temp gauge
- Thread starter digimurda
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Don't you think it's possible that the 20+ year old gauge just doesn't want to work anymore :idea:
Just to clarify for everyone here...
There are TWO temperature sensors for an 81-88 307 Olds.
The sensor closest to the coolent neck is for the gauges and has two wires, one wire is green with a white stripe and goes to the check engine / temp light, the other is green and goes to the gauges.
Usually throws everyone off when you see two wires on a temp sender but in reality only one of the wires goes to the gauge.
The second sensor is strictly for the computer to know when the car is at operating temperature.
If your gauges aren't working its most likely due to the gauge cluster or the actual wire harness itself corroding under the dash and not the sensor. Check to see if your gauges are loose, that is often the problem of everyone wondering why their gauges don't work. 9 times out of ten it's not the sensor or the gauge but the connections and the wiring.
Here is a good fix to avoid any further problems:
Remove the cluster, you'll notice the 2 small guage pairs are clipped onto a circuit board. This board is secured from behind the cluster. Remove the nuts from back there, and pull out the circuit board. Take care not to lose any of the washers that may be there, and take note of their positions. Once removed, notice all the connection points on the board, held on by thin speednuts. Retighten all these nuts, since they've probably all worked loose.
There are TWO temperature sensors for an 81-88 307 Olds.
The sensor closest to the coolent neck is for the gauges and has two wires, one wire is green with a white stripe and goes to the check engine / temp light, the other is green and goes to the gauges.
Usually throws everyone off when you see two wires on a temp sender but in reality only one of the wires goes to the gauge.
The second sensor is strictly for the computer to know when the car is at operating temperature.
If your gauges aren't working its most likely due to the gauge cluster or the actual wire harness itself corroding under the dash and not the sensor. Check to see if your gauges are loose, that is often the problem of everyone wondering why their gauges don't work. 9 times out of ten it's not the sensor or the gauge but the connections and the wiring.
Here is a good fix to avoid any further problems:
Remove the cluster, you'll notice the 2 small guage pairs are clipped onto a circuit board. This board is secured from behind the cluster. Remove the nuts from back there, and pull out the circuit board. Take care not to lose any of the washers that may be there, and take note of their positions. Once removed, notice all the connection points on the board, held on by thin speednuts. Retighten all these nuts, since they've probably all worked loose.
88hurstolds said:
cool will try that this afternoon, but is it possible for it to be that even though the the gauge moves from min to max when grounded?
Then your sensor is bad or not hooked up properly, this should be a cheap 10 min fix... sensors are still available.digimurda said:
88hurstolds said:
I've replaced it twice, but I've noticed that it does not screw in completely like the factory one or the one I replaced on the right, must be because it's a Autozone part?
So in a SBC there is also two sensors? Thus the one on the top of the coolant neck and the one on the DS of the block? What does the coolneck sensor check? Same question for the block...
well since you changed the sensor twice already have you checked that your getting a good connection on the pigtail you spliced in and covered with tape? or that its plugged in all the way? also maybe check your gauge fuse, it never hurts to double check
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