Spraying penetrate on body mount bolts

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Used to be a product called "Kroil" and it was advertised as being the oil that creeps. Modern version available otc known as Deep Creep and I have used that with varying degrees of success. All that aside, BIG WARNING TIME!!!

DO NOT go anywhere near those bolts or any others with open flame heat such as a torch once you have applied any type of penetrating oil. Possibly a no-brainer here but heat times the chemicals typically mixed and put under pressure as rust and corrosion attackers can easily result in a violently toxic fog or fumes that, if inhaled, or otherwise exposed to, can put the user in anywhere from emergency to the grave.

Knew an individual who wrote professionally as part of his work. He actually authored a column several years back on how he had used brake cleaner as a means of removing crud and corruption from an assembly he was working on and then attempted to heat several attaching bolts using a torch. He collapsed from the fumes, ended up in hospital on oxygen due to lung issues, and had to go back in again for other problems with various organs, all of which was ultimately traced back to the cleaner he used. Turned out that the version of the brake cleaner that he used possessed a Chloro-Fluorine-Carbon based compound as part of its chemical recipe and when the heat hit the spray residue, it transformed the compound into CHLORINE GAS. While I personally do use Brake Cleaner for just that purpose I deliberately use the CFC free version in the green label can and/or make sure that the product is Chlorine free. I also do not have torches in my shop, not only because of the possibility for chemical poisoning but because I also have wood around for other projects and fire and wood do not mix well unless they are in a fireplace or deep pit.

Nick
 
If the bolts are really really badly seized, the only hope to get them out is to heat the bolts until they glow red. Through if you used penetrating oil on the bolts, then you probably can't torch them. At least until after the oil evaporates away. Last year I had a frozen bolt on my truck that nothing could get loose. Finally tried a Oxy/Mapp torch and bolt came easily out when everything else had failed, even PB Blaster. Heat is the most powerful rust buster, through it poses many safety issues. Generally its a good idea to wear a respirator with spraying anything.
 
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I knew I was going to have issues when I did mine. It's like pulling off a bandaid. Just get in there and take out the bolts that you can, and break the others off. Cut a c into the body above the cage nut, remove it, get the broken bolt out, reinstall, weld c back closed. Not really that big of a deal. Here's what I had to deal with. You can see how good some were, and how bad others were.

IMG_20160530_123128736_zpsjjahqsnu.jpg
 
if I may add, if you do swap out your body mount bolts the imperial bolts and nuts are much cheaper. Did the 4 in the trunk and the 2 under the rad support in my car thus far. Still need to gather the time and courage to do the others
 
I knew I was going to have issues when I did mine. It's like pulling off a bandaid. Just get in there and take out the bolts that you can, and break the others off. Cut a c into the body above the cage nut, remove it, get the broken bolt out, reinstall, weld c back closed. Not really that big of a deal. Here's what I had to deal with. You can see how good some were, and how bad others were.

View attachment 136463
I agree with this... I cannot see how spraying anything would work unless you hole sawed out above the captive nuts as some have stated.
 
I agree with this... I cannot see how spraying anything would work unless you hole sawed out above the captive nuts as some have stated.
That is what I couldn't practically understand. How is spraying the head of a 3" bolt that has a shaft encased in rubber going to help in removing it when the penetrate is going to need to work against gravity through the rubber encasing into a fully encased nut and to the threads of the bolt?

It seemed like a waste of two or three $4 cans of PB.

With that said, I like the idea of cutting above and welding it back. That sounds like a plan of attack. I also like this alternative to cage nuts.


Screenshot_20200225-161950_Chrome.jpg
 
That is what I couldn't practically understand. How is spraying the head of a 3" bolt that has a shaft encased in rubber going to help in removing it when the penetrate is going to need to work against gravity through the rubber encasing into a fully encased nut and to the threads of the bolt?

It seemed like a waste of two or three $4 cans of PB.

With that said, I like the idea of cutting above and welding it back. That sounds like a plan of attack. I also like this alternative to cage nuts.


View attachment 137266
The only problem with the above method (just a bolt with a regular nut) is if you ever did have to remove a body mount the nut will just spin and then you have to cut open from above again
 
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