Texas82GP's Roadmaster

slow 442

Greasemonkey
Jan 16, 2014
137
161
43
11377
If you are going all out get a new tensioner and if it has a plastic pulley use you original steel one. Also don't forget the pcv valve in the intake
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users

Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Apr 3, 2015
7,989
18,702
113
Spring, Texas
If you are going all out get a new tensioner and if it has a plastic pulley use you original steel one. Also don't forget the pcv valve in the intake
Thanks for the feedback. It is appreciated. I have a new PCV valve and grommet in the intake. The new tensioner went on tonight with the new belt. It is a Delco with a metal pulley. Keep the suggestions coming. I don't want to miss something.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users

slow 442

Greasemonkey
Jan 16, 2014
137
161
43
11377
Also if you haven't replaced the heater core flush it both ways with light pressure before you button it up. They originally came with dex cool and back in those days the dealer loved to put the stop leak pellets in everything that came thru the doors. Behind the knock sensors and the in the heater core seems to be where it all ends up.
 
  • Like
  • Informative
Reactions: 2 users
Nov 4, 2012
6,021
12,756
113
I'm fully expecting a burnout video once it's back together. :popcorn:
 
  • Haha
  • Optimistic
Reactions: 1 users

Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Apr 3, 2015
7,989
18,702
113
Spring, Texas
Slap a Ding How turbo on it, and HERE'S your "sleeper"!
I'm not looking to build a sleeper. My guess is the 105k mile 4L60E would hold up for about 5 minutes behind a turbo. Besides, did you forget....
I'm more of a big inch, naturally aspirated (limp penis) kind of guy
 
  • Haha
Reactions: 4 users

81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,649
13,565
113
Western MN
This thread made me notice a $600 lt1 roadmaster 4dr with a "miss" on FB marketplace yesterday morning. I went back to look at it last evening and it was gone (I assume sold, thank god). I don't need another project car lol.

Put a hitch on this roadmaster it it will damn near displace your Sierra for all towing needs :p
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users

clean8485

Comic Book Super Hero
Dec 18, 2005
2,863
2,158
113
Ontario, Canada
I'll be interested in hearing your impression of how it runs when its all finished, as opposed to how it ran before you started the work on it.
 
  • Like
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 users

Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Apr 3, 2015
7,989
18,702
113
Spring, Texas
I worked on the car all weekend. It's back together and running. I drove it 50 miles last night.

Saturday morning, I started with replacing the shift shaft seal on the transmission. I thought this might be the hardest part of my day so I wanted to attack it first. I used this tool to extract the old seal....

61xhss7B-IL._AC_SY355_.jpg


The idea is the conical threads grab the I.D. of the metal seal body and then the jack bolt pushes against the shift shaft and pulls the seal out. I had a hard time getting the tool to grab. The Driver's side exhaust pipe runs right in front of the shift shaft. The directions say some light tapping might be required to help get the tool to grab. With the exhaust in the way, I didn't have much luck with trying to tap. What ended up working for me was i put the end of my hammer handle against the end of the removal tool and used the exhaust pipe as a fulcrum and then turned the tool with a wrench while putting inward pressure on it. Once I got the tool to bite, the seal came right out. The new seal has two lips, which are relocated relative to where the single lip was in the original seal. This way, the new seal lips are riding on a previously unused portion of the shift shaft....

20200215_115209-1134x2016.jpg


Replacing the seal and the transmission pan gasket appears to have succeeded in stopping the transmission fluid leaks. WIN.

Next, I installed the oil filter adapter, oil cooler hose assembly and oil filter. Then I replaced the oil level sensor in the pan. I replaced the seal as well which is a washer with a rubber center section. I later realized the new sensor came with an O-ring, which I didn't use. I'm guessing I was supposed to use it instead of the original style seal. It appears to be seeping after my 50 mile ride so I'll have to pull the sensor and install the O-ring and decide whether to keep or remove the washer style seal. I buttoned up the wiring for the left front O2 sensor and low oil level sensor, including re-wrapping the harness with this stuff....

41z+35wyOEL._AC_SY400_.jpg


Then I installed the torque converter cover and the starter. Then I re-wrapped the A/C lines on passenger side of the engine with that foil tape. What they had on them had lost most of its foil. Then I worked on assembling the heater hoses. I bought a Delco assembly that includes the Tee, the restrictor and the front hanger bracket. It's a nice piece and made getting the heater hoses back in, as original, easy......

20200215_155606-2016x1134.jpg


I pressed on and installed the new upper and lower radiator hoses, the hose from the throttle body to the coolant tank, and the new coolant tank itself. I was pretty close to having this thing ready to fire but I was out of gas. It was 6:30 and I'd been there since 9:30. I didn't stop for lunch. I packed up the shop and went home. Still, it had been a good day....

20200216_102301-2016x1134.jpg


To be continued.......
 
  • Like
Reactions: 8 users

DRIVEN

Geezer
Apr 25, 2009
8,079
14,555
113
*CENSORED*
Don't be afraid to add a little RTV to that oil level washer next time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor