Texas82GP's Roadmaster

I figured Sunday would be a short, easy day. Boy was I wrong. I started with replacing the fuel filter. Easy. I just took a bit of a gasoline shower on my left arm. Then I installed the air intake. Then, 5 quarts of oil, 4.5 quarts of transmission fluid, and two gallons of coolant and I was ready to hook up the battery and give it a crank. No keys! I had accidentally taken the set of keys home in my pocket weeks ago and never brought them back. I ran home and got the keys.

I cranked it up. It took a few attempts since the fuel rail and filter were empty. It cranked up and had a lifter knocking. After a little bit it started pumping up and quieting down. I glanced under the car and then checked the dash for any warning lights. Then I spotted a rapidly forming lake of oil under the front left corner of the car. Great.

I shut the car off and set about cleaning up the mess on the floor and under the hood. It was the upper oil cooler hose where it connects to the radiator that was leaking. I pulled the air intake and got some wrenches on the fittings. They were tight, but the line wasn't. Strange. I futzed around with it for probably a half hour before I came to the conclusion there was something wrong with either the flare or the flare nut on that upper oil cooler hose. I couldn't visibly see anything wrong with it. I took the brass adapter fitting out of the radiator and I could get a spare piece of 3/8 hard line to tighten up in it but I could not get that oil cooler line to tighten up. So, I cut that flare off, threw the flare nut away and out came the Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool.....

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Put everything back together and check the oil. Bottom of the safe zone. Ok to idle. Crank it up. Oil leak fixed. I let it start warming up. I'm keeping an eye on it but I'm putting up tools. I have the cap off the coolant tank and am waiting for the thermostat to open. The next thing I know the temperature starts climbing and the coolant tank contents start roiling. I quickly put the cap on and after the temp climbed some more, I shut it down. I decided to let it cool and finish putting up tools. I go back and check on it, and the tank looks empty. I feel the lower hose and it's hot. Ok, the thermostat has opened. I must have overcome an air pocket. I pull the cap, put about a half gallon of coolant into it and crank it back up. I decide to install the battery hold down. When I bought the car, it had none. I had the plastic block in my spares but had to source the correct bolt online. Before I can get the hold down installed the coolant tank gets away from me and boils over making a big mess under the hood and on the ground. I'm pretty pissed at this point.

I get it cut off and get the cap back on the tank. I clean up the mess on the floor and, as best I can, under the hood. I've been opening the bleader screw on the water outlet the whole time but getting nothing but coolant since putting the first two gallons in. I'm frustrated. It's 3 o'clock by now. I put a big fan in front of it, roll the door down and then go to lunch. After eating, I go on a vain search for a quart of Valvoline conventional 5W-30 oil. There is none to be had. Valvoline has rebranded the product and now it is "Daily Protection Synthetic Blend." I grudgingly settled for a quart of that.

I go back. I top up the oil and coolant. I crank up the car with the cap off and turn on the A/C. I start getting the car off the stands. I catch the level in the bottle get high and put the cap on just in time to avoid another mess. There is some roiling in the bottle but the thermostat is open and the car is maintaining its temperature. I torque the wheels, install the front hubcaps and adjust the tire pressures. I check the transmission fluid and add a bit less than half a quart.

Then I took the car for a 50 mile drive. It mostly seems the same. The idle in gear with the A/C running seems very smooth though. The idle in park or neutral doesn't seem as smooth as it should be.

If I let the car shift into overdrive and then the torque converter locks up at relatively low speed, like 48 MPH there is a feeling like misfire that I don't remember from before all this work. If you roll into the throttle while experiencing this, it gets worse until the converter unlocks. The car runs right otherwise.

I used AC Delco Rapidfire spark plugs for this tuneup. I gapped them at 0.060", which is Delco's recommendation. The sticker on the core support says to gap them to 0.050" though. I've read some recommendations online to gap them at 0.045". I'm wondering if what I'm describing as misfire when the torque converter is locked at low speed is caused by having the plugs gapped too wide?

I'm also smelling a fuel smell. I can't find any evidence of a fuel leak. I smell it strongest at the Driver's rear of the car. I can't smell it under the hood. Yesterday, when I was stopped at traffic lights I thought I could smell it.I'm wondering if it is running rich and that's what I'm smelling.

So, it's back together and it has benefited from a lot of work and new parts but there is more work to be done. It's not quite right yet. I need to get the scanner on it and will probably regap the plugs. I'll also work on curing the seeping oil at the oil level sensor.

That's it for now friends. As always, thanks for the interest and the feedback.

Jared
 
There's some disappointment in there, for sure.
How do you like that flaring set? I've had my eye on that one but the price makes me hesitant.
 
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There's some disappointment in there, for sure.
How do you like that flaring set? I've had my eye on that one but the price makes me hesitant.
Yeah, I just have to keep working. Once I get it the way I want it, I should enjoy years and years of trouble free miles.

I love the flaring tool. It was expensive but the quality is awesome. I sure was glad to have it yesterday.

