BUILD THREAD Sweet Johnny & Gina: A Love "Two Large" To Fail

I'm in the process of replacing some interior trim and recoating every single piece in the appropriate shade of black, which I feel most people probably won't notice since they only see Flat or Gloss. I think I've found something that'll work just fine- you be the judge. For my first test pieces I chose the little alcoves for the coat hooks in the rear cabin area since they rarely ever saw the sun: they didn't look brand new but weren't really faded so I figured they'd work for a color comparo. The concave surfaces really help to inspect the gloss level when looking at them in the light, and I think it's a darn good match.

Only 1 of these pieces has been painted, the other is clean with no protective coating.

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The paint seems to stick well to vinyl, rubber, and plastic with only minor adhesion issues on perfectly smooth surfaces. If you don't scuff the part you can scratch it off the backside of kick panels until you apply heat, and 2 to 3 coats of paint seems to be plenty to change colors.

This is only one coat applied by my finger:

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The trash can started life sporting Camel Tan and still needs another coat or 2.

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This horn button used to be Briar Brown.

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Today didn't go as planned so I didn't get much done and I've still got a lot more to do, but I'm pleased with how the black interior pieces are turning out so far.
 
I’d run the protective coating, but be sure to let the stuff fully cure. I wrapped my GP armrests in bubble wrap and the clear from GBP turned sticky. And left bubble imprints in them
Thanks for chiming in, I'm always hungry for thoughts/opinions from you guys. I definitely don't want things to leave imprints or for the trim to get sticky, but currently have no protective coating in mind. I'm open to it of course, I just wouldn't know what to use other than the GBP Clear or something similar.

What I should have said in my post above was "one piece has been painted with Satin Black Acrylic and the other was cleaned with oven cleaner with no Meguiar's applied to either".

You definitely know more about paint than I do, what would you use to protect acrylic paint?
 
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I would use an acrylic clear for non flexible parts, and the GBP clear or whoever’s system’s clear you’d be pulling the trigger on for flexible parts. The only issues I had were the armrests, the hard plastic pieces were left to sit for a couple days before they were installed -and in the case of my driver’s lower door panel, a day- and all those pieces turned out fine. I think keeping the armrests covered caused the clear to soften or something was degassing, as they were tacky until recently.
 
Thanks for the tip! And I'll be sure to let the panels and pieces air out for considerable time before handling them so they can breathe.

I haven't decided how/what to do about my door panels but the bottoms are definitely getting replaced with some I purchased from 84cutlasssupreme, they just need dyed. Keeping the original tops is the quickest and cheapest, though they need dyed as well because they're basically blue now.

Does anyone have a good way to actually dye the carpet or fabric though? The aerosol stuff leaves a lot to be desired, and I tried spraying a headrest with Rit but it doesn't seem to work as well as I need it to.
 
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Does anyone have a good way to actually dye the carpet or fabric though? The aerosol stuff leaves a lot to be desired, and I tried spraying a headrest with Rit but it doesn't seem to work as well as I need it to.
Here's some of PPG's info on their way of doing carpet & velour. Follow the basic instructions on how to do it & use what product you have.
 

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Here's some of PPG's info on their way of doing carpet & velour. Follow the basic instructions on how to do it & use what product you have.
Awesome, thank you! I'll probably spend the rest of tonight looking into this PPG system further.
 
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I'm in the process of replacing some interior trim and recoating every single piece in the appropriate shade of black, which I feel most people probably won't notice since they only see Flat or Gloss. I think I've found something that'll work just fine- you be the judge. For my first test pieces I chose the little alcoves for the coat hooks in the rear cabin area since they rarely ever saw the sun: they didn't look brand new but weren't really faded so I figured they'd work for a color comparo. The concave surfaces really help to inspect the gloss level when looking at them in the light, and I think it's a darn good match.

Only 1 of these pieces has been painted, the other is clean with no protective coating.



The paint seems to stick well to vinyl, rubber, and plastic with only minor adhesion issues on perfectly smooth surfaces. If you don't scuff the part you can scratch it off the backside of kick panels until you apply heat, and 2 to 3 coats of paint seems to be plenty to change colors.

This is only one coat applied by my finger:



The trash can started life sporting Camel Tan and still needs another coat or 2.

View attachment 245673

This horn button used to be Briar Brown.



Today didn't go as planned so I didn't get much done and I've still got a lot more to do, but I'm pleased with how the black interior pieces are turning out so far.
I bought one of those trashcans/map_holder for the '78 Olds and it crumbled in my hand! 🙁 I'm half-heartedly trying to fix it with bondo, but likely just can it at this point.
 
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I bought one of those trashcans/map_holder for the '78 Olds and it crumbled in my hand! 🙁 I'm half-heartedly trying to fix it with bondo, but likely just can it at this point.
Oh man that sucks, they're not easy to find. I've never tried it, but there's a fiberglass repair tape that's activated by water and supposedly sets hard as a rock. Maybe that could add the support that the Bondo can't provide.
 
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