BUILD THREAD “The Juggernaut”

I'll be that guy....

With the exhaust as short as it is (exiting in front of the rear wheels) as well as the larger diameter it is..... Why run the cut-outs @ all?
Seems like an unnecessary addition.

Well, if I have to explain then you probably wouldn’t understand.
🤣
I mean c’mon, just picture it:
Second or third gear on the six speed, wide open throttle, close to 500 ponies and 462 cubic inches of pissed off big block Olds singing through 3” pipes off open headers?
Why not?!?!?
 
Well, if I have to explain then you probably wouldn’t understand.
🤣
I mean c’mon, just picture it:
Second or third gear on the six speed, wide open throttle, close to 500 ponies and 462 cubic inches of pissed off big block Olds singing through 3” pipes off open headers?
Why not?!?!?
jizz in my pants GIF
 
Pages back you battled with seat 'levelness', and also you moved the seat back. Damn, do I remember that pain. Of course my solution is no where near as pretty as yours, but similar in design only. 4 times I had the seat in and out tack welded to get it on the right plane (front to back) for comfort and trying to get the seat to be straight with the steering level and not be leaning to the left. But, I'm going to follow your lead and make a cleaner and lighter setup. I was proud that my factory sliders still function haha.

heads up on the conversation about the v-bands vs flange exhaust joints. - the v-bands are a large OD. The 4" I require more than 5" of space. I use them for the ease of remove and reinstall time. I can remove the exhaust and install the short pipe in less than 5 minutes (no gaskets/silicone to contend with). And I'm not attaching pics of my ugly crap on your thread for reference 😉
I mig on the v-bands. It's easy to make them look good. The only issue is stainless v-bands on to mild steel - what wire and gas to use????
 
Well, if I have to explain then you probably wouldn’t understand.
🤣
I mean c’mon, just picture it:
Second or third gear on the six speed, wide open throttle, close to 500 ponies and 462 cubic inches of pissed off big block Olds singing through 3” pipes off open headers?
Why not?!?!?
Gotcha. I prefer doing all the same antics w/o the volume @ 11.
 
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Gotcha. I prefer doing all the same antics w/o the volume @ 11.

And that’s cool too, I fully understand believe me. The older I get the less tolerance for noise I seem to have. But it’s always nice to have the option to run open headers if I want. If nothing else, it’ll be great to have to drown out the idiot tuner kid in his backfiring Honduh at the light next to you.

Also, the cutouts don’t necessarily need to be wide open when used. I plan on wiring them to a momentary toggle switch, so as long as the switch is held, they will open. But that way I will also be able to just crack them open a little bit and change the sound of the car without going full obnoxious if I want.
 
And that’s cool too, I fully understand believe me. The older I get the less tolerance for noise I seem to have. But it’s always nice to have the option to run open headers if I want. If nothing else, it’ll be great to have to drown out the idiot tuner kid in his backfiring Honduh at the light next to you.

Also, the cutouts don’t necessarily need to be wide open when used. I plan on wiring them to a momentary toggle switch, so as long as the switch is held, they will open. But that way I will also be able to just crack them open a little bit and change the sound of the car without going full obnoxious if I want.
Do you have a plan for the H bridge relay that you need to make that switch work? I looked into that for mine and it's pretty much a complicated bummer.
 
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