I bought it probably 8-10 years ago and I made quite a bit less money back then so buying it was a bit of a hardship. I bought it to make a custom stainless fuel line to run between the Corvette fuel filter/pressure regulator and the LS1 braided fuel hose off the fuel rail on Sean's Camaro. The flaring tool makes the GM fuel quick connect "barbs" that I needed. It also makes metric bubble flares. It's an awesome tool to have in the toolbox.
 
Saturday morning I went back to the storage and this is what I saw under the car....

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It turned out it was the low oil level sensor, which I knew about....

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I put a wrench on it and decided it wasn't tight enough. I tightened it up and cleaned up the area. This was the only place I could see any evidence of a leak so really, my re-seal work appears to have been a success. The shift shaft seal on the transmission is dry.....

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Thanks for the tip on the improved design seal, Jeff. I moved on and tightened up the gap on the spark plugs. I had them at 0.060" and reset them to 0.045". Then I took a few more pics for you guys on how it looks all back together....

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A look at the driver's side plug wires....

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A look from underneath...

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Next, I put the scanner on it and looked for something obvious. No codes. The coolant temperature sensor (CTS) and intake air temperature (IAT) sensor readings were both very believable. The throttle position sensor seems to work through the range very smoothly. I put the wheels back on it, got it off the stands, torqued the lug nuts and put the front hubcaps back on it. I checked the fluids and cranked it up. It cranked right up but re-gapping the plugs doesn't seem to have changed anything. I drove it probably another 30 miles or so under varying conditions from boulevard cruising to the highway. I can tell that it has been tuned up but something is still bothering it. I tried watching the tuner while driving but didn't have much luck. I can tell you that when the car was fully warmed up the CTS and IAT readings had adjusted and were quite believable. The front O2 sensors are responding. I saw the voltage vary from about 0.1-0.7 volt and it was continually changing. At idle the long term fuel trim on one bank was like -0.2 and was +1.6 on the other. I'm thinking that is a clue but I have more homework to do on understanding that. The sound of the exhaust tells me there is some at least partial misfire at idle. The idle quality in park tells me the same. It's not bad but it isn't quite what it should be.

When I backed the car into the driveway at home, I realized that it had this same issue before all of this work. I can feel misfire when backing the car uphill into the driveway. What I felt Saturday evening backing it in was the same as what I had felt before and it was a sort of "ah-ha" moment for me. The only other time I feel misfire is at low RPM when the torque converter locks. I don't remember feeling that before but my gut tells me it was there. Otherwise the car runs well. It pulls well when you give it the gas to get on the highway. It's pretty smooth. I'm thinking about having the fuel injectors professionally cleaned by the shop by my office that does all the work to our survey trucks. I'm thinking I have a partially clogged injector. I thought about putting all new injectors on it while I had the fuel rail off but unless if I had bought the cheap ones it was pretty expensive.

I kept the car at the house overnight from Saturday to Sunday. Sunday I took it back to the storage. The weather isn't great here today and I don't want to drive it with the splash shields off of the inner fenders. I don't want to put the new splash shields on since the car needs control arm bushings, especially the uppers. I didn't want to waste Sunday, so this happened....

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I only tore the driver's side down. I had to pull the intermediate steering shaft and had to pull the brake lines loose from the frame to get the upper control arm out. I have new Moog control arms and new springs. I'm not replacing the steering linkage. It's in good shape. I double checked this side's outer tie rod end once I had it loose and there's nothing wrong with it. I think all it really needed was upper control arm bushings and springs but once you are in there replacing the springs, it seems like a good time to do all the bushings and balljoints. The sway bar links were pretty crusty.

When I got it on stands I saw that the low oil level sensor was still seeping. I put the wrench on it and it didn't seem tight, again. So I tightened it some more and cleaned the oil pan again. We'll see how I did the next time I get over there. I may have to stop being stubborn and pull the sensor and put some RTV on it as Driven recommended.

That's it for now I guess. As always feedback is welcome and appreciated. Thanks for following along friends.

Jared
 
You do some fine work. I have a 95 SS you could do next.😉 Plug wires are fun aren't they. My headers went any better.:doh:
 
I had a buddy with a 96 impala ss. He had alot of the same issues you do. It ran rough at idle or under load. There were no codes thrown. We replaced his original optispark with an msd. It didn't work. We thought it was just bad luck so sent it back for another. Still not working. So I went to the junkyard and got an original. Threw it in and it ran like a top. For some reason the aftermarket optis are finnicky as hell. Im probably wrong but just throwin it out there.
 
New injectors have a new part number best I can find.

19244617 superseded the old p/n of 17124248. Amazon sells them for 98 bucks each! Even if it cost you $200 to clean them, pay it!
 
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I can’t remember, did you flush the transmission fluid or just add some before driving? I recently bought the wife a Yukon and the stumble that I swore was a DOD issue turned out to be trans fluid that absorbed moisture. A flush with some synthetic fluid has since fixed the issue. YMMV
 
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