If you are going all out get a new tensioner and if it has a plastic pulley use you original steel one. Also don't forget the pcv valve in the intake
Texas82GP's Roadmaster
- Thread starter Texas82GP
- Start date
Thanks for the feedback. It is appreciated. I have a new PCV valve and grommet in the intake. The new tensioner went on tonight with the new belt. It is a Delco with a metal pulley. Keep the suggestions coming. I don't want to miss something.
Also if you haven't replaced the heater core flush it both ways with light pressure before you button it up. They originally came with dex cool and back in those days the dealer loved to put the stop leak pellets in everything that came thru the doors. Behind the knock sensors and the in the heater core seems to be where it all ends up.
I'm fully expecting a burnout video once it's back together. 
I'm not looking to build a sleeper. My guess is the 105k mile 4L60E would hold up for about 5 minutes behind a turbo. Besides, did you forget....
This thread made me notice a $600 lt1 roadmaster 4dr with a "miss" on FB marketplace yesterday morning. I went back to look at it last evening and it was gone (I assume sold, thank god). I don't need another project car lol.
Put a hitch on this roadmaster it it will damn near displace your Sierra for all towing needs 😛
Put a hitch on this roadmaster it it will damn near displace your Sierra for all towing needs 😛
I'll be interested in hearing your impression of how it runs when its all finished, as opposed to how it ran before you started the work on it.
I worked on the car all weekend. It's back together and running. I drove it 50 miles last night.
Saturday morning, I started with replacing the shift shaft seal on the transmission. I thought this might be the hardest part of my day so I wanted to attack it first. I used this tool to extract the old seal....
The idea is the conical threads grab the I.D. of the metal seal body and then the jack bolt pushes against the shift shaft and pulls the seal out. I had a hard time getting the tool to grab. The Driver's side exhaust pipe runs right in front of the shift shaft. The directions say some light tapping might be required to help get the tool to grab. With the exhaust in the way, I didn't have much luck with trying to tap. What ended up working for me was i put the end of my hammer handle against the end of the removal tool and used the exhaust pipe as a fulcrum and then turned the tool with a wrench while putting inward pressure on it. Once I got the tool to bite, the seal came right out. The new seal has two lips, which are relocated relative to where the single lip was in the original seal. This way, the new seal lips are riding on a previously unused portion of the shift shaft....
Replacing the seal and the transmission pan gasket appears to have succeeded in stopping the transmission fluid leaks. WIN.
Next, I installed the oil filter adapter, oil cooler hose assembly and oil filter. Then I replaced the oil level sensor in the pan. I replaced the seal as well which is a washer with a rubber center section. I later realized the new sensor came with an O-ring, which I didn't use. I'm guessing I was supposed to use it instead of the original style seal. It appears to be seeping after my 50 mile ride so I'll have to pull the sensor and install the O-ring and decide whether to keep or remove the washer style seal. I buttoned up the wiring for the left front O2 sensor and low oil level sensor, including re-wrapping the harness with this stuff....
Then I installed the torque converter cover and the starter. Then I re-wrapped the A/C lines on passenger side of the engine with that foil tape. What they had on them had lost most of its foil. Then I worked on assembling the heater hoses. I bought a Delco assembly that includes the Tee, the restrictor and the front hanger bracket. It's a nice piece and made getting the heater hoses back in, as original, easy......
I pressed on and installed the new upper and lower radiator hoses, the hose from the throttle body to the coolant tank, and the new coolant tank itself. I was pretty close to having this thing ready to fire but I was out of gas. It was 6:30 and I'd been there since 9:30. I didn't stop for lunch. I packed up the shop and went home. Still, it had been a good day....
To be continued.......
Saturday morning, I started with replacing the shift shaft seal on the transmission. I thought this might be the hardest part of my day so I wanted to attack it first. I used this tool to extract the old seal....
The idea is the conical threads grab the I.D. of the metal seal body and then the jack bolt pushes against the shift shaft and pulls the seal out. I had a hard time getting the tool to grab. The Driver's side exhaust pipe runs right in front of the shift shaft. The directions say some light tapping might be required to help get the tool to grab. With the exhaust in the way, I didn't have much luck with trying to tap. What ended up working for me was i put the end of my hammer handle against the end of the removal tool and used the exhaust pipe as a fulcrum and then turned the tool with a wrench while putting inward pressure on it. Once I got the tool to bite, the seal came right out. The new seal has two lips, which are relocated relative to where the single lip was in the original seal. This way, the new seal lips are riding on a previously unused portion of the shift shaft....
Replacing the seal and the transmission pan gasket appears to have succeeded in stopping the transmission fluid leaks. WIN.
Next, I installed the oil filter adapter, oil cooler hose assembly and oil filter. Then I replaced the oil level sensor in the pan. I replaced the seal as well which is a washer with a rubber center section. I later realized the new sensor came with an O-ring, which I didn't use. I'm guessing I was supposed to use it instead of the original style seal. It appears to be seeping after my 50 mile ride so I'll have to pull the sensor and install the O-ring and decide whether to keep or remove the washer style seal. I buttoned up the wiring for the left front O2 sensor and low oil level sensor, including re-wrapping the harness with this stuff....
Then I installed the torque converter cover and the starter. Then I re-wrapped the A/C lines on passenger side of the engine with that foil tape. What they had on them had lost most of its foil. Then I worked on assembling the heater hoses. I bought a Delco assembly that includes the Tee, the restrictor and the front hanger bracket. It's a nice piece and made getting the heater hoses back in, as original, easy......
I pressed on and installed the new upper and lower radiator hoses, the hose from the throttle body to the coolant tank, and the new coolant tank itself. I was pretty close to having this thing ready to fire but I was out of gas. It was 6:30 and I'd been there since 9:30. I didn't stop for lunch. I packed up the shop and went home. Still, it had been a good day....
To be continued.......
Don't be afraid to add a little RTV to that oil level washer next time.
