The effect of intake air temp on engine temperature.
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You chose to interpret my general sarcasm (for which I have a reputation and an impressive track record) as a personal attack, that is on you. I will not allow myself to be painted with a brush. Tone and inflection is missing from everything written, however next time I will add LOL, J/K, 😉 and a "like" - as appropriate. Keep in mind that we choose to provide advice and support to the community, and it is really much easier for me to comment on other people's builds, update my own, and play Hot Wheels with my daughters; than it is to sit here typing out lengthy responses to poorly thought out and constructed inquiries.
Maybe I need to reassess my priorities?
I will add that if you can afford to put Vintage Air in your car, you can most definitely afford an alternator upgrade and a PWM fan controller to manage the load demands (like when the A/C compressor is engaged) when the electric fan kicks on.
I'm glad you know what is important in life. Playing with your children is definitely more important than being on a Internet forum. Children help us to learn patience and hopefully how to communicate with others............ Sarcasm is not always warranted or needed to get a point across. I take everything I read on a forum at face value, you on the other hand assume that others opinions have no value or merit. You have no idea what my background is and I have no idea of yours. I'm sorry you feel that my original post was not well thought out. I spend my days at work communicating with others so excuse me if I don't take a boat load of time to construct a Post worthy of a scholar.
You assume that since I have Vintage Air in my car that I should be able to afford a higher amperage alternator and the super wiz bang controller that you refer to. Once again been there, tried that with the fans. A fancy controller isn't going to increase the performance of the fans.
A higher amperage alternator is definitely a good upgrade.
The reason I could afford to put Vintage Air in my car is because I did the work myself. I even built the A/c lines. It was actually quite economical considering the price of a new GM radial compressor along with evap coil, condenser , lines, etc.
Bottom line is I am always willing to learn new things even though I have been in this industry over 20 years now.
Assume away if you must.
You assume that since I have Vintage Air in my car that I should be able to afford a higher amperage alternator and the super wiz bang controller that you refer to. Once again been there, tried that with the fans. A fancy controller isn't going to increase the performance of the fans.
A higher amperage alternator is definitely a good upgrade.
The reason I could afford to put Vintage Air in my car is because I did the work myself. I even built the A/c lines. It was actually quite economical considering the price of a new GM radial compressor along with evap coil, condenser , lines, etc.
Bottom line is I am always willing to learn new things even though I have been in this industry over 20 years now.
Assume away if you must.
At higher speeds, a core support airdam is critical to cooling. When we first started running the 2+2 it would overheat above 125 mph because we didn't have a core support airdam, and pressure would build up behind the radiator and reduce the flow through it.
We put on a 5" deep core support air dam and never had another problem at speed, even at high rpm and sustained WOT.
At the junkyard, grand marquis/Crown Vics have good plastic core support Air dams that can be adapted to a street G-body. Ours is bent Aluminum and Conveyor belt material, but is designed to 170 mph, so its overkill for the highway
We put on a 5" deep core support air dam and never had another problem at speed, even at high rpm and sustained WOT.
At the junkyard, grand marquis/Crown Vics have good plastic core support Air dams that can be adapted to a street G-body. Ours is bent Aluminum and Conveyor belt material, but is designed to 170 mph, so its overkill for the highway
If it overheats at speed with a core support airdam in place, either the radiator, the water pump or the thermostat are not working properly.
If all three are brand new and you are driving 70mph through a 110 degree desert with the A/C on and it reads 220, then the timing in the motor is too retarded
If all three are brand new and you are driving 70mph through a 110 degree desert with the A/C on and it reads 220, then the timing in the motor is too retarded
this thread is on page 5 and I don't see any post by the op that the temperature on the gauge has been authenticated, this problem could just be in the sender or gauge
Those parts store 3 core brass rads are known as restrictive junk. Either a big two core aluminum rad with 1" tubes or a 4 core aluminum version, a member on here runs a 10 to 1 Olds 403 with a Champion 4 core and it cools fine, another hard to cool engine. I assume no under drive pulleys?
Running down the highway at 75mph, not sure a fan would have anything to do with it. I tried running a sender in the intake (small Chevy) and got erratic readings. Guess that's why temp senders were in the head from the factory. A couple things I would check is that the AC condenser is not clogged with dirt, leaves, etc. I have seen many packed with dirt. Running the garden hose through will wash it out. Also the mixture of antifreeze/water. The first car I built with a new engine, I put in all pure antifreeze. It ran hot. Local mechanic got a good laugh out of that one.
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