Suspension setup
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I'd just make something with flat stock with a hole cut to slide over the spring perch.....and a piece of tubing slightly smaller then the inside diameter of the spring and sit that on the spring perch and weld it on
Your bump steer is going to increase and toe out will make the car dart as the suspension travels away from neutral. I would reccomend you take the time to check the bump steer.
You may be a little stiff on the front, build adjustability in; so, you can easily change it. Pontiacgp is correct about the anti roll bar. My 1-3/8 bar is about 785 #/inch.
If you are not running a big engine and going fast, it is less important.
Sudden left turns at triple digits can be exciting.
You may be a little stiff on the front, build adjustability in; so, you can easily change it. Pontiacgp is correct about the anti roll bar. My 1-3/8 bar is about 785 #/inch.
If you are not running a big engine and going fast, it is less important.
Sudden left turns at triple digits can be exciting.
I'll factor it in also, thanks
I don't think it'll be too much of a problem, I'm thinking of going 1/4" toe out and my top speed with 3.50 gears and th350 will be somewhere around 130-140 mph. Most of my driving will be under 70 so it should be tons of fun for turns at 40-60 mph
I'm most likely sticking with the 1 3/8" sway bar, the only reason I would make my own bigger than 1.5" is if the rear tires break loose too easily and I need to stiffen the rear bar. I want it proportionally similar (the front:rear bars about 3:2 diameter ratios)... but I could compensate if at that point it was too tight, then I'd need to rethink my setup and possibly get some looser front springs
I don't think it'll be too much of a problem, I'm thinking of going 1/4" toe out and my top speed with 3.50 gears and th350 will be somewhere around 130-140 mph. Most of my driving will be under 70 so it should be tons of fun for turns at 40-60 mph
I'm most likely sticking with the 1 3/8" sway bar, the only reason I would make my own bigger than 1.5" is if the rear tires break loose too easily and I need to stiffen the rear bar. I want it proportionally similar (the front:rear bars about 3:2 diameter ratios)... but I could compensate if at that point it was too tight, then I'd need to rethink my setup and possibly get some looser front springs
no ....if your car get's loose then it's not the front spring or shock being too stiff....if your car is pushing then it's too tight and the front end then needs to be softened up....spring and/or shock
if the car is loose the front needs to be stiffened up-springs and/or shocks....or it may be the rear shock and you have too much rebound and/or the shock under compression is too soft
but then there are 3 parts to a corner so the adjustments have to be made to set up the car to enter, the middle and then the exit and depending on how the car responds different set ups are required.....
and you said your toe was going be out...why are you setting up like that?....we set out circle track car with the right side toe 0 and the left side 1/8 out so it's point left...the only way we turn ...at least we hope it's the only way we'll be turning....your toe should be in
oh and I calculated the rpm's of your engine at 130 mph based on a wheel diameter of 26.5 to be 6,284....hope you have a strong engine...with those 3.50 gears do you have a ford rear end?
if you're just turning one way then we'd have to look at wedge which is a b!tch to get on a metric....all you can do is to try to even up the weight bias front to back and again on a metric it's impossible unless you want to stick a bunch of lead in the back to even it up but you'll be running real heavy.
if the car is loose the front needs to be stiffened up-springs and/or shocks....or it may be the rear shock and you have too much rebound and/or the shock under compression is too soft
but then there are 3 parts to a corner so the adjustments have to be made to set up the car to enter, the middle and then the exit and depending on how the car responds different set ups are required.....
and you said your toe was going be out...why are you setting up like that?....we set out circle track car with the right side toe 0 and the left side 1/8 out so it's point left...the only way we turn ...at least we hope it's the only way we'll be turning....your toe should be in
oh and I calculated the rpm's of your engine at 130 mph based on a wheel diameter of 26.5 to be 6,284....hope you have a strong engine...with those 3.50 gears do you have a ford rear end?
if you're just turning one way then we'd have to look at wedge which is a b!tch to get on a metric....all you can do is to try to even up the weight bias front to back and again on a metric it's impossible unless you want to stick a bunch of lead in the back to even it up but you'll be running real heavy.
pontiacgp said:
I was actually referring more to the way the rear tires hook up, the car won't be loose at all, and like I said earlier if I need to compensate for more 'grip' or tightening the rear then I'd have to get a larger diameter front bar and a softer front spring... along with the larger rear sway bar
I'm thinking this won't be a problem after I box in the frame and add some stiff bracing
it isn't a circle track car, it's just a street car that I won't be driving every day. I'd like to take it to a skidpad or autocross and have some fun. I'd also like to take it to a drag every now and then. Since I can't have both I need to choose which one I want it for. So I choose handling, which is why I've been looking up all this suspension mess for the past year. Toe out on the front wheels only, (the rear won't be changed at all).
You set your cars up like that to decrease wear and hold better on the turn. When you're turning both ways, a (front) toe in will keep the car in a straight line, and a toe out will help with cornering.
It was just a guestimate, the rear will be from 3.42-3.5 and yes it'll be a 9". I've got no need to go that fast really, so I don't care about handling on the top end.
if your concerned with the toe during cornering it would really help if you set up the bump steer. You'll be pleasantly surprised with the difference...
well, I am addressing the bump steer, I'm going to get all new bearings and hard shocks to minimize tramp/shimmy, but there's really only so much I can do. If I want to perfect it I'll have to take measurements and that's something for me to do in the future cuz I already have too much to do now :shock:
The other good thing is my toe will be out, so on bump steer it will have a tendency to throw the toe out farther for more understeer. That's at the least better and more responsive than bump oversteer
But that's where it gets complicated, I don't want to spend tons of money making it pull 1.5 g's, I just want a car that handles better than most any cars on the road using stock suspension components. The goal is to handle better than some 2000$ kit for less than a few hundred $$(- minus wheels/tires)
After my engine install, next step is rear end, then the suspension, so on my budget I've got a ways to go. Could be as far as 6 months from now
The other good thing is my toe will be out, so on bump steer it will have a tendency to throw the toe out farther for more understeer. That's at the least better and more responsive than bump oversteer
But that's where it gets complicated, I don't want to spend tons of money making it pull 1.5 g's, I just want a car that handles better than most any cars on the road using stock suspension components. The goal is to handle better than some 2000$ kit for less than a few hundred $$(- minus wheels/tires)
After my engine install, next step is rear end, then the suspension, so on my budget I've got a ways to go. Could be as far as 6 months from now
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