go to the exhaust shop to have my pipe bent. They are big tube Hooker's. I have heard of people sticking a bar in the colector and straighten them, but I would be afraid of cracking them. Best of luck with them.
To me that brake line looks a little too close for comfort for me. If that’s an actual ceramic coating on the headers, that will help to reduce any heat related issues. The coating keeps the heat in the tubes as opposed to radiating it, but even with that I wouldn’t be happy with the proximity.
It sucks to have to do it, but I think if you choose to stick with those headers your only option is to move/relocate the brake line as recommended. You don’t have to go far with it, just down and below the top of the cross member should do it. A couple of careful “field bends” working slowly along from the last mounting point towards the problem area should do it. Then use an additional line clamp or two to keep it where you want it. At least that way it keeps you from having to cut and splice into your nice new brake lines.
Just my $ 0.02 Jared.
Such is the joys of hot rodding. Unfortunately compromises have to be made sometimes.
It sucks to have to do it, but I think if you choose to stick with those headers your only option is to move/relocate the brake line as recommended. You don’t have to go far with it, just down and below the top of the cross member should do it. A couple of careful “field bends” working slowly along from the last mounting point towards the problem area should do it. Then use an additional line clamp or two to keep it where you want it. At least that way it keeps you from having to cut and splice into your nice new brake lines.
Just my $ 0.02 Jared.
Such is the joys of hot rodding. Unfortunately compromises have to be made sometimes.
Looks great with the headers, you are certainly earning a "Built, not bought" tag for the car!
Does Hedman not make a matching exhaust?
Does Hedman not make a matching exhaust?
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