BUILD THREAD “The Juggernaut”

[Rktpwrd]

Many door lock or window switches will work that way too, so you could just find the ones you like, OEM or aftermarket and wire them up like a window motor.

So simple, one of those things that make you ask “why didn’t I think of that?” Thanks for that. I would assume you’d have to use the relays that the power windows use in conjunction with the switches as well though?

Do these cut out motors have end of line switching???

No they don’t Tony, if they did they’d just start to close again once they reached the end of the opening cycle. They also don’t have limit switches to kill the power to them at the end of a cycle, so it’s important not to have the switch held on for too long past fully open or closed.

Way more complicated than it needs to be.

You simply need two single pole relays, and a couple of diodes.
Hell for that matter, you could probably just use a power window switch. They operate the same exact way....

Appreciate the input Shawn. That’s what I was thinking too, seems like it’s all getting a lot more complicated than it really needs to be. I think part of it is going to depend on the type of switch that’s going to be used too.

i have the set up you posted,that switch isn't on/off/on,you can have it open a little or a lot.

Well damn. There ya go, so it looks like all this speculation has been for nothing when the switch they come with will already do what I want!
Thanks Chris.

 

[Rktpwrd]

In related news, I’ve spent a bunch more money in the last 2 days.

Did indeed pull the trigger on the QTP cutouts…

…and found and ordered a set of exhaust hangers from Scott’s Hotrods that I really liked:

After laying under the car agonizing over what I was going to do for NICE exhaust hangers this time, these are the ones I decided to go with and use. They should work absolutely perfectly in the areas they need to go, have NVH dampening (that my homemade ones didn’t have), plus I can further insulate them from the body by using some rubber between them and the underside of the floor if need be.

No word yet on when they’ll arrive, but I’m pretty much at a standstill until they get here. Guess I’ll pull the mufflers back off and clean up those internal weld marks while I’m waiting.

 

[Northernregal]

Ouch.... Those cut outs ain't cheap.....

 

[Rktpwrd]

Ouch.... Those cut outs ain't cheap.....

You ain’t kidding brother! The Doug’s ones I have weren’t cheap when I bought them a couple years back either. They’re even more now:

Can I interest you (or anyone else) in a set of quality 3” stainless steel sliding knife style electric cutouts, never used? 😉
They’re officially for sale at this point now.

 

[Rktpwrd]

It’s been a damn good couple of days.

Not only am I off on holidays this week, but I’ve been working on buttoning up a few little projects while I’m waiting for the new exhaust cutouts and billet hangers to arrive.

Started by bolting the seats back in after completing the minor floor modification…

…then moved onto removing the mufflers one by one and smoothing out the cases of the internal baffling weld marks.

Before:

After:

Much better. The aluminized coating Flowmaster applied was a real b*tch to remove, but my OCD just wouldn’t let me skip that step. Seeing them looking as good as they do now, I’m glad I put in the extra effort to remove it. The steel underneath was still mill scale and quite rough, so at least now I’m assured of a nice finish when they get ceramic coated.

Reattached them back to the head pipes, and yeah. Much better. Glad now that I went back and did it.

I picked up a set of 3 1/2” Remflex collector gaskets from the local speed shop the other day…

…and got those swapped out today for the old copper ones I accidentally rolled over a couple times with the creeper. It’s important to have all these little details addressed now to make sure the spacing of everything in the exhaust system is where it’s going to be in finished form so that the placement of the exhaust hangers will be correct.

Moving on from the exhaust system for a bit, last night I whipped up this little bracket out of some heavy gauge sheetmetal and added a couple nutserts.

This is to support the front of the E-brake splitter bracket I had mounted only to the rear crossmember for the time being. Got it placed and bolted in…

…then today I cranked up the wire speed on the glue gun and burned it in.

Not too bad if I may say myself, as I hate and don’t do very much overhead welding because I dislike it so much.

I then reinstalled the temporary driveshaft, and jacked up the rearend to the full lowered position to reaffirm to myself that I’ve got sufficient clearance to the e-brake brackets and cables.

I was not disappointed, I’ve got roughly a half inch of clearance with the 2 1/2” diameter driveshaft:

With just a little trimming of the underside of the handle bracket, I can likely increase this to around 3/4”, which means I will be able to run a 3” diameter aluminum driveshaft. Extremely pleased with that affirmation.

The new QTP exhaust cutouts are due to arrive on Friday, and the Scott’s Hotrods billet exhaust hangers on Monday. So hopefully those are on schedule, then I can get back to finishing off the exhaust system.

Regardless, it feels like so much win these past couple days.

D.

 

[Tony1968]

Watching your thread continues to give me inspiration. Excellent work 👏

 

[Rktpwrd]

Watching your thread continues to give me inspiration. Excellent work 👏

Thanks Tony, I appreciate the compliment.

 

[old80cs]

Nice work cleaning up the mufflers, Donovan, I had no idea you could clean them up so well! As aftermarket seats go those are really nice looking chairs too. Good progress!👍

 

[Rktpwrd]

Nice work cleaning up the mufflers, Donovan, I had no idea you could clean them up so well! As aftermarket seats go those are really nice looking chairs too. Good progress!👍

Thanks Mike. There is definitely a knack and technique to smoothing those out, as Streetbu Shawn said, a deft and light touch goes a long ways. And the Corbeau seats, I absolutely love them. They were definitely on the pricier side being real leather, but well worth it in my opinion. They’re not for every-body, literally, because if you’re wide through the hips they’re not going to feel comfortable. I have a relatively narrow build, so they fit me perfectly.

Thanks for commenting, it seems the cat’s got everyone’s tongue on this thread here lately.

 

[Rktpwrd]

Spent the last two days absolutely fighting with installing the ProForged tall lower ball joints in the RideTech Strong Arms.

Part of the problem was that the ball joint press kit I bought didn’t have the correct size cup and sleeves for the joints our cars use, but the other issue was the really narrow shoulder the Strong Arms have around the ball joint areas.

The passenger side I had to actually pull completely off the car and use a combination of the press kit and my Arbor press to get the old ones out and the new ones back in.

And once I had the RideTech ones out, they physically didn’t look any different than the ProForged ones. So hopefully all the effort was worth it.

What a mess. I even had to pull the wraparound part of the rear header tube off just so I could remove the lower rear control arm bolt.

Driver’s side went a little easier, I had more of an idea of what to expect, and while it still fought me, at least it was a little more manageable. I was able to do this one on the car, and good thing too. I would have had to drop the entire exhaust system and remove the header just to be able to remove the rear lower control arm bolt!

Done, and back together. Strike that one off the list, and move on. VERY glad it’s done, and not looking forward to ever having to do that again.

The QTP exhaust cutouts are due to arrive tomorrow, so looking forward to that. Only other outstanding thing on my list currently is to swap out the stock steering center link for the bumpsteer correction one. But that should be pretty easy. Unless of course, I end up having to notch the front frame crossmember horn for additional clearance.

We shall see.