Texas82GP's Roadmaster

The gaskets for the throttle body came in Thursday so that night, after work, I put the throttle body back together. It turned out pretty nice....

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I worked on the car all weekend. I took Friday off to work on it. I went over to the storage Friday morning planning to pull the valve covers for new gaskets and then to start going back together. I was probably going to do the plugs and wires after the valve cover gaskets and then start putting the front of the engine back together. This happened instead....

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There is oil on the starter, the torque converter inspection cover and the transmission pan. This has been bothering me. I spent a lot of time Friday morning with a mirror and light looking for the source of the leak. I concluded that the valve cover gaskets were not leaking but that there was an oil leak at the back of the intake. You can't really see it in the picture above but when I pulled the intake, you could clearly see oil under the RTV on the top of the rear lifter valley wall. There was also a lot of crud on the back of the intake and on the bellhousing. I may still have problems after this repair but I want to eliminate this source and then take it from there. It took me pretty much the whole day to get it torn down. I took the intake home with me for cleaning. Some really good news is how clean the lifter valley is. There is no sludge. The engine has been maintained.

Saturday morning I went to the storage to pull the valve covers and to clean all the sealing surfaces for them and the intake. After getting the covers off, I'm certain they weren't leaking but I wanted to clean them up and I might as well give them new gaskets while I'm here. Admittedly though, there was nothing wrong with the gaskets on them. I got that done by the early afternoon. Here's a shot....

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There is no sludge build up in the heads either. The engine is really clean internally. At that point I took the valve covers and the steam pipe home with the plan of getting started on cleaning parts. I went to Dad's to borrow his set of engine cleaning brushes and went to Home Depot and picked up a cheap tote to clean the intake in. I cleaned the outside of the intake with Simple Green and small wire brushes. By around 6 that night I was done with the outside and it was looking much better. I still wanted to do something for the inside and for the valley though. I ended up rinsing off the manifold and rinsing out the tote. I put the manifold back in and submerged it in about 10 gallons of hot water and a generous amount of regular dish washing soap and let it soak overnight. The next morning I gave the intake a second effort concentrating on the valley and going after the runners and inside the plenum with the engine cleaning brushes. It isn't spotless but I'm happy with it. I also gave the valve covers a quick clean. They were easy and the finish on them is nice enough that I'm not going to paint them....

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That got me to late Sunday afternoon and that's where I stopped. The plan for next Saturday is to reset the intake on the engine and get the valve covers back on it. Then start going back together. Before I get too far I'm going to do the three seals on the front of the engine, install the Optispark and do the plugs and wires. That way, hopefully the plugs and wires will be easier to do before I put a lot of the parts back on the car.

That's it for now friends. I have a little homework to do this week to be prepared to reset the intake. I've seen some recommendations to use a stud in the front and rear bolt hole on one bank of the engine to guide the manifold down straight. I'm going to look into that. There are plenty of parts to clean as well. Hopefully I have another good update next Monday. Until then, thanks for following along and take care!

Best,

Jared
 
Do you have an install tool for the balancer hub? Hammering it home can damage the thrust bearing and pulling it on with the bolt results in stripped threads in the crank.

I bought a 1’ length of 7/16-20 threaded rod and a couple lug nuts to make my own. I have an old balancer washer that fits over the OD of the hub perfectly too. Thread the rod all the way into the crank and send it home with the washer and nut.
 
Do you have an install tool for the balancer hub? Hammering it home can damage the thrust bearing and pulling it on with the bolt results in stripped threads in the crank.

I bought a 1’ length of 7/16-20 threaded rod and a couple lug nuts to make my own. I have an old balancer washer that fits over the OD of the hub perfectly too. Thread the rod all the way into the crank and send it home with the washer and nut.
I have the balancer install tool for LS engines and supposedly it is the same thread. I haven't tested it yet. I'm surprised they are the same though. I would have thought the threads in the LS cranks would be metric. If my tool won't work, I'll either go the threaded rod route or I'll buy the right tool. I won't be using a hammer. Keep the tips coming. They are appreciated.
 
I've done quite a few LT1 intake reseals over the years. Your situation is typical of what I've seen. Valve covers aren't leaking but the intake ends are.
Don't overthink setting it back on. It's pretty light so it won't get away from you.
 
I've done quite a few LT1 intake reseals over the years. Your situation is typical of what I've seen. Valve covers aren't leaking but the intake ends are.
Don't overthink setting it back on. It's pretty light so it won't get away from you.
Thanks for the advice. So I'm a dum-dum on the balancer installer. I looked up "LT1 balancer installer" and came up with several LS/LT1 tools. It only just occurred to me that they mean the latest LT1, not the one from the 90's. I looked it up and the LS/modern LT cranks have M16x2.0 threads so my LS installer won't work. I have one for a Gen I SBC, which has the same threads, so it might work.
 
Thanks for the advice. So I'm a dum-dum on the balancer installer. I looked up "LT1 balancer installer" and came up with several LS/LT1 tools. It only just occurred to me that they mean the latest LT1, not the one from the 90's. I looked it up and the LS/modern LT cranks have M16x2.0 threads so my LS installer won't work. I have one for a Gen I SBC, which has the same threads, so it might work.
Nothing like 3 completely different engines with the same designation to create a little confusion. The link below is where I got the idea to build my own. I also just realized the time between the original LT1 350 and ours is about the same as ours to today’s...... They just don’t feel that old to me!

