Good god, as a tig welder there is NO way I would trust those shitty mig welds on a street car. Come on guys, let's realize dirt guys tear up suspension-its a way of life for a dirt car. On the street with potholes, hard cornering, etc. It's not a chance worth taking. In a dirt track car you have a harness holding you in with an integrated roll cage protecting you further still. What happens IF a mig weld cracks? Is it worth the risk on the highway with your family in the car all without the benefits of the safety restraints? I know everybody wants to save a buck but brakes and suspension is not the place to do it imo.
Speedway Upper Control Arms
- Thread starter kustomss
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gmachinzz said:
I have no problem trusting them and with all the circle track cars out on every weekend there has never been a weld that has broken. I don't use them to save money, they save weight and they come in different lengths
pontiacgp said:
x2 have been using for a while and never had a problem with them. and if there good enough for crashin at 80 there good enough for my weekend cruiser
True, dirt is far more forgiving than pavement with regards to stress, but for me anyway there is a huge difference in the weld penetration quality of a tig weld vs mig and that is the crux of my position. Like I said, its a chance I'm not willing to make but I understand others may be willing to-I just can't see why anyone would run them on the street unless cost is the sole reason, that's all.
What's the part/model number that fits our cars? I have looked around but havent been able to find a part number.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chromoly- ... ,4853.html
These work. You have to order two right(passenger) sides because they are different lengths on a race car. You want both to be 8" from center of balljoint to center of shaft.
These work. You have to order two right(passenger) sides because they are different lengths on a race car. You want both to be 8" from center of balljoint to center of shaft.
Since UB Machine product has been mentioned I'll include some info on those, and how there p/n system works.
The p/n most resembling arms like speedway, and/or gbodyparts arms is 14-0809-6R as best I can tell(please correct me if I'm wrong)
I'll break it down:
14= the metric/g body ball joint mount
0= ???
80= 8" length center of cross shaft to center of ball joint
9= the metric/g body 6 7/8" cross shaft mount holes
-6= 1 1/2" off set of the ball joint
R= right side, you can order either two of the same or right and left they do the same job but apparently the tops and bottoms look different so if looks is a concern now you know.
The was you change things up simple. For instance another popular p/n 14-0739-5R
73= 7 3/4", 81= 8 1/4", 82= 8 1/2" 83= 8 3/4" and so on.
-5= 1 1/4" offset The offsets I'm not 100% about or way one would be better than the other I think it adjust caster. Hopefully someone will add on.
The p/n most resembling arms like speedway, and/or gbodyparts arms is 14-0809-6R as best I can tell(please correct me if I'm wrong)
I'll break it down:
14= the metric/g body ball joint mount
0= ???
80= 8" length center of cross shaft to center of ball joint
9= the metric/g body 6 7/8" cross shaft mount holes
-6= 1 1/2" off set of the ball joint
R= right side, you can order either two of the same or right and left they do the same job but apparently the tops and bottoms look different so if looks is a concern now you know.
The was you change things up simple. For instance another popular p/n 14-0739-5R
73= 7 3/4", 81= 8 1/4", 82= 8 1/2" 83= 8 3/4" and so on.
-5= 1 1/4" offset The offsets I'm not 100% about or way one would be better than the other I think it adjust caster. Hopefully someone will add on.
I used them all last year driving around on rough roads, no concerns here either. Even had the front tires off the ground at the drag strip with no bumpstops. They do get a little messy though when you grease them
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