BUILD THREAD “The Juggernaut”

Happy Birthday Donovan... one of these weekends I'll cruise down and have a cocktail with ya in your garage and tell tall tales
 
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Thanks for all the birthday wishes guys. It was a good one.
Happy Birthday Donovan... one of these weekends I'll cruise down and have a cocktail with ya in your garage and tell tall tales
Anytime Dana. Me casa et su casa.
I look forward to it.
 
Hey man, like what you've done with the rear spring pockets on the frame.

My questions is, is there clearance between the top of the spring pocket and the underside of the body? I thought the two pretty much touch when the body was on the frame, but you're running an airline connection through the top of the pocket and along to the centre of the frame bridge to meet up with the bulkhead fitting through the floor. Also, if you have a fault with the rear bags, you're gonna have to part out the frame and body to get to the bag mount bolts.
 
Hey man, like what you've done with the rear spring pockets on the frame.

My questions is, is there clearance between the top of the spring pocket and the underside of the body? I thought the two pretty much touch when the body was on the frame, but you're running an airline connection through the top of the pocket and along to the centre of the frame bridge to meet up with the bulkhead fitting through the floor. Also, if you have a fault with the rear bags, you're gonna have to part out the frame and body to get to the bag mount bolts.
There is and should be clearance between the top of the spring pocket and the underside of the trunk floor. If there wasn't, the two would touch and rub. All the body mounts and trunk floor cushions have been replaced with quality Prothane poly urethane body mounts ensuring the clearances are there and correct. If the clearance isn't there on your car, I would consider the possibility that your mounts are wore out and have compressed over time.
All modifications were done with consideration to future accessibility and were accounted for during multiple mock-ups. There is not only enough clearance to remove the airbag mount bolts, but the air line fitting as well.
Thanks for looking!
 
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Thanks for the reply, it certainly helps when forward planning mine set-up.

The hose/cable clamps you've used along the frame are a really neat solution, are they home-made or off-the-shelf?
 
Thanks for the reply, it certainly helps when forward planning mine set-up.

The hose/cable clamps you've used along the frame are a really neat solution, are they home-made or off-the-shelf?
Mention of the clamps was actually made in the thread. They are nylon clamps from a company called "Made For You Products" and I got them from Summit Racing. They're available in single and double combinations in many different sizes.

In addition, I should mention in reference to your previous question about clearance from the top of the spring pocket to the underside of the trunk floor, that there is just barely enough room for a 90 degree fitting only. If planning on using a straight fitting, a hole would obviously need to be drilled thru the trunk floor large enough to accommodate the O.D of the hose or tube being installed (As well as the socket to install it).
For unrelated reasons, I ended up raising the section of the trunk floor over the rearend, so now I have more than enough clearance for everything. I have not covered this in the thread yet, so stay tuned for those updates/posts coming soon.
Thanks for following along
Donovan
 
Can't wait for the pics!
 
nice....what 's that spoiler from?

The spoiler was originally from a mid 80's Pontiac Firebird. It is in fact made up of two of them.

The Firebird deck lid sits flatter than the Cutlass one causing the spoiler to not sit level when mounted to the Cutlass.

The stanchions on both spoilers were cut and additional material from the second spoiler was added to the first to increase the height slightly and make it level when mounted to the Cutlass trunk lid.

Threaded rod was cut and inserted inside the stanchions to provide alignment and strength, then the whole assembly was epoxied back together.

The outer seams where the stanchions were cut were vee grooved out and filled, sanded and finished using SMC compatible filler. From there, conventional auto body fillers and primers were used, then the entire spoiler was painted.

Thanks for looking!
Donovan
 

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