 
Made some more progress. Went to the storage tonight and installed the intake and the valve covers......

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I hope I got the RTV right. I didn't really get any squish out. Both the factory service manual and the instructions from Fel Pro called for a 3/16" bead, so that's what I did. This is the left front corner.....

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Here's the right front.....

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And the best shot I could get in the back....

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I normally use more material but I was in read and follow all instructions mode. It's a good feeling that it's going back together.
 
Made some more progress. Went to the storage tonight and installed the intake and the valve covers......

View attachment 134785

I hope I got the RTV right. I didn't really get any squish out. Both the factory service manual and the instructions from Fel Pro called for a 3/16" bead, so that's what I did. This is the left front corner.....

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Here's the right front.....

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And the best shot I could get in the back....

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I normally use more material but I was in read and follow all instructions mode. It's a good feeling that it's going back together.
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If there's 1 thing I'm jealous off design wise on chevies, it's the ability to use rtv only on end rails. I basically have to use the end seals on a 350 Buick. I dont like the idea of nearly 3/8 of a bead of rtv.
 
I hope I got the RTV right. I didn't really get any squish out. Both the factory service manual and the instructions from Fel Pro called for a 3/16" bead, so that's what I did. This is the left front corner.....

I normally use more material but I was in read and follow all instructions mode. It's a good feeling that it's going back together.
That's because your bead was only 5/32" and not a full 3/16". I measured it. 🙂

Seriously, that looks good. You don't need a full-width coverage to do the job. Seems a bit strange without wiping off excess, but you shouldn't have any issues sending it. Trust the GM engineers when it comes to RTV sealant!! haha
 
Got some more work done on the Roadmaster done last weekend. I took Friday off and worked mainly on putting the top of the engine back together. I also replaced all three of the seals in the timing cover...

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I hope I got the seal for the water pump drive seated correctly. I've read a lot of horror stories about it. I used this tool....

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I used this combination from the plumbing isle at Home Depot for the balancer seal....

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Thanks to Driven for the warning to install the seal for the optispark dry. He was right...

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I used a 3" Schedule 40 PVC cap to install the seal for the opti. It worked only ok because of its domed shape. The steam tube was a lot of fun to reinstall, with the banjo bolts going into the back of the heads. Other than that, it all went pretty smoothly. I just cleaned as I went and tried to be particular about how it all went together.

Saturday morning I went to the storage with the plan to do the plugs and wires, at least on the driver's side bank. First, I repaired the connector for the MAP sensor. The locking tab on mine broke when I went to take it loose. To say that green connector was brittle is a vast understatement. I elected to just replace the plastic "housing" of the connector and avoid splicing in the new pigtail into my harness....

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When I moved on to the left bank plugs and wires, I started with removing the left front wheel/tire and then removed the left inner fender splash apron. I decided removing the oil cooler hoses would make access to the rear bolt for the metal "shield/bracket" for the left bank plug wires easier. I have a new oil cooler hose assembly to install anyway and I plan to replace the gasket and seal for the oil filter adapter as well since I think it is leaking there. The left bank wires aren't that much fun to work on. The five hard lines for the ABS are really in the way. After more work than I expected, I had the assembly out...

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If you look at that "bracket/shield" above, the rear bolt hole, which is behind the down portion of the exhaust manifold, is slotted. The front bolt isn't much easier to get to and it was not slotted. It was after I sicked my Dremel on it. After some cleaning, cutting all new convoluted tubing and carefully replacing/routing the wires, I was ready to go back in...

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First I gapped the new spark plugs and got them installed. It seemed like getting the wires back in was easier than removing them but it still was "fiddly" as Ed China would say. I really love this car but this LT1 is a bit harder to work on than I expected. I really wouldn't care to work on one in an F Body with less room in the front, more of the engine under the dash and with it jammed up against those strut towers. It's hard to get good pics of the wires in there, but here's what I've got...

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I think I have them in there absolutely the way they came out (as original). That was the goal.

I didn't go over there on Sunday. I stayed at the house to do laundry, do yardwork and we worked on the passenger window in Sean's Camaro. My hands honestly didn't have 9 rounds with the passenger side plugs and wires in them Sunday morning.

The plan going forward is to do the right side plugs and wires next. I've read that side is more difficult so I'm really looking forward to it. After that's done, the front of the engine can go back together. Then I have the oil filter adapter seal and gasket to do as well as install the new oil cooler hoses. I'm also going to drop the transmission pan and replace the filter and gasket since it is leaking. I will likely check the oil pan bolts to make sure they aren't loose while I have the oil filter adapter down. I also am going to replace the seal on the shifter shaft going through the transmission case. It's leaking. I'm meeting my buddy from the transmission parts house tomorrow night for dinner and he's fixing me up with the improved design seal and the filter and gasket kit. I already bought the tool that allows you to R and R the seal with the pan still on the transmission so hopefully that is an easy project.

I hope after all this I have a dry powerteam. There are a lot of places an LT1 can leak and I think mine was at least seeping from most of them. I guess, what do you expect from 23 year old rubber? Hopefully I'll get all this done and enjoy a long run of a good running leak free powerteam. It all be well worth it if I do. I expect it will run well. I can't believe how well it ran after seeing the condition of the cap and rotor, seeing that the water pump had long been leaking on the opti and seeing the rotten emissions/vacuum lines.

That's it for now friends. Hopefully I have a good update early next week. Until then, thanks for the interest and take care!

Jared
 

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