Suspension setup

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I already got my front ideas squared away, but does someone make a 1.5" drop spring for the back? That's the only link I'm missing

😛 I'd like to see the look on a beamer owner's face when we turn circles around them with our old boats
 
pontiacgp said:
nice, I was trying to find the spring rate of those...and as far as the price if they work and they're what you want then they are worth it.... 🙂

well it would be even more worth it if I could find the same thing for half the price, but they do make it simple. I'd like to find the spring rate so when I head to the skidpad and test the cornering force I can list what parts/pieces and specs I used here on the forum

you would have loved my friends face when we were coming up onto the corner...he kept saying "we have to turn there you know"..but I wasn't slowing down......he got out of the car and said he couldn't believe that car stuck like it did around the corner...lol

haha yes!
 
Thanks man!

that's just what I was lookin for. I might do my suspension before I get a new rear end... but I probably shouldn't
 
What cross weight are you going to run with your set up?
 
One question-Why would you want to lower the tire pressure? When I autocrossed regularly, I found best cornering to be around 40-45 psi front, and 35-40 psi rear, depending on the car. All were American cars, '67 Chevelle, '73 442, '77 Camaro & '79 Corvette. Granted, yesterday's cars were heavier, but anything less than 35 psi in a front tire might have you cornering on the sidewall. Also, If you're really getting serious about cornering, look into one of the kits that use the taller B-body spindles. You'll minimize or eliminate camber gain in roll, a big problem with most stock arm/spindle setups. When I autocrossed regularly, we would drive to the course, then insert 3/8' shim packs in the upper arms once at the track, to change our camber, then take 'em back out to drive home.

Bill
 